MTFCA Forum

Hi, Erik.

Because there is no wood behind the iron, this will nor work in my case. But thanks a lot for showing me. Meanwhile I decided to use a rivet nut M3, this is the best option.

Rainer

That place has extreme temperature shifts.
1967-12 001 copy.jpg
Mom at Joshua Tree, 1967.

Wow! Cool photo! Also, really nice, vivid color for a 56 year old photo.

Be thankful you are not working on an aluminum HH motor.
The pedal bosses are thicker @ the ends compared to later iron covers.
It usually takes grinding the band to get demountables to fit, if then or turn the bands around.
I learned the hard way, to remove excess material under the pedal shaft bosses, to the later iron cover profile whall the...

In my experience, the solid copper ones from Australia are the absolute best solution. I have had several issues with the steel rings sold with the copper crush rings burning thru and finding the remains of them in my mufflers. Most folks probably don't put enough miles on a car for that to happen , but that's why I started using the solid copper...

That particular horn Frank posted the link to above has a Model A mount on it.

Further to some comments I will state that locally my T block babbit jobs have included the rear main thrust surface as part of the babbit in the block. No the block surface is not tinned, it is just held in place by the “pin holes “ in the block. They have stayed in place just fine!
I am not saying it’s “better “ just that it survives OK!
We have...

This was a VERY informative and interesting discussion! Thanks to TIM, and everyone who contributed information on ordering tires from Blockley!

Number 12 the 1915 runabout is a Canadian built model T given the forked headlamps and Alta (I believe short for Alberta ?) Canada. There is no solid evidence that production USA cars in the 1915 style ever had forked headlamps, contrary to popular belief! Canadian production on the other hand used mostly fork mounted electric headlamps throughout...

Thanks I got it sorted out

Thanks. Just wasn't sure.

Rich's referenced link is golden (brass) just some pics from it
bulb horns.png
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My list of Datsun pump dislikes is mostly stoopid stuff that probably doesn’t make much of a difference. I air out most of my concerns on this not so old thread;

Love the original, promo sticks.
Knowing the exact # of gallons isnt important to me.
The stick I carry in my T's is a typical bare paint stick. Free with paint store purchases. Dont want to scar up a neat stick.
All I really need to know is if the tank is 1/4 or less when I start out.

I would highly recommend Joe Bell, in Ohio, he has done many of my friends engines and rebuild my late 1911 engine and transmission. He even ran my engine, on an engine stand, as a final check/confirmation. You will not be disappointed dealing with him. Great guy and excellent work.

I dumped AT&T after 25 years because of erratic long distance telephone service.

I know we’re ready. It’s the mark of the start of a new driving season. We’ll see you there!

Weird. I just bought a Scat crank from Summit auto. I had it in under 2 weeks. Arrived about a week ago and drop shipped directly from Scat.

Larry
I was watching for you to start reproducing the correct Hyatt type bearings please!

If the fuel line is picking up too much heat, such as from the exhaust pipe, it can cause issues on longer drives or uphill runs, especially in hot weather. A modern needle and seat in the carburetor can also cause issues. They are not designed for low-head gravity systems.

You mentioned taking your sister for a ride. I have 3 Model T's and live in the mountains. There are hills I can climb in high gear, but with an extra passenger, I have to shift down. You will notice that the pulling power decreases with the added weight. But that should not cause the engine to surge.
Norm

Gail Rodda's T Parts Identification books pictures the 13-14 dash to bracket bolts, gives dimensions as: Step bolt, 5/16 x 18thrd., large head diameter of 13/16 . The hex nut used are 5/16 x 18 thrd. and 1/4 (.250') height, with dia. across the flats measure of 1/2 (.500 ).

Restoration Supply offers a close match to the hex nut, Grade 5, #NUT536,...

Well, at least it's not demolished yet, shame to see it boarded up...

Thank you Allan B! When I first ran through these photos I suspected that one was English. I have seen a few pictures of similar ones, and wondered about the wire wheels.
I always enjoy your input!

The adjustment screw is in the centre of the diaphragm, deep in the trumpet. I made a tool to do the adjustment , consisting of a socket wrench welded to a steel tube, and a T handled screwdriver with long shaft to drop down the tube.

Allan from down under.

Here are some measurements pictures from this link
372298.jpg
372299.jpg
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from another link
372853.jpg

Contact me, I will have some good used rims available shortly- no junk.
dmcgears@yahoo.com or PM...................... You will have to pay shipping from Calif, but...........

Let us know, did you get your charging problem reaired?

To add to what George posted above, On our MTFCA National Tour in June, 2022, every goody bag got at least 1gs stick, and some got two of them since we had a few extras. Also, there were gas stations close by in both directions from the host motel. No excuses for running out of gas!

Keith

Thanks Guys.
I’ll have to find some “Blue Gas”
Cheers Alan

Maybe once pressed into the driven plate it would tighten up and need reaming, but as it is it feels loose.

Right. How it fits before installation is kind of immaterial. Install it and see what you've got. If it's still not right, push it out again and get a bushing with a smaller ID, then install it and bore it to size.

The shipping box uses US Military article format.
There is a National Stock Number (NSN) at top and a US Army Signal Corps drawing number.
Obviously it is a igniter of some type. Two possible military applications are a jet engine test stand or flame thrower ignition.
Ron Patterson

When I googled the name something came up about a military...

Terry,,

Did you read the posting just above yours? He may be more focused on his health right now.

I guess if anyone really wants to know, give Tom a phone call. His number is in the classified ad, linked above in Kevin's posting.

Steve, Henry built a few million Ts without any flaps. I believe he did include a narrow rubber rim strip in the wire wheels, likely to prevent welding flashes from puncturing the tubes. With used clincher rims of today, there s a chance of rust flakes doing the same thing. With the exception of the excellent set of rims on Henrietta, I have all...

As Dan said, the wide drum and the driven plate are drop in fit. No alterations needed. Wanting to use a wide band on that drum leads to multiple changes.
Using a wide drum on an earlier transmission is a good idea. Finding an early drum and a matching driven plate is difficult. Mating an early drum to another driven plate will often lead to...

Bill was a great man and taught me a lot in a very short time. The most valuable lesson he taught me was to appreciate life at 25 MPH. All to often we take things for granted and miss some of the most important things that pass us right by. I met Bill on this forum and later on in person at a local event. I had owned my car for about a year but...

You are missing the one that does the brake drum and driven plate all in one.

Yes,

This tour and the Nebraska tour and the National tour are all the same week.

The International Tour is July 16-21 in Baraboo, WI

Que sera sera

Hello & Thanks Alan,there seemed to be a lot of wear in the clamp side of the casting where the tube buts up against it & i wanted to make sure the tube was the right length. I borrowed a shaft from Andrew Web & i wanted to be sure of the sizes before i cut anything as i only have one of each
cheers Warwick.

Chaps, Bendigo is the home of our best swapmeet. How it got into the title I don't know. I can't see US spellcheck doing it????? Perhaps it was predictive text at work.

The cover has the remains of the zinc plating where it is not rusty. Going on the photos, I am inclined to think it is the real deal.

Allan from down under.

It turns out that I do have one of each but did not know that until today. I just went out to look at both pans and sure enough 3 on one and 4 on the other. Thanks for that. Still new but learning.

Bill

That is a valve exerciser . It is used to cycle (open and close) water valves to ensure the valves will operate properly when needed. We had a modern hand held model to cycle all of the fire water valves twice a year to keep them operable and find any that had froze from rusting and needed to be replaced. Here's a link to modern ones:

Cheers,

It's a painting!

This is Not A Ford
By that famous artist, Ford Maddox Ford.

There are some pictures here that might help.

Here is a picture of my grandfather in about 1928 at Lake Arrowhead. The Model T is in the picture and notice how he was dressed? I have the tent in the loft of my garage!
Norm G.S.K. Lake Arrowhead.jpg

Footnote: Many people are unaware that Joe had a lengthy stint in the mid 1920s in the Ford factories, cutting out floorboards from packing crates.
No doubt the cause of his addiction to alcohol! jb

I have a 1927 frame and it does not have a hole at that location. I was concerned about it, but found that it would be difficult to put a bolt there, and that it would crowd the radiator stud mount. There is a bolt just above that location that connects the forward flange of the fender bracket to the extended mounting flange on the frame, which...

In a previous discussion of this topic, someone mentioned using a screw-holding screwdriver for the task, along with starting one screw and slotting the corresponding hole in the cover, all excellent ideas in my view. jb

Try a bit of heat to release the epoxy. No doubt was attempting to cure the infamous cam bearing knock…

So that’s where all the tapered leaf front springs are.

I use Craig's technique with one addition. I cut a backing piece of rubber from an old inner tube to back the inside plate. That way very liitle tension is needed on the nuts, and the load is more evenly distributed on the fins while cutting down on vibration. The same could be done behnd the emblem on the front of the core.

Allan from down under.

My father ran one for many years on his 1914 Touring. I still have it. He bought the car barnfresh with it already installed, and saw no issue with it. It was a gimmicky carb designed to save gas. We attended many a tour with it.

Thanks fellas. I have a 23 pickup that is loaded with patina. I'm doing my best not to add anything too fancy or shiny. I suppose I will test my fabrication skills and make the bracket.

That was a nice short video. Did he refer to them as an A early on? Also, did I see some right-hand drives coming out of the plant?

Hi Ron,

After you move the gas tank and the seat riser rearward,
to give you more legroom, it is likely that the rubber floor mat (touring and runabout) will not be long enough to reach the seat riser.
You will probably need a custom made floor mat. After all of the time, effort, and expense to reconstruct the interior of the car, a proper...

Wow, is that the same coupe that was on a cover photo of a past Vintage Ford magazine ????

Don't think it was, but it did win Best of Show for its previous owner at his first car show. We as well as him of course were thrilled for it. Due to the poor guys health issues he didn't get many miles on it.

And yeh it has to be some aftermarket...

Thanks all for the quick answers.

Pierre; If that's a picture of your needle, it's way too rough to seal.
Since the picture, I had the tip lapped and the leakage reduced drastically. I will continue, work on the seat, and give the little tap suggested.

Thanks Duane for the picture. If I go the viton tip route, I will certainly make a new...

I went back to the instructions and verified that I installed everything correctly and I did....
I tried flipping over bracket 549E per Allan's suggestion and the rods seem to clear everything and probably will not rattle anymore. I will need to adjust the brakes a little and do some real life driving to see how well this works. Will post results...

Ok, 36, or 37 sounds right. I drove that car too, just not above 45 mph. Nice car.

I've not had a problem finding originals. Why bother with a repro?

Owner has made many ‘updates’. Electric headlights, later (‘15-‘16) rear fenders and he doesn’t need any old fashioned kerosene cowl lamps 😜

It also has shocks, both front and rear. I hope that's his mom, and not his wife...

Good information from everyone, thanks!

The Ash wire wheels are a good start at making the car stable at higher speeds… but I’m afraid with just a low head for speed equipment yur gonna need to stick with the trailer😉

Was missing one hubcap. Found two Ash wheels/one cap on TBay. Shipping from Murdo SD cost me $50+. One year later I moved to Custer SD. Oh well. Still $ well spent.

Very nice !!👌 The maroon paint and yellow wheels w/ whitewalls even caused the garage to be less cluttered 😜

If you need TT parts, let me know. I have a nice frame. I will also have a pair of snowmobile skis.

Snowmobile progression from 20/30’s to the 60’s.

Good job!
I dig the simplicity.

What a beautiful job! I love the paint colour. You should be proud of it. Except for the plastic thingy on the firewall. ;)

Allan from down under.

Using a good coat of flat black spray as recommended is as good or better than Ford used at the factory. Longevity is in the hardwood used I think.

Compression test. Gives you a great report on the engines condition. Do a dry then a wet.

Fine tune your ignition with properly tuned coil units and a reliable timer.

Good, simple, sound advice to insure optimal Model T engine performance. While the cylinder compression test follows is a well defined standard process using a standard gauge to...

Nothing gets done without deadlines!

I have found that I do some of my best work after procrastinating and pulling an all-nighter, my mind is very focused on the task at hand.

I have 3 ModelT's. One has wood bands and they have been there 30 years. The other two have Kevlar. with Kevlar you need to be very careful that the ramps on the pedals are good so that when in neutral the bands are free of the drums. Otherwise you have to tighten them too much to get them to stop the drums and when in neutrl or high the bands...

Paul, if you have a local sign shop, consult with them. If there's a mechanic there over 60 he can probably give you some ideas.

Radiator suppert bracket foe me too. These are cast iron, and need thorough tinning when installing them. The threads can pull in them if the locknut is omitted when fitting the rod.

Allan from down under.

Oh gosh, I know what it represents. I watched that movie when I was younger and it leaves an impression that isn't funny.
That's why I called it twisted humor. So why did you show it? ;) Now I'm pullin' your chain. :lol:

The bushing spinning in the gear, use a punch to knurl the outside of the bushing then press it back in with a bit of bearing and sleeve retainer.
Just make sure the inside is still ok for running on the pin.

The combination of Furniture Sales and Undertaking was actually a pretty common business plan. In researching the aftermath of shipwrecks on the Great Lakes I've come across that several times.

deleted, he is putting us on or possible scam.

It worked. It loaded ! We enjoy your comments :D

Ron -- I bought one of those horns from John Regan a few years ago when he still had Fun Projects. It was John who made the re-pop horns. It was a high-quality product (as was everything John made), and I was quite satisfied with it.

I just happened to be reading a copy of February 1913 Ford times magazine and found this on the back cover. It appeared to be somewhat perplexing in today’s world, so I posted it for other’s enjoyment, and comments!

There are a few different styles out there:

And they still keep showing up!

Brad