MTFCA Forum

Dang! That is a big bell over the radiator on that shriner car!

Weather looks good for the SMTC Reliability Run in Laughlin.
Craig.

Looking at the photo closer, it's the sleeve that has the lip, not the tube. I agree its due to a bent axle housing. A very common condition. Most all rear end housings I see are bent. That doesn't seem to affect drivability unless the bend is extreme. Most folks replace the sleeve and are done with it. There are a number of threads on...

I had one also like Steve and drilled out the dimple and it has worked just fine. It is tough metal, get a good drill bit, rotate slow and lots of cutting oil. That spring was better than the Ford original. I also bought a new tapered front spring last year for a nother car and the taper is a joke. Drill out the old spring and you will have a good...

One thing few folks know about Ruckstells, is when Eaton took over production from Hall Scott, they changed the design of the patent plate, to the clipped corner design which some people think is the 1926-7 design. Yes, it is, but it is really the Eaton design, and they made small drum models too with the clipped patent plate. I have one of those...

It’s interesting about the pitman arms. The suppliers sell arm # 3547 which according to them fits 09-27. Are they aware there some year differences? Or is the difference not enough to cause any issues? But for some it can be? Maybe some of the tie rods were changed?

I like Johns’s assessment of driving his T with the “less reliable” things such as 6 v, Scandinavia bands and etc. And the newer versions too!? I read some of these posts about that and other less reliable parts and you’d think they aren’t any good. It all comes down to how you drive and how you treat the car in my book. And yes the Kevlar bands...

I believe so - I used it as a template to make this one:

Is it a 17 wheel ?

Tim, Neal and Mark,
Thanks so much for the positive comments. I'm glad you are happy with your speedometers.
Russ Furstnow

Totally related if you ask me! Thanks for the extra info.

William,

The gas headlamps and gas (acetylene) generator were accessories on the Fords back then. It wasn't too long until Ford started selling all cars fully equipped (very early 1911 the Town Car was listed without headlamps and then soon after with headlamps.)

From the 1908 Ford Catalog posted at:

For the 1908 Model N Runabout: Price Model...

Sending you a PM with Patricks contact information. Thank you very much.

I always drive with my headlights on.
Same here. When the engine is running the headlights are on. And no, mag lights don't burn out quickly, which you might expect from reading about them.

I recently ran a want ad for a part on HCCA. My cell phone number was in the ad because it is in my profile there. It thus appeared in the ad automatically (I will be taking it off the profile before I run an ad there again). The four people who texted me in response to my ad were all scammers. A google search of phone numbers or of the address...

Fuel lines need to be kept away from heat. Any upward arching bends that could trap bubbles should be avoided. Even small dents or any other added restriction can cause fuel delivery problems, especially in hot weather or in high alitude operation. Always check that the gas cap vent is clear if fuel delivery problems are encountered. Carburetor...

For Tom,

I always enjoy your photos, thank you for posting them!

For Leo,

Yes, back in the 1920s the US military was trying to figure out what the automobiles & trucks could do and which was better the horse or the car. .

Those photos show one of the “Aberdeen Cross-Country Fords . The US Army tested them back in the 1920s. And yes they have...

Jim, your uncle is Jack Nicholson ????😜😂

Now George ….
We have been thru this already ….
I can’t comment ( publicly ) on “ The Family “ ….

FJ

68249A0B-C70C-4FB9-840A-EA55032D159B.jpeg

Hi Mike,
The last set I seen was all straight pieces.
Craig.

Thanks for all the information! The folks on here never let me down! Better than Google! Happy Thanksgiving to all of you and yours!
Mike Peternell

Model T in Newland Parade.jpg To add to the 26-27 discussions attached is a photo of a T Runabout taken in 1972 at the parade in Newland NC - that was the last year it was registered - it then sat on blocks in Mr Buchanan's (second owner) garage for 41 years before I bought it in September 2013 - looks just like it did then except for cleanup, new...

in one of the sales brochures, Snowmobile referred to the material the belts were made of as ''Balaka''. I do not know if that is a special material, a type of heavy canvas or a name Virgil White made up for advertising purposes.

Think Balaka is a typo and likely should be Balata
Balata transmission belting is tough, durable, robust belt made...

Wayne, Interesting those headlights on that '12. Thanks again Tom for another great batch of pictures!

Old car clubs in the area may know something about the car since it was fairly well known.
Check with them but it’s been nearly 40+ years.

Thanks!!! I like how the bottom of the wood attaches. Mine is cut at angles on both ends.

Dan, those in your link look very nice in my display cabinet!

thank you :)

Running the car with the side bolts overtightened can lead to broken pan arms.

Here’s a question? Did Ford use Ames horns or were they an aftermarket or used on a similar car. Just wondering!

Even though Ford Model T's could have the starter, generator, and battery in the electrical system, starting with the 1919 models, they did not start putting battery horns in Model T's until sometime in 1922. The battery horn...

When you stuff rags in the transmission to catch things that might be dropped, count them going in and coming out. :)

I saw this thread in Fordbarn today saying Cartouche is gone...
It seems that LeBaron Bonney is the outfit that went belly-up, and in bankruptcy was bought by Eklers. Ecklers in turn has been bought by an even bigger company, Turn5, Inc. Meanwhile, Cartouche is in Lockport, the home of Mac's, and is owned by Mac's/Ecklers/Turn5.

Some people...

Just FYI, trivia and useless information. The Speedway shocks are a present day reproduction of the friction shocks make by Ansen Equipment back in the '50s -'60s.

I have made a pending purchase of a carbide generator and am no longer looking for one.
fredserfass12

Here's another one. I forgot how nice these turned out!

Absolutely love those bucket seats!!!! J Burns79se

Looks like these folks could help you out...

Do the earlier coil boxes have the thin sheet metal strip that keeps the coil box from spreading out? It goes between the two center coils. Even if you have the lid on the box that strip helps hold the coils in pretty tight. Over time the strip was removed and forgotten about on lots of coil boxes you find at swap meets.

As I recall, it was often recommended to replace spark plugs at 10,000 miles well into the modern era. A T engine with the ignition system in good condition is less demanding on the spark plugs than later engines with higher compression. I believe a T engine would do best with a gap around .030 to .032, but if you start on magneto, .025 to .028 is...

Richard, your Dad's hammer shows the typical deterioration of the leather handles. As they dry out, the leather shrinks, the segments get loose and the handle diameter shrinks too. I guess frequent applications of leather dressing would keep the handle in better order, but It doesn't usually happen. Tradesmen just keep on with the job.

Allan from...

I won't get into the details but it appears to be an early 1918 that has been dolled-up to look like a 1916.

Mr. Smith.
It depends on which version of Rocky Mountain brakes you refer to. I have a set on my first T which are called AC brakes. I bought those new about 1990. The Rocky Mountain Brakes you can buy from Temecula are identical except they have printed Rocky Mountain. I have been told that the earlier Rocky Mountain Brakes were different from...

Thanks Dan

That’s a T parts diggers paradise! Would love to take my time and go through it. Neat.

I oiled the hinges last night then this morning I turned up driver to fit the inside and outside of the central rod then drove it right out. I wiped the inside of the hinges out then drove the new one in. Glad it was not harder.

First of all, I believe very little of what I read on this forum! Try reading the Ford Service book. As I recall, it says to wipe a thin coat of oil on each leaf, and then coat that with powered graphite. Lately I've been using slip plate.

your hole spacing appears the same as mine, and the 2nd from left appears the correct size as original. On mine, that hole is not used as it is in the area where the battery cover is located and the lip supports the cover but the cover is not secured to the lip.

I suspect that hole on yours is not wallowed out because of the same reason.

Thank you!

Noel C, The new place may in many ways be better and more efficient than the old place? But the old place is almost true model T history! Maybe you should enshrine the box?

I wonder if the original post referring to shims is not about a thin piece of timber between the pan ear and the top of the frame rail? If this is the case, it is not usual practice. However, I have used 1/4 insertion rubber in the same place as a vibration dampener.

Allan from down under.

Didn't need to - F.O Big Guy !

...in search for good Hyatt's to use I have found several Hyatt's broken into pieces.
I've found some like that and some like new. I suppose it's because some have been used a lot more than others. I don't think Ive driven more than ten thousand miles yet, so I don't know how long they last.

If kept lubed, their life can be forever. Certainly...

Reference the link for the proper diagram and save it for future reference.
The ignition switch is actually two switches in one.
The key determines the source of power, inner ring, MAG OFF BAT. The handle operates the outer ring for lighting DIM (low headlight filament & tail light) ON (high headlight filament & tail light). The ammeter is an...

Miles

Looks great. I just screwed in a couple short lengths of 2x4 to use as stop blocks. Works great and removable if needed. Nothing fancy.

Try Northern Tool or NAPA.

This earlier post may give you some basic ideas for removing Model T closed car glass removal. Good luck! it’s going take some gentle persuasion using a thin dry wall knife. There are other old car glass removal videos on the internet. Just type in Model T Coupe glass repair or removal as a general search on google and it will show some info and...

Model T.jpg

I know this a bit far past Halloween, but I don't get on here much, so I thought I'd add my Hallow's nights worth too.

I park my car out on the driveway every Samhain (Gaelic word and pronounced Sow-Wynn) Halloween and invite everybody who comes by (kids included) the opportunity to sit up there with Mr. Bones and get their...

The main concern with those gears is broken or badly chipped teeth and those teeth are all there.

While there may be a hum associated with the higher speeds, it would not wear beyond use in 25,000 miles.

Chaffins would not sell a part that was not any good or even marginal, and they have certainly been in busies long enough to know a bad part.

Thanks, guys!

Pat,

Voltage and current are two separate things, thus a higher voltage will not 'push more current'.

However a higher voltage at the same current will ultimately deliver more power , or conversely a higher voltage will deliver the same power at a lower current. This is why a higher voltage is preferable for systems that have components only...

I certainly hope the best for Mr. Leno's recovery from that experience. We all have come close to disaster before if we have worked on cars much.
This is that particular car when Mr. Wiliams owned it. It shows the fuel nozzle and induction tube at that time.
07Wht30hp.jpg
Mr. Hemple restored the car and I saw it a few times when he was restoring...

By the way, the Model A Ford vendors sell a bridge washer with the proper dimpling to clamp the rubber tube. It is much wider than a typical Model T bridge washer, but can be cut down to the proper size and shape with a cutoff wheel in a dremel tool. Just be sure to deburr all of the cut edges so that they can't cut the tube. :)

As far as using the fender irons from 17-25 the height is the same except for the details. In fact you can use the earlier low cowl fenders on the late high cowl 24-25 cars also. They are a direct interchange except for some detail differences on the fenders. Over time people would get a replacement/s that would fit their cars between 17-25....

Thanks Scott, will let you know how I make out.

Neal

what a nice looking car!

and congratulations on this milestone with the state bureaucracy

With the exchange rate constantly fluctuating, and not knowing when it will be applied to your order, it's impossible to know exactly what the real cost will be. Figuring the £149 price between the lowest point and the highest point on the monthly graph above I get a difference of $8.94 per tyre, a low of $166.88 and a high of $175.82. While the...

Ours here in San Jose CA. is also on Friday, Veterans Day, as it should be.

I understand the sentiment, but the parade in St. Louis is always the Saturday before the 11th. The reasoning, I am sure, is that more people can (and therefore will) go downtown to watch a parade on a Saturday than can (or will) turn out on a work day. Even then, the...

Band wrench, oil rocker arm pad (each morning), small can of nuts, bolts, cotterkeys, wire, duct tape, electrical tape etc.
Other thoughts hand cleaner, rags, bars leak, CRC.

The bigger the negative, the more positive the results. Yes, a clumsy phrase but you get the idea. I fooled around with black and white 35 mm in the darkroom years ago. Got some nice prints so long as I didn’t go too big. Beautiful and sharp photos in your post. Gerrit

Two tools have T numbers: T 2839 and T5893. There is also 9N 17014 which is likely a tractor tool.

T2839 is the wire wheel lug wrench. You could also use 5Z-161. They are both T shaped wrenches.
T5893 is the wrench for the spark plug and the cylinder hesd cap screws.
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It's Custom Classic that purports to fit 30 x 3, 30 x 3½, and 31 x 4. Looking at tubes on the shelf in my shop I find there's also one 30 x 3½ branded Universal, with no country of origin evident, and another 30 x 3½ unbranded, also with no country shown.

That John and I have had exactly the same experiences with opposite brands suggests that...

Looks like a good repair, Jim. Puts the load through the welds in shear rather than in bending. That's as good as possible given the all-aluminum construction.

I'd still keep the joint on my inspection list, but I'm confident that it will significantly outlast the original design. And the welds themselves appear to be good quality.

Dick

Isn't it simply a 'winter' fan designed to reduce cooling by 25% whilst providing vibratory enhancement of dynamic traction on snow and ice? Nothing sinister in that. jb

There is nothing puzzling about this item I have reported what it is. It is a standared Model T hub cap. It has a machined ring threaded in. A layer of solder was apllied to hold it i n. That what it is, nothing moire or less. No puzzles at all. Just hard facts.

I'd love to have a '66 Galaxie 500 coupe with a 390 and a 4-speed, black with red leather interior... 3.73 posi... police package chassis.... of course, I'd settle for a convertible.

Marvel Mystery Oil. There is none finer.

I had the same experience using the 50/50 mixture. tried the puller without success but putting a few drops on for several days came right off.

Idaho no longer recognizes the motor number as the vin number. They like to scrape, use fluid and search the frame for a number. I get dirty looks when I tell them there isn't one. They have their own metallic red tag they rivet to a body panel. They put mine below the Ford tag for my Rusty Coupe. 4 drive in rivets are hammered in but the hole...

Ford quit making Model T cars after 1925. :lol:

Do you know the history of the block?
Was it involved in a fire? That will cause a twist. Just a possible answer to your problem.

In motion it is to the front so that is where I added the extra thrust surface.

Holyoke Township (note the spelling).

That would be it!
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Thanks to all of you for your expertise, it is greatly appreciated. You know, if I could locate those rear fender irons such as are on that Volo car, I might still go the flat-top fender route. (Maybe) But for now, looks like I am going to use the Torpedo style fenders.