MTFCA Forum

I’ll bet there are MTFCA members over there and also use this site.
Yes, there are. I follow two groups, The Model T Ford Club of Facebook , and Model T Ford Owners . There's also an MTFCI page, and pages for some of the regional clubs. Some of the forum regulars are in the FB groups too, and we often steer the new folks here. And yes, there are...

Good job.
Here's a hint. Check the diameter of the clutch hub in 6 places. Sometimes, because of the tight fit on the center shaft, the edges will taco out of round, from a previous pull, enough for the clutches to go in tight.

The brackets being forged steel, used ones could be re-shaped to restore the original shape and function. I'm pretty sure the stay rods were intended to be under tension.

I grew up in the Duke City, just came across this old photo of a horse drawn wagon Bryant Co. some Model T's ...

I am not sure if those cars survived, but I am sure that the horse is a live!

On the 8th photo...
Looks like 1912 step side body with straight top fore-doors, however the car has 2-piece dash with equal halves windshield. That's a seldom seen combination.

Neal, I'm glad you got your fenders beat back straight!

: ^ )

Keith

Thank you to all that responded. I do greatly appreciate it

Norman K, I was wondering that same thing about that TT.

Before I let the Chinese get it, I'd make chisels or punches or pole shoe bits or whatever out of it... or clean it up and hang it up for a dinner bell, or just hang it on the wall to look at. Many years ago, me and another fool agreed to tear down an old commercial building in exchange for a 1952 Cadillac convertible. It turned out to be quite a...

Did the riveted joint fail, or did the shank break off the assembley?

The shank broke off.

Hey there Constantine! Now, THAT is funny!
I always love to hear about your adventures!
Get out there and enjoy the world! But, please do be safe. Things are getting crazy in too many places.

I'd want to prevent the fenders from cracking.

Dang, I knew I should have headed home, while I had it loaded on the trailer!!!
Congratulations!
K

Check out this earlier post about top installation. There are several posted on the sequence and details of how to do it.

Go over this post carefully and you’ll do it right AND in the correct sequence.

Old and young really had fun with the candy dispenser. Many thought cranking it actually had something to do with the candy coming out :D Of course it was me tossing candy down the tube.

One father was telling his kids about how cars were so much better back then, “You just had to crank them up.” He went on to say, “Now we have electric cars...”...

A double Apco-style joint at the pitman arm would be ideal. It would require a special drag link with a socket on one end for a spring and cup, and use the Apco cap, spring, and cup on the other side of the ball. That would allow some limited shock absorption in both directions while providing automatic wear take up and improved grease capacity....

Archives comes up with saying No Records , for the time frame I've been searching.

Maybe records from that era haven't been digitised (you may need to physically go to where the records are kept...Canberra?), or who knows maybe these records no longer don't exist?

Lucky Lindy had that? Very nice and too much fun!
Twenty three skidoo!

Thank you, Steve and Corey!

The Vaporizer is undergoing reassembly now. I will not be able to try it out until November 13th. So then I guess I will have an answer on the Vaporizer.

I will start looking for a Holley NH. What is a decent price to pay for a restorable unit?

As Mark eluded to, see just how much the throw-out shaft moves laterally - I usually grab a large adjustable wrench and bend the throw-out arm w/bolt to align better with the ramp on the H.B. shaft.

Running rich; Look for vacuum leaks or the idle circuit is plugged in the carburetor.

John: Thanks for posting this. As a Wisconsin native, the subject matter is especially interesting.

It's worth looking at other photographs in that original link. There are several more photos of the cars you show, and one of the original photo captions wrongly identifies one of the larger cars as 'a Ford Model T'. I also believe the statement...

Another thing to consider is the location of the gas tank. All but the last two years had the tank under the front or back seat. If the gas is less than one half tank, maybe even higher on a very steep grade, the engine will kill and you will be rolling backwards. Some of the auxiliary brakes work well going forward, but not very well backward....

I'd want to see if any other Velie parts could be found wherever that headlight turned up.

Very doubtful that they would have been for a model T. Too light, Might fit a front spindle? But doesn't look likely? No way for them to fit rear hubs.
Cyclecars had a short popularity in the US. Basically about 1912 to 1915. Their popularity in Britain and Europe lasted for decades! That in a large part due to the horsepower taxes in most of...

Hi Dan,
thanks a lot, that helps. I'll try it - pulling up through the channel!
And the lined side of the seal looks to the back of the car.
Great, thanks.
Bernhard

The measurement from the center of the bottom screw hole on the mirror to the bottom of the steel edge is 1.75 inches on my 1927 coupe.

Thank you for your replies. Looks like I need to find the bracket for my car.

Stephen

Check out Blacksmith Bolt as well. I use them for proper milled wood screws in my pump organ repairs.

This is a picture of old and worn linings.. any similarities with your transmission? ...... Good suggestion John !

Harry-its the volume of a head gasket, which is not a cylinder, as you have to include the valve area as well. Art- its been several years, but I recall that my volume was an actual measured volume using a flat plate and a pipette.

Getty images calls it a 1909. I see no reason to disagree. I only see one lever but....
Getty.jpg

Looking great! Thanks for the reply and progress photos.

Thanks, I was in the wrong web site, it is a 34 v8, same as model A I assume.

Just checked my Victor Page book, yes, they are the same. I forgot, you also need to take the speedometer drive off first.
Was the other site Fordbarn.com? If not, suggest signing up there too. Pretty good replies and active web site.

I keep the exhaust wrench in my car as well. I have had that pipe clamp come off and glad I had the wrench.

……………………………

Actually yes. But you have to do some homework! I’ve now lost the links as my custom stamp drawers are ‘full’

Go on Google and just search rubber stamp and a few clicks later you’ll find a site or two that will allow uploading you own image!

Then you find a picture edit software…it’s standard avail in Windows pre 10, and you can modify that...

Dave : Here are some pics of the two W-S carb I have, both with the enrichening valve and showing the heat stove I made from copper pipe.It works great but gets really hot and tarnishes quickly.

Now added to my dash bracket.

The 160 I just bought at Russ’s suggestion has PLASTIC dials. Woo Hoo!

My Kalamazoo truck frame had a 2 foot drive line extentions easily modified for auxs trans
Neat conversion
The drive tube extention had a squared saft and collars that slipped on to run in bearings
Adding 2 feet+ to a TT mske big truck

Thank you for the link! I searched the forum before posting my question, because I inevitably discover that anything that occurs to me has already been discussed. But in this case I could not find anything... until now!

From a 1979 issue of the Japanese magazine
“Car Graphic”.

The folks that produce them were in charge of the MTFCI summer tour for 2022, quite a time consuming project. I can understand why they would be behind in their orders. Give them a call, they are good people.

Yeah, there’s the smaller automobile version. Thanks Rich! I’m hoping someone has a motorcycle version on the shelf somewhere.

One size fits most. RALOL

Damn it. Just missed it

I wonder if this company could be contacted for the earlier Model T ammeter?

But you have to have enough dough ! :lol:

Actually cooked dough… I got lost watching videos on YouTube last night and there are dozens showing how to remove a blind bearing with bread. Fascinating.

Speaking strictly Model years; 1918-22 roadsters used the same top sockets. 1923-25 are interchangeable. Then ‘26-‘27 are same.

Back cover

661F8569-43D2-4D6D-97D5-883372A86B02.jpeg

…………………………………

Hey there Dan H! How are the Stanleys coming along?

John, I tried the way shown in the photos, once and only once. Getting it onto its snout was not bad, it was the setting it down that was the issue. My back did not like that at all!

…………………………………

. . . Too old and tired to crawl under the car before and after driving . . .

It's a rude awakening among the kids I play with as we come to learn there's a minimum level of agility that's necessary in order to drive and maintain a Model T. I suppose at some point we'll all have to hang up our spurs . . . ?

As for the saddle horse, I got him...

The magnets will never be any stronger than when first charged. Over time, with use, they will slowly weaken, due to vibration, heat cycling, and perhaps other factors. Bearing thrust faces will wear. The stronger the magnets are initially, the longer they can be expected to provide good service, and the more reliably the car will start under...

What Year Was This Taken? I would say 1914 or so. The shiny paint suggests the cars are new. Acetylene lights with brass trim would be '13 or '14 on a Ford. Electric lights would be likely in 1915.

I noticed that, Allan. I don’t know if late felloes were designed to universally accept both footed and non-footed lugs, or if those were modified. I also don’t know if those steel spoke wheels just happen to use Kelsey 188 felloes or if those are fully Kelsey wheels. Is the 188 rim made for the 188-felloed steel spoke wheel? If so, why the Ford...

Shannon,

I believe Adrian did that above at 11:22 last Tuesday....

George, sorry I wasn't clear. I was meaning the additional material from Stan Howe (if it is not copywrited).

Thank you very much for all of the input, I will be checking it for any problems and maybe have it magna fluxed to be sure. Cleaned and roto peened.
Regards to all. Jim

Taa, if you use the Dill valve/dust covers shown, there is no need to replace the rubber stem!

Allan from down under.

I had one pull a similar stunt on me once. It was the mag post grounding out internally. You’ll need to remove it completely from the hogshead to check it. Check for continuity between the post to the main body of the pickup.

Thanks for the replies! Here is a pic of the one that I have in open position. Looking at T open cars in the old photos that get posted on the forum it seems about half had them and the rest didn’t. The restored T’s are about the same way. As stated the 21 Touring I restored had them on it.

I’m going to list the one I have in the classifieds and...

Like the hat Dean.

Bob

Would guess that 1903 pliers is a later one, after 1923, and since it has script too. The Record of Change on the pliers is 3 pages, the later page mentions June 1, 1922 to a new alternate style. These parts were made by various suppliers.

The Record notes on Dec 12, 1914 to Specify a trademark to be placed in this part, indicating by arrow...

Unfortunately the Model A was tucked away in
a dark corner when I visited.

For a retired man - David stays pretty busy.
I was there with my sound engineer Mike
about four hours & that was all the time
David could spare that day ….

FJ

I think they are oxen 🐂

Thanks all!

I do not think the T was hit by a train or any thing. Ts were often just left where they stopped running. Others would remove parts as needed. I have seen other photos of similar situations. The old story was that if you needed a part for your T, just walk down the road a ways.

So true. My uncle who was born in 1918, told me his first car he put...

I still have those defective cores. Being that they're manufactured as one piece sealed units there has to be a break in between the top terminal and the center contact .

I guess that is the only thing it could be , short of some impurity in the metal having to much resistance ....that is a strange one .

They also make Styptic powder. I do not know which works better. Some people use cornstarch, especially for over trimming of your dog's nails.

Magneto battery charger, I use 2 on my 16's, Bittner made a 6v and a 12v and have worked for me for many years with no issues.

Here is an original with the flat bezel and the box, which says on the side that it is for the 1926-‘27 Model T and Model A. Jim Patrick

682834BC-CBE2-4D82-90F2-9F7EF64700E0.jpeg 8BA8151E-D1FA-4186-9CD3-88CE6769C1AE.jpeg CCBC429D-6084-420A-B0B7-EB71207A8EA0.jpeg F3C187C0-6B62-4012-8869-D63DD3386F02.jpeg D7EFF561-E96D-4A3D-A447-C6EB16BC346E.jpeg

Thanks for the info

That cam gear makes the engine a little bit more peppier.

John Brown 19's, maybe a 1912 Torpedo.
Looks like 1917 Alberta plates.
What a load!

You do not have to take the top down to put it in the garage. Just remove the two straps in the front. The top will drop down enough for you to get under the door. Put the car away, and put the top back up.

Norm is correct. You risk scratching the paint when you do it by yourself. It is not easy. I have put the top up from outside the car and I...

Taking Philip's information I looked it up...there are actually TWO kits (at least) that are labeled small engine ...of the two, Neway LG2010 Valve Seat Cutter Kit | Small Engine | Stens 750-289 | Rotary 1741 appears to be one that would work. The other kit lacks a cutter you'd need.

That said, the kit includes lots of pilots for numerous valve...

From the this web site
Will my high-output alternator damage the OPTIMA battery?
No, as long as the voltage is properly regulated . Because the Optima battery has a very low internal resistance, it will accept high current more efficiently than conventional batteries.
--
--
Form the optima site
optima.png
--
Again it is the voltage, not the...

Unlike the 23” clincher demountable rims, the 21” split demountable rims do not use thin rim liners. I always ran flaps in my 21” chebby disk wheels, the straight side tires don’t protect the tube from the rim, and so the tube is subject to whatever imperfections and movement is present at the rim seam.

I've tried that gear oil gasket maker - still have a drip !

The legacy of the 6 cylinder racer appears to have begun to fade relatively quickly. While it had been Henry Ford's longest running racer, with development beginning in late 1903 through 1909, the racer didn't set any world records to put it in the company of 999 and Arrow. It does have the distinction of being the direct predecessor to a Ford...

That, I don’t know Tony. Since I’m not a Stynoski level restorer, I didn’t research that far. That concave metal panel is unseen so I wouldn’t think so.

Two Thumbs Up :-)

In that case, I'd think Ford would own it. They wound up making the new Bronco look a lot like an IHC Scout II. (Not that I'd mind having a new Bronco or a Scout I or II)

Wow Darin, that looks like a great tour. Beautiful sights and cars. Good for you. Thanks for the pics.

Our club merely took a 61-ish mile country tour today with a brief lunch stop, gorgeous fall color this year all along the tour, and the usual ice cream stop after the first place was already closed even tho their phone msg. said they were...

Really is a fascinating picture!

if you use Control +, you can zoom in and see chassis after chassis lined up in FRONT of the sedan, and one behind the sedan, as well as fenders and all manner of parts piled up. I think most certainly this was a train with disassembled cars enroute to be assembled at an Agent's place.

Rube approves!

Check out Summitracing.com