MTFCA Forum

Will keep everyone posted, probably not gonna be any time soon though , up to my elbows in alligators at the moment lol !!! Thanks for the help guys !!

There are 5 items on my car (not counting the top, upholstery or glass and wiring) that are not Ford manufacture: New Day Timer, outside oil line, rear seat panel, mag post and generator cutout (it’s a diode in a period looking case)

I would take a set

Not sure what was being fixed , but he was into it on a couple of occasions. Easier for him to get under there at age 4 1/2 than Grandpa at 79!

That's what I did. It was very helpful. I have slowed down some recently so I have to start up again. Members here always love pictures and updates on what you are working on. Try looking up Getting Rattles back on the Road and you can see what I've done. Good luck with your build. Don't get discouraged. If I can do it anyone can.

Beautiful! I see lots of potential there!

You might considered staying with the 4:1 gearing, assuming everything from the road to the steering wheel is tight and in good adjustment, and adding a 17 steering wheel and adjusting caster/camber to the best advantage and setting toe-in to slightly favor understeer. Adjusting front/rear tire pressures might also be of benefit. Anything you can...

I depise debt, and avoid it like the plague it is.

Forged drag links began in July 1916. Existing stock of old drag links from other suppliers were used concurrently until May 1917 upon which FORD forged drag links were used exclusively.

Replacing the notch replaces half the wear. To complete the job the corresponding working surfaces on the pedal need building back to spec. The pedal needs to come off the shaft, the wear surfaces built up and then the faces worked back into close contact. This refinishing is key to the job. It requires repeated filing, grinding, bluing, refitting...

Rob, this is fascinating! Great to see you bring another alpha car to the touring circuit.

Andy

I copied a little wire buckle from an old one on Kim Dobbins car. It's only about I square, and hangs from a engine splash pan bolt. From that I have a short leather strap. It's been on my cars for many years.

More likely nickel plated on teens components.

Allan from down under.

The cases are both magnetic. Alan's remark (Thank You) made be polish the AutoLock - definitely Nickle finish. Its also thicker steel and heavier than the Black ones. The Defender is chrome, color of finish and started to peal in one spot

Thanks for all the great info
I'll see what I can find

Church pews would look the part and they are built solid. They always come up for sale at local antique auctions, antique stores/ malls, etc. Not hard to find and usually cheap when you find them.

I obtained a NOS Mosler porcelain in a pile of parts. It's made in France.

The fellow in the second picture with the shotgun was nicknamed “stubby” shortly after the photo was taken…..

An original I have in my store is 1& 1/4+ wide, 5/8 thick and 7 & 11/16 long. The length is regulated by the width if the running board, and the thickness by the depth of the running board sides.

Allan from down under.

The smell of this thread is very, very enticing indeed!
I'm jiggling, waiting for your update. :)

With your good original as a pattern to follow, it shouldn't be very difficult to modify a later one to be so close in fit and appearance that almost nobody could tell them apart once rivetted onto the pan.
CHECK ALL DIMENSIONS! Up/down and side/side dimensions could be slightly different. Check from a fixed point on the surface of the pan where...

Per Steve
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Oil City PA was the founding area of Drakes oil well. There is a lot of information about it in the history books (I guess now internet) about his wells. The city has a museum and a mock up of his first well.

We make them. Give Dave a call at Chaffin's Garage (951) 735-4791

That car was Jerry Sherman’s. It set the record at Long Beach for the fastest flathead ever to run the hill. It now belongs to his son. I have driven it, whatever was done with the carbs is working well.

Thanks Norm….. Great idea about checking the magnets

The first picture shows a set of spare tire cradles. I had a nearly identical set on the back of my 1926 Hudson Coupé. Your set will mount two spares, very fashionable in the early to mid '20s.

Paul

You need to pull the starter bendix, not necessarily the starter motor. Its likely the issue & will be obvious. Lost bolt, broken spring or counterweight. Whall the bendix is out, do a quick test on the starter.
Hit the starter switch & try to stop the spinning with a leather gloved hand. You should not be able to easily stop the motor from...

It is very neat, John. Thank you for posting.

As far as quality is concerned if it’s to specification and made with quality materials that’s fine.
The other side is they could be made in the USA and we’re becoming more dependent on a country who knows what their doing to eventually take over the suits who make the decisions about where we’re going.

...I would recommend that you download the safety inspection sheet(s) from this site and be sure that your car is up to to safety standards before you drive it much.
Excellent idea. Both national clubs have them.

MTFCA SAFETY 1.jpg MTFCA SAFETY 2.jpg

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There were 2 styles of choke arms used on the S, one resembling the G arm but without the reinforcement rib cast into the bottom. That rib could have been present on some because they changed stuff all the time but you can see if somebody shortened a G shaft if the staple holes are not centered.
On some the boss for the mixing chamber cover screw...

Some of those have a restricted fuel inlet while others are straight through to the seat opening.

In 2010 I bought one of those 4th main ball bearings and when I received it and discovered that I was required to cut off 3/8” of the drive shaft tube ball, I returned it, deciding to stay with the time tested babbited bearing.

I removed the drive plate and sent the babbited 4th bearing along with the drive plate to George King III in...

Here is the detail instructions:

The tool has two ends, the taking off tire end has a ‘swivel hook’ that levers against the rim for pulling off the tire.

I suggest it may not be a hub puller per se... quite possibly it's for a pulley, gear wheel, flywheel or something similar.

I prefer hydraulic pressure for assisting rather than a BFH ! I use a chain & bottle neck jack for most help. I had the local T guy (RIP) straighten a crankcase years ago - he used a BFH and broke the snout off the not my c.c. - we didn't speak for quite some time - that's why I built mine.

I will agree as time went onward into the Model T production.
Changes were made to make the part less expensive to produce.
This made the cost of building the car less expensive and that could be pasted onto the consumer to purchase the Model T at a lower price.
I would think the earlier handles that were cast took longer to produce and more...

There could definitely be someone who could use that rear end. Those cars are known to break drivetrain parts more often than T’s.

That's a repair, or someone added it to prevent the fender from cracking, which they often did under hard use. It's also possible someone added it to stiffen the fender so they could carry more cargo on the running board.

Gee Tim, you must have better, younger and sharper Eyes than me!
I can’t see it!!
Alan In Western Australia

Alan, I cheated! I expanded the pic with my fingers to look over the car. I ain't that young either!! Just in my mind, but today certainly not in my shoulders. Good thing the '13 starts with one good yank after priming! :lol:

Just like last year and the year before, except for the new motel. Sarah Johnson is a great potographer.

Of course he crashed, the steering wheel's on the wrong side.

Here's mine. Works OK so far.

IMG_5880 copy.JPG

The dog ain't buyin' it.

No crimping place means it could be a back spring instead of a seat? For a T or??

The period aftermarket offered electric steering wheel hand warmers, but I couldn't find period heated socks. Jay? :)

Larry, of course you are right, the right expression for the part I require is band and not shoe!

Here is an original Scandinavia band with the yellow printing on it and this set I have are 23 1/2” long. I went to check in my garage and they did have the printing as I remembered.
Also is a set of Sears Roebuck cross country bands that are 23 1/2 - 24” long.

The Sears bands are really tightly woven.

Don't be afraid to request the parade organizers put you up front or near the front. My brother did that a year ago and it reduces the starts and stops you get farther back in line. Never hurts to ask for the favor of preference!

I found a procedure in Fahenstock's book basically calling for 1/16 free play in the link between the pedal and the high gear lever. I'll try that, and put the rear axle into Ford direct drive instead of Ruckstell.
Thanks to all who responded Neutral adjustment Model T.pdf

I don’t blame Hank one bit. I am fixing to do same thing. When you have a table full of T parts at Hershey for one dollar each and the reply to it is” I don’t want to get my hands dirty “ what else to do? Now granted they were not nice clean in plastic bag parts, but most were real NOS parts that had a rough life. Still at one buck each! People...

Coffee and donuts before leaving. A Driver's Meeting detailing the route. Ample pre-planned bathroom stops.

Use some lacquer thinner or mineral spirits on a small area and see if it will help dissolve the “dribbles”. Maybe use a small paint brush to apply it and clean out the areas between the fins. Or maybe some type of paint remover to see if it will soften the “dribbles”.
Be sure it’s not the radiator that’s leaking.

Frank

Thank you for telling me what a banjo fitting is. I looked it up and now I understand how it works.

With the inlet on the bottom the fuel line has to drop about 3 inches. I wasnt sure if there is room for the bends and a valve.

It's actually a roadster with an aftermarket rear seat accessory and a custom made top arrangement. According to the owner, the rear seat was a period accessory, but he had the top made.

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I agree with the masses. Thank you! Good meet, long ways for me but I'll be back.

Ed aka #4

Hi Steven, Thank you for the info about the electric shut off valves. I didn't have any other info. about them and that's good to know.
Thanks,
Keith

You can buy this pitman arm puller from Harbor freight for $16.00. with a little grinding it makes an excellent puller for the wire wheel hub.

Yep, it works great!
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I would also loosen the side motor mounts and the wishbone socket to take the stress off the pan while lifting.

Thanks for the posting, Michael.

Why the difference in recommended gaps?
Speculation: Ford wanted best overall engine performance. Champion wanted best overall plug performance. A new Champion plug set at .025 could be expected to give better magneto starts and cold weather starts on older cars and could be expected to run more miles on any car without needing cleaned or...

I was (still looking) hoping to come up with a photo of John Wehn, possibly with one of his early cars. I'm curious what the 1905 30 hp car was. Winton was one candidate, and was sold in Denver at the time.

This is what an August/September 1906 Model K would have looked like. Not the early style radiator, but a later streamlined tank and less...

Paint Codes
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A friend of mine got his from Supply These are 2020 prices so......

Frank, both the rims and the felloes on our Kelsey wheels have that same branding. However, only our 21 felloes have that sraight-up outer edge on the felloe shown in your photo, and these 21 wheels take split rims with fixed lugs. Is there any chance your photo is of a 21 rim?
Our 23 rims all have the rolled in outer edge on the felloe. The rims...

It’s interesting,
That’s been on the History Channel before and it gets shown from time to time again on TV fairly often. It’s from The Men Who Built America series they did a few years ago.
For a purist it’s not exactly correct when they show some T’s not exactly correct for a certain time period but it’s a very good history in general about...

I have been told that all currently available tires except Blockleys are made in the same Vietnam factory using the same rubber compounds no matter what name is on the sidewall.

Blockley tires are also made in Nam. Only Blockley has much higher standards and thicker sidewalls. One that will become obvious when you are mounting them.

Glad you found the issue! I suppose since we live and work in a different era and use to our modern cars that have overall closer tolerances in their fit up we tend to think our Model T’s are the same or close to it.
Not So!

Years ago when I became interested in T’s it became apparent they were crudely built in a way and thinking about it we are...

I blew up the photo as much as I could and I actually see three pins.
Two are readily visible, one is barely visible at 90° from the two that can be easily seen. It can barely be seen at the very surface level of the filler. I assume that there is a fourth pin located opposite of the one I just mentioned.
I'm going to make a guess, and this is...

He was quite an Iowan, Texan, Confederate, and, not least, an exemplary American. (Probably due to be canceled )

The last design exhaust pipe and muffler started in 1921. and went to the end.

I drove the car about 5 miles after the above picture, and another 5 miles after arriving in Hamilton, and could feel an occasional slight “bump” in the pedal on moderate braking. Upon checking the oil screen I found it completely plugged with lint, and even more of the end of the lining gone - time to change the brake band lining. Fortunately, it...

I'd love to get the broker commission on that sale

Many thanks, George!

I just bought two rubber stem tubes for Universal Tires.

They were actually shipped from Coker Tire, in Tennessee.

The two related 30 X 3 1/2 Wards Riverside tires were shipped from Lucas in California.

When ordering the distance plate you will need the part number: 3330. :)

Would most any puller work?

Only if they have the clearance for the legs to fit between the housing and the gear.

Mark,

Your John Brown 110's have the red jewels on the back panel of the lamp.
Those style lamps seem to have been used on the 1913 Models and
earlier 1914 style cars. The old photos indicate that is what happened and I
have a set on my car.

The progression appears to have been:
1) jeweled, 2) plain back panel (no jewel), both spade...

Allan: I assumed the forum somehow posted your reply at random, but I could not resist being a smart @&& given the content of the thread. And I do appreciate reading the many helpful technical things you post here, take care, jb

Wouldn't you all like to have that much room behind the steering wheel for a comfortable driving position. That's the beauty of well thought out commercial vehicles.

Allan from down under.

I see two of them. (One is starting at $145) And they both have the Corbin brass plated lunch box style latches.

: ^ )

Mike-
The snap more than likely would have been an Anzo fastener. It is the same type of fastener that was used on the outer flap of the edge of tops that was used to attach the side curtains on early cars.

Here is how the Anze fastener works on 1911 side curtains:

Anzo studs black.JPG

Here is a 1911 top and the side curtain flap

Anzo...

Mark is sending me the correct bolt, thanks for all your input.

Thank you all for the responses!

Verne Shirk

That 6 Volt Starter does not mind using a 12 Power Pack to start the engine.

My 12 Volt Power Pack seemed to mind a lot and will no longer take a recharge.

The starter motor can handle it, but the Bendix won't for long.