MTFCA Forum

Looking good.

I turned the photos to make them easier to read.

Several of the cars, bidding has already hit top dollar on them. Interestingly, one in particular I wish I could be interested in is already nearly as high or HIGHER than two different but practically same make/model/condition cars I know of for sale. One of which is only about two hundred miles from me!
But there are still several cars in bargain...

Well done Scott. Thank you, important info about our Stromberg carbs.

I often have to temper my responses to you blokes. Our Aussie sense of humour is pretty laid back and understated, and you often don't get it The forum online format doesn't show such nuances. For example, I asked s private vendor if there was any warranty on a part I bought 12 years ago and hadn't yet fitted. To his credit, he said that was a bit...

Adam and Dan

thank you for correcting the record

are un-square or lumpy faces acceptable as new or is it worthy to face them with a very large radius with proper equipment after purchase? I would think it would be, but perhaps I am in error again!

It's things like this that make all the people I've never done engine work for, very happy! I'll...

This link should work:

Thanks! Ordered one and it is on the way!

I would avoid international border checkpoints if you are using the cannabis scented fuel....

Point taken!
Probably not a good idea at all considering R.I.D.E. checks within your own borders!

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He is facing the axle yoke, NOT the spindle bushings.
I will post a picture later of my set up. May start producing it. Dan

That would be great, Dan!

Thank you

The more I look at it, I don't think it would work on the T wheels.

It's not often that we see a tutorial on riviting. This might make a really good you tube video showing how to install rivits on the front cross member as well as the rear cross member and side rails as you did in this post.
Thanks for showing us how you did it.
Keith

Thanks for the suggestions. The “screw” I referred to is the thumbscrew you turn to open or shut off the flow. I’m fairly new to antique cars but it looks like a standard part common to the model T. The car is keeping me on my toes with water leaks—first I eliminated the add-on water pump from the previous owner because it REALLY leaked, and now...

You should have seen the girl at our dmv when I registered my 1908 Reliable Dayton. It was serial number 12. She had to call the main office in the state capital to ask if it was even possible to use a two digit Vin #. Her computer would not let her complete the registration forms with only two digets. They had to talk her thru a manual override...

Ron's coils take a lickin' and keep on tickin' ! Top notch work, many thanks, Bill

Thanks for the journey photos Steve. It’s also good to know that others (like me) jack up a rear wheel to crank start their pre starter Model T s. I even keep a bottle jack and jack stand in the turtledeck for this. 😁🇺🇦

I scroll right by all the $1000 trailers on FB Marketplace. Most in my area are listed as being in Detroit. Yeah, right…

Peter, I went back to your distributor post and checked out the photo you posted. Based solely on what I could see of the right hand hood shelf, your car is not a 1926 model. That would explain why you have no wide brake band/drum on the transmission. Some more photos of the car would help.

Allan from down under.

How about putting the threaded end of the new oval headed screws in a drill press and while running, sand off the plating, then bury the screws in a container of wet dirt until they achieve the amount of rust and age you desire or until the patina matches the original ones in your car. Jim Patrick

Thank you!

Mr. Bartow....LOL. Ummmmm. OK!

As I recall, I used to buy Wards tubes for under $5. They never has 30 X 3.

My 1912 has firewall brackets with larger embossed factory numbers. Most I see are like yous. Don't know the dates.

John, I could be wrong as I am several times a day, but pretty sure planators were just underdrive like a ruckstell. The early ( Starr Planator) ones didn’t have the shift detent, which is not a big deal if you have an original shifter for them. The later ones (jumbo planator) have kind of a double safety, with the detent in the unit and the...

My Canadian 1922 tourer has them, all Canadian 20 to 23 t's have them

It is possible the thermometer could have burst if it got too hot. The hot liquid has a dye in it, and if too hot seems to be able to stain and dry inside if the fluid blows out the thin bottom of the glass. I have never seen this happen with original Motometers. But I have seen it a couple times with newer reproduction meters.

I have over the...

Yes, a very unusual combination! Likely after-market fore-doors for the 1911.
Neat car! Wheels and all.
Thank you Tom R! And Pete E.

You can purchase a new, fully functional diode from the Nu-Rex company. It is not a mechanical cutout. It is solid state with an internal diode. Cost is only $62.25 plus shipping. I ordered mine on a Thursday and received it Saturday. My car is back on the road.

Its just the internal diode that makes it solid state, nothing else is needed....

Fun stuff but i would suggest you think long and hard about using them on a car you drive. Think about what happens when they break. This is not ford vanadium steel. This kind of part has caused fatal accidents before. Perhaps they are better on display rather than on the road.

PM sent regarding parts

Another trick I have used in these situations is lead, super clean the male pipe thread and run a bead of solder around the threads. If done right the solder will run around the threads and create a perfect seal. If the first attempt fails it can be reheated and the unwanted solder can be brushed off, some times the brushing can make a perfect...

Linus,
You have us tempted. It is a long haul from Western Canada to the host location.
A number of us from our Foothills Model T Club have been on three different extended camping tours.
One to the Rocky Mountains, one to the Northern Boreal forests and one Prairie trip.
The longest trip was about 300 miles in total.
Lots of great memories........

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I have three in my collection two say Balloon Tire Gage and one doesn't specify. They all have different pressure ratings, 10 - 42lbs, 30 - 170lbs and 10 - 50lbs. The manufacturer is A.SCHRADER'S SON INC.
One is pat in Canada in 1914 and 1926, one is made in Brooklyn New York pat July 6th 1909,...

I do the same thing as Craig Leach.

I have 3 T’s and no generators.

Henry put a crank on the front for a reason!

Methods of identification
Nickle over brass (not magnetic) - If they are original, they may have hairline cracks on the outer rim. Original are heavier than repro's
I had a set of Nickle repro's 4 years ago that had a slightly raised edge - returned them.
--
Chrome is over steel thus the rim is magnetic. Rim is lighter in weight and may show...

Inspected the caps today. All are tight and not turning due to the RTV goo that was applied during install. I should be fine now. 😉

Hello everyone,
I used all NAPA Echlin line parts. Points CS313, Condenser EP259, Cap EP274. Points & condenser box says made in Mexico and are identical in appearance. Cap says made in Germany, fits well but contacts are made of material different from the old cap, hopefully better as the pickups on the old cap had a lot of build up from arcing....

Bravo Mark!

I used that document to route a line for a friend's Torpedo 2 years ago and could not find it, thinking it was part of the MTFCA forum somewhere. I'd saved it as a valuable document, but did a poor job of documenting it by name.

A screen door brace can be used on sagging T open car doors also. Without taking everything apart and if the wood is good in a door that would be the thing to do I think. Hope that’s what the sagging issue is instead of the body pillars or sills wood.

It shifts really bad going into high

Model T's do not shift like other cars when changing gear from low to high. When you start in low tromp the peddle down hard don't ease into it, when you shift from low to high (about 8-9 MPH) back off of the throttle let the peddle out and then advance your throttle again. Be sure to have the timing advanced...

YES. I drive the 10. I need to do some adjustment to the rear, driver side, door beore I drive it again - when nice weather comes.

Glad you enjoyed the photos. Mark an I really enjoy getting a car positioned for photography and it is very much of a team effort. It was a surprisingly challenging car to photograph.

Don’t over think it... I’ve been running em for years and they have never moved. Make the bolts fit, and it’ll be fine👍

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Jim is right. Even here in southern California, I used to live in Montrose which is about 30 miles inland from the coast. I had several Model A's. I had one fender which was stored in a garage. This fender was completely stripped of paint and rust free. It was there for a few years, then I moved to San Diego about 2 miles from the ocean and one...

George, I tried your method but the dent can’t be reached by a straight dowel. It is farther to the outside of the top so I need to find something with a slight curve. Also, the brass tops have an inner liner so how do you get past that to reach the dent in the brass top?
Any help is appreciated.

I sure hope it holds off

He is thinking of retiring? He was taught by the fellow that did my 1925 Studebaker wheel over 45 years ago!

If anyone is interested in going to lunch on Friday, let me know, call me at4239003544

Even with all the holes drilled in a Model A crank..., Never seen one close to being balanced. Ford pretended to pay his people well and they pretended to work by just drilling random balance holes!

Thanks all….I forwarded responses to my son.

The top two pieces (-7) should match up with 603 & 604 in the list. The notches are for clearance with the door striker hardware.

Nice Thursday view, especially picture #3 with 1911 Touring car, splendide!

1. How old were you when you first owned a Model T Ford?
2. Why did you buy it?
3. What was the most interesting thing you did in or with your ModelT Ford? (Keep it clean please!)
4. What was it about your Model T Ford that you liked?
5. What was it about your Model T Ford that you didn't like?

Regards,

Steve Boothroyd
Sidney, B.C.
Canada

...somewhere I found an article describing Ford engines built at Long Island being shipped via the Panama Canal to the LA assembling plant due to cost effectiveness.
Yes, transport by water has always been less costly than by land. Think Erie Canal, Ohio/Mississippi flatboats, Saint Lawrence Seaway, etc.

Thanks for the drawings Martin.
It's been quite a while since we last talked about your top installation.
I've recently retired and move just up the peninsula from Victoria, B.C. to Sidney B.C.
My wife, daughter and I are heading down to California this week to go to Disneyland.

Regards,

Steve Boothroyd

Sidney, B.C.
Canada

Crowned fenders began with 1917. Straight-up windshield ended with 1922. So 17-22 for sure.

Tim, a guy down the road has done that!

Fossil evidence on Canadian firewalls I have seen differs from that shown in the drawings. The relief shown is a simple chamfer, with rounded ends, indicating it was to be formed on a spindle. The reliefs I have seen on Canadian firewalls have a rounded section rather than a flat section to the cut. These would have been created by a ball shaped...

Noel, your upgrades are exactly what I have on my roadster, with one exception. I run an E Timer, and I love it! On a recent tour I did have an intermittent skip under power when cold. I think I have a spark plug breaking down a bit.
I forgot, my Ruckstell has a 3.25:ratio gearset.

Allan from down under.

Ah haaa....makes sense. Thanks.

The other Tim

That is a terrific photo and I love it every time I see it. The detail of parts scattered about the shop is great. Not to mention the prospect of beams slipping.
Here are a few comments from before.

Many of the new folks on the forum have not had the chance to see it. The rest of us will still enjoy it.
Thanks
Rich

Thank you for thinking of me Tom. That would be a delightful one to paint. I will add it to the stack.
I puzzled about what car it was. I'm thinking it's a 1910 Model 16 or Model 10 Buick Surrey. They both had that funny disc above the spider.
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That would allow me to put more of the car in the picture and make the faces smaller. My...

I have finished the Thermosyphon video and published it public on YouTube. Thanks to everyone for previewing it and for the constructive suggestions!

Awesome Rob. Can not wait to see them. While I will not be on the tour, I'll be down on Sunday to hang out and view the cars. Might bring my T too for the display. I hope to run into you and say hi.

Andy

Sometime during the 1913-1914 conversion to the Williams designed KW coil Ford had a need for additional coils to meet production needs.
The Heinze coil you describe was purchased to meet those requirements. The size and terminal spacing are the same as the Ford/KW coils used up till the end of Model T production. They are no very common but do...

Sherwin-Williams Automotive produces a single stage urethane enamel product called “ Genesis G2”. It is an industrial coating that dries very hard and is not supposed to chip. It is used by trucking companies where appearance and durability is required.
I’ve been using it on the underside of Antigue auto fenders for several years. If you’re...

That MIL roadster with the boy in back bugs me. It does appear to be a model T Ford, left side driven, sidelamp looks right. The front fender would indicate a 1909 or 1910 model. The front fender looks like it could be gray? The standard color for the first 3/4s of 1909 (roughly speaking?) was gray for the roadsters.
However, the seat does not...

CatGuy. ...... Check the contacts inside the coil box, be sure they are shiny clean and are springing out so when the coil is placed in that position the electrical contact will be intact. Unfortunately a few years back I did replace those contacts inside the coil box with a new replacement offered by one of our vendors, and realized that it was...

What Mark said.

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You can also use them for the transmission cover. There you only need two. Install them before you remove the cover and take them out after you replace it, so there's no chance of dropping one into the Black Hole of Misery.

Bruce. Good decision. You are doing the right thing by restoring and using the original starter foot button. I doubt if there is any insulation in the upper half of the button. The steel shaft inside the plunger is riveted to the button cap, which is connected to the two contacts and making constant contact with the steel casing of the upper...

Thanks all and thank you George the instructions do clarify how to use the tool. Allan if you make the posted instructions the background photo on your desktop they are readable. Hummm? the instructions only show how to remove the rim not how to install the rim in a new tire.

The body bolts I believe are 11/16 or 3/4 hex. With the splash aprons and rear leaf spring being in the way I doubt this would be very useful on the body bolts even if it were the correct size.

Stephen

Thanks for taking into account not just the size, but the purpose/ limitations of the tool design. That's what it's going to take to figure it...

Thanks, Brian and MTFCA

Clean as a whistle andcoated with a thin layer of oil

I was going to camp there unfortunately there is no camping. It is RV/trailer only

We are camping at breezy hill and if they plan on attending we could bring the BIG tent and change the reservation. Some help for setup/tear down would be appreciated but we can section off a room in the tent.

As I remember roof equals speed and problems rajo equals power and reliability and fronty well thats somewhere in between.

Rajo with Gallivan single overhead cam from the Museum of American Speed. dsc07386-edit_3_orig.jpg

Red Oxide primer is best because the red oxide deters rust. Grey is good as a primer, but it does not deter rust. The old man who painted my T the first time in 1971 used professional grey primer that came in a gallon can which, in the can was thick and had to be thinned for the spray gun but, he also used it thick right out of the can as a body...

I wonder if that model K is a known car today.

If anyone in that area has the time and inclination for the detective work, it would be fun to find out. What it points up to me is the incredible passage of time, and how folks' perceptions have changed. Think of it, when this K was an item worthy of notice, it was a mere 34 years old. Can you...

Somewhere between .025-.030 is a good general setting for me. I have 3 T’s and they are set for the quirkiness of each T.

To me it’s like finding a setting that’s right for the carb for your paticular car. And we all know it’s not exactly 1 1/4 turns for every T!