MTFCA Forum

Thank you all for responding to my question on flywheel very hlepful!

I thought the left one also kept the steering pitman arm from overcentering or reversing.

The committee is solely responsible for the printing error submitted to the editor of the magazine. We are simply trying to correct the date so everyone is informed and can get their reservation made at the discounted rate.

I don't have any made in the USA with the prongs, just the standard style. I send out gypsy wings very often. Mine don't come with the hooks or springs. It's very rare a customer even asks about the hooks or springs. I think people are getting those from Snyder's.

What does it do if you have the brake pulled all the way back when starting?

Yes Bob, its my anniversary. Yes really. You beat my wife to it. Im sure she was going to buy it all for me.😂🤣😂🤣

I spoke with Larry, apparently his units do not come with the rods and other related parts to make the set up work. Anybody making those parts? Hi source is no longer available. Are both setups for the large drum or?

thanks

Yes, is car is for sale. See it at Stall Number 1192

Classitique only provides the non-metal pieces when you tell them you don't have the metal pieces.

... so they named the ‘new road’ - Equine Blvd. 😁🇺🇦

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!!! I DO APPRECIATE IT! Lisa

Definitely not needed. The flywheel alone will sling plenty of oil. I have been running without slingers for 20 years or more.

With a splash system however, it's a good idea to have an accessory oil line that moves oil to the front of the engine, especially when climbing steep hills.

A story about accessory oil lines: I was helping a friend...

For a long time I use an oilseal for the crankshaft,.and glue them to the engine block and timing cover , with JB weld
And also the normal feld style seal .

Thanks to an Forum user .
Toon IMGP2540.JPG IMGP2542.JPG

I have had a triple beam mechanical scale for about 35 years. It is accurate to .1 gram and it comes in handy quite often.

Art Mirtes

On the same page with you Les! Just had to have a little fun!!!!!

Hank

I have seen two Model AA trucks converted to forklifts like this as well as some model B Ford powered Friday and Love tractors. The reason to run them in reverse was also to put the weight being lifted on the heavier rear end with dual tires or in the case of the tractors the heavier tractor tires. Most doodlebugs running a sweep rake are not...

Gee Dan,
As others have said great to meet you and put a face to the famous name, me too and thanks for the drive! (I did it 4 times!!)
Alan in Western Australia

Another area for cracks is the rear main bearing web, especially in early blocks, but not exclusively. The blocks are machined to accept the nuts on the rear main bearing bolts. This creates sharp stress riser, from which cracks can emanate. The end result is usually a broken block and crankshaft. It is often reported that the crankshaft broke and...

Galvanising and electro zinc plating both result in the deposition of zinc on the steel. Often Galvanising is the term used as the description for both processes The processes are quite different. Electro plating gives a thinner,smoother, more uniform but less lasting finish. Hot dip galvanising involves the components being immersed in molten...

Interesting. I have never seen the one for the TT. Interesting to see that what I am doing has been done before.

You've been getting some good advice.

I'm a newb myself but have learned a lot the last 4 years thru experience and listening to the guys on this forum. My car had been sitting for 30 years or so before I got it. Recently I've been helping a friend bring a '22 Model T back to life that sat for 10+ years and can tell you what helped both him and...

Mission accomplished.

These typically have doors that direct heat mounted to that center wing nut. Yours are missing.

This one didn’t have doors, the nut holds the front on. I found this one like it but not the same looks to be later copy:
6EB0FF78-FF3E-490D-A4EB-444A2D4F6B60.png

Thanks guys. I’ve long thought Frank Kulick doesn’t receive his due. He remained loyal to Henry Ford and FMC, staying on at Ford, rising to an executive level office before leaving at the end of the Model T era.

I do think there should be a movie about his life, and relationship with Henry Ford. In part 2 the story will end on a high note. An...

Please contact Frank using his email above. The hotel is set and the dates are set. The particulars are still being discussed, but I believe it is primarily 3 days of touring. If you want to contact me via PM, I can forward you the 2 e-mails I have received from Frank.

Yours looks pretty good. I would align the contacts, and clean them up real good. I had a problem with one of those I wanted to use on my 4925. It was perfect, and I put the switch on with the extension, and it wouldn't go through the seat riser plate far enough.
So, I had to use a NORS replacement I had of the later design.

Thanks for the advice everyone! It turned out to by the set screw on that collar contacting the inside of the driveshaft tube. It definitely looks like enough clearance, but I guess not!

Excellent! Thanks for the update!

Spotting lug in this photo is 3/4 from the backing plate/drum seam. Some lugs I've seen are not ground down this far...they stand out .01 to .02 maybe.

Dick, Yes, don't stop once you start a pull. I found what you said to be true.

Thanks for compliment Allan! I think you're right that they are Chevy rims. Car and most of its parts over the last three years have come from Mark Freimiller's 'Model T Haven' which he closed and auctioned everything last November ( see link below ). Really going to miss his wisdom and used parts inventory! With regard to the project, goal was...

Campbell,
Generally, yes.
There were covers for both the front and back seat hatches in 1916. Depending on the manufacturer, the seat frame and covers would be made of either wood or steel. You likely will find remains of hinges or holes for mounting the hinges.
: ^ )
Keith

RIP Lenny and Priscilla, long live the Haunted Snow Mobile

He should have flown in with the F16.

Thanks to all, Don is sending one but the discussion and illustration was quite educational.

Regards to all

Ben

Mark, though not an oil can, I’ve repaired a leaking bottom seam on a 1940’s Dietz kerosene lantern with spar varnish - poured a little in the lantern base, swished it around to cover the seam, let it dry for a few days. Five plus years later - still no leaks.

I agree with Miles Bowen re: crush washer

that said, since I have discovered these:

I use them exclusively. They never seem to wear out or lose their effectivity and are all but perfect seals. I use them on the drain plug, transmission cover, and bottom inspection cover.

they are WONDERFUL

wish I'd discovered them 40 years ago...

The article appeared in Vol. 33, #3, on page #36, in year, May/June 1998. Very nice article, if you are looking for a information on early tools. Well done, Larry.

Steve,

Come on in the Holy Water is fine. :-)

Dom

Good! I'm glad you were able to fix it.
Norm

Thank you very much. That is a huge help!! That word obituary is what I was afraide of.

Could you butt the ends together and over sew it with webbing?

I believe he lives in Wichita Falls, Texas. Jim Patrick

The group visiting the Arch

I fixed him up today.

If you want to give him a hard time you can mention he had 2 user names!

Chris

I just got my copy and it is much better than advertised. High quality printing and sharp pictures. A really nice product.

Thanks for the help, I think I’ve got it now.

That plate is part of the economizer system. For FORD, it would have one hole, and it's alignment relative to the throttle plate is critical for proper performance.

U&J updrafts evolved somewhat through the years in ways which are not always obvious. Due to their being modular in design it is quite possible that many marriages took place in the...

Rainer,
Measuring the distance for the timer setting only works if you have a Ford timer and a Ford roller, you might, but probably do not. Ford timers and rollers are marked with a Ford script. There are a lot of different manufactures and styles of timers, not knowing for sure what you have, it is best to assume that you do not have a Ford timer...

I still think you can take the majority of that deep dent out so it is not so prominent. I would place it front side down on a smooth piece of wood and from behind, using a broad, rounded piece of wood, gently rub the dent out by applying pressure to the high point of the dent. As the dent is smoothed out, the high point will spread out. Continue...

perfect..... exactly what i was looking for... the link that you provided did not work, however i was able to google the title of the book and it took me to the site... found the passage in the book.... thanks for your assistance...

//michael//

Thanks for letting me know about the link problem. I corrected them, up above, by removing the prefix...

Interesting Dan

On my visit to your shop last week didn’t get to see that tool.

Are You Sure?

Seems I spy the removed hogshead on that fishing trip. :lol:

38FCD97D-9EE9-4C1C-8B57-3D2C178C8DE8.jpeg

Thank you so much for the education :D

Here again, how are we supposed to supply and answer, when the year of the car is not given? Those items were changed over the years considerably. We all should agree that the engine side of the engine pans use the engine bolts. In many cases the engine pans have gotten the holes enlarged due to being replaced several times, and require a flat...

Thanks Steve, that's what I thought, but nice to hear confirmation. Looks like a good setup.

Richard
A similar situation occurred when Ford introduced the spare tire carrier for the 1926 Roadster pickup spare tire carrier.
Attached is a photo of this part.
The problem was how to support the spare tire carrier base to the embossed ridges on the uneven running board surface.
A simple flat shim was developed and mounted between the carrier...

I have two sets of the covers, pictured above with the red trim. One set is used and doesn't have the hub caps. The other set is NOS and has the correct hub caps and has only been out of the original box for inspection and photos. If I don't use them, someday, you'll see them in the Classifieds 'for sale', but that is a ways down the road. Next...

It doesn't take much to allow the high tension to find a way to ground. On the primary side, you'd think 6 volts would be fairly easy to keep corraled, but then a Model T ignition primary might see up to 30 volts when running on the magneto. Old insulation can harbor internal defects that allow current leakage even if it looks good. Such defects...

Hello from Newport, NC. The only Model T that I know of in Newport, NC is at Bogue Sound Distillery. I am a Model A guy that is searching for a brass Model T. I would enjoy talking to you when you get in town.

Welcome and thanks for sharing your story. Glad to see that you are doing your best to influence your peers.

What is winter?
from John in SW Florida.

I think the Florida definition is when the temp is below 70F… :lol:

The dimensions on the paper are the correct FORD dimensions.

As suggested, you really should make a cardboard cutout to the FORD dimensions and fit into the door channel. Now, my guess is that the door channel is completely out of the door and this cannot actually happen. If that is the case, then you should wait until the car is painted, the...

Some chassis have the ID (VIN) number stamped on top of the channel iron on the passenger side (or driver’s side)...
Not on this one. Serial numbers were first stamped on frames December 10, 1925 (1926 model year). The Ford parts book shows this front spring clip up to 1921, no later.

Got it! Thanks MTFCA!

Yes, my 1922 T touring is coming up to its 100th birthday in May!

Regards,

Steve Boothroyd

The intent of the project was to see if there was a correlation between Production Number (Block Number) and the Body Number. The body number based on the literature is Briggs body.

Thank you for your share.

Yes, your style slingers will clear the pump, hoping the triple gear retaining plate does, what size mounting bolts are you using for the slingers? I've retapped an original #14-24 threaded gear for 1/4 -28 but not a new 1/4 -24 one. Thanks, Joe

IMG_1664.JPG

Scott, What is a floor switch ?
Sorry for the confusion Bruce, I meant starter switch on the floor.

As Ron Patterson corrected me: Of course, two revolution (or four buzzing coils). And 1/2 crankshaft turn between coils. I will also update my post. Thanks, this was a mistake by me. :)

As I understand the initial post, jiminbartow was asking for some sort of »possibly recommendable maintenance« without any need for getting things...

I got a call last night from my good friend, Larry Original Smith to tell me that I needed to look at Tom Rootlieb's post titled Mishap Monday and to pay special attention to the photos 25, 26, 27, and 28 showing a moderately bashed T Touring car.
He said that there was an early type concrete street name post in one of the photos clearly showing...

I press them off, then heat the new one with a torch and they drop back on.

The end float in the driveshaft is controlled by the bushing face on the bush at the bell. There are no shims anywhere in a standard fitting.

Rather than take a cut off the transmission to clean it up, I would use some fine abrasive paper to polish it. This will clean it up and leave a nice surface for a new babbit bearing. Gene French can supply...

Priceless Rat Rod Ready radiator. Put it on eBay starting bid $200 + shipping as a Used re-core of an Original Brass Model T Radiator. If it doesn't sell it cost you nothing

Thanks Mr. Burns! I'll forward them over right now. Glad we could reconnect😁

Here's an early 1916 Ford with 1915 plates. It looks like the flaps were gone by late calendar 1915.

Looks like it's for Free Rotor valves, these used to be fairly common on industrial engines, takes two c- shaped keepers, and an inverted cup over the end of the valve only example I can think of is Fordson Major, but there's way more.. Dave in Bellingham, Wa

Thanks Ed. Maybe he’s not home yet.

Correct John, and here is comparisons to the earlier heat stove pipes.

The late pipe is recessed at the upper side to clear the new combo choke and carb adj. rod with the universal joint.

That new assembly was shown in the July 1925 Service Bulletin.

741508.jpg 741509.jpg

Steve, my thoughts exactly.

John, thanks again for your advice.

Tyler

Thanks for the stories and pictures, I will cherish the sturdy little chair even more now that I know a little more.

Sorry due to death of my machinist no longer being produced by me. Check with Les, Dan

Thanks for all of the ideas.

I thought I do the math. I have accounts with all three.
Usually better to condense the heavy smaller items in one shipment and the large lighter in its own. I used the repecive shippers online shipment calculators. Extra charges for additional insurance over their respective defaults. I have shipped wire wheels...

How it works
Info on the transmission cover
How it works from s
er5.jpg
er6.png

Here is an age old question. Why did people run with their tops down so much, even in cold weather?

I'm a top down snob :lol: I just think the experience is better with the wide open space. Better gas mileage too!

Unless it’s an OF for a Willys. It was a different size flange.

What does the back of the switch look like?
It could have been stamped incorrectly. Bet the same person was hired by the Government to print US currency

That is a very interesting concept on the tires. As I live in the country I have access to manure and I have some vintage ground grip tires to experiment on!
Nothing that I will tour with but interesting to have some fun with.

My engine casting date is September 18th, 1916 and assembly date was September 23rd, 1916. They didn't waste much time.

Thank you Frank and Bill. Greatly appreciated!

Great to hear at least some good news from down there. Thanks for posting. I fear storm season is just getting started.

This is a copy of what Kim Dobbins wrote in 2008.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message By Kim Dobbins on Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - 11:52 pm:
Here is some of the info that I have on some of the early T's.
#2 was restored by Don Hess, then sold to a dealer in PA, then sold someone in England.
#18 is a...