MTFCA Forum

As I have posted before several years ago regarding M1918 tanks, there was one of those in the City of Downey back in the mid seventies on display outside The Supply Sargeant Military Surplus Store on Firestone Boulevard near Brookshire Avenue across from Simpson Buick.
It had taken a hit in the right rear exposing the engines and mechanical...

This is what makes it all worth the time and effort. :)

So many of those that are gone now made our lives so much better in so many ways. It's good to have the memories of them.
Rich

Thank you all!

Thanks for the Information Wayne. I have a chicago Mark E(not installed) I guess I should take the top off and inspect it just too see what I have going on inside.

Tim

I also use a piston vice & a rod through the pin. Rod bolt nuts I also hand tighten by feel - I assume if one's intent on utilizing a torque wrench, I believe a grade 5 bolt is 6-8 lbs. per 1/8 - Model T rod bolts are 3/8 so close to 24 foot lbs.

This is the one I remember seeing a lot.
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I did it not long ago. As I recall, I first located where the hole should be using my original splash shield on a 1913 runabout as a guide. I center punched that location, and drilled it with a 1/4 drill. I got a piece of soft wood and drilled a 1/2 hole it it, and put it on my floor jack directly under the 1/4 hole. I raised the floor jack to the...

Here is the pdf copy of the installation manual. Anyone who wants or needs one emailed to you shoot me an email and I'll send it out

Jim

Rich P. Bingham wrote: Why ? Are you installing an electric starter ?

Yes because I prefer to avoid arm cranking. It is an '11 3 passenger Roadster per McCalley's book or an '11 Commercial Roadster per Lang's catalog (looks the same to me) with a '23 engine. Not the real deal but am having fun. Will post pictures in about a year or two or three...

I have the polycotton car cover by Covercraft. Like it. Custom made to fit a 26 coupe.

Humble. I did not see that company. Great! I will look into them as they have a site. Thank you.

That's an interesting observation Larry - I recall Ben Martin stating something regarding the #55 key in the aftermarket or repro switches.

John, are you all moved now and settled in?

Does your T like those Delaware low hills?

While your tank is out, check the best you can for loose baffles. 26/7 cars are bad for drumming noise made from loose tank baffles.

What do you do if they are loose? Whats the fix?

Michael now is a good time to do it when it is new so you won’t have issues for the rest of your life. you can find the Red Kote on eBay for cheap as $15 for a quart can which is more than enough to do your generator. then have them ship it to you if they ship internationally.

Being as you have an original you might consider reproducing them.

Yes, re different between T and TT. Different size drums to start with.

Good post Jeff! Yeh, this has been the spring from Haities...only been out twice, short trip in the Fordor, not much longer one in the '13 Touring but that day it was at least 80 degrees! That was over a week ago. Maybe this weekend the Fordor will come out again.

THANKS everyone for your help cheers Warwick.

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As of today, there are two spaces still available. I hope that you will decide to come along. It it a wonderful tour.
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can provide the newer style Matt 503-824-2681

I enjoyed spending some time looking at details on this car.
Great example to see how things were done from the factory.

Darren makes a very good point. I had to do extensive correction work to the centre castings on my 1912 clamshell diff because of cracks in the castings between the rivet holes. It is the only diff I have ever had to straighten. I assemble mine using a jig which holds the housings on the vertical. The axles present themselves off centre at the...

Kerry, Just going from memory, I may have machined them oversize, but that was about 30 years ago. I do remember basing my sizes off the stock KR Wilson size for the T part of the mandrel.

There were many different mandrels made for the KR Wilson jig. Mandrels were available for all Ford products from T era till the 1950s as well as other makes...

Bruce

Concrete block is subject to fracture, with a load, or even a narrow load band like the little foot of a jack stand. The block seems dense but it is really porous substrate. Recommended not to use for automotive support. Accidents have been reported.

Here is one nice report, lucky no accident but the block cracking under load was just a...

My experience driving with a clincher tire with a flat was not good. The tire left the rim and rolled about 1/2 a mile with me running after it. I had probably hit a pothole and dislodged a pinched tube, a small cut under high pressure ripped the tube wide open causing a suddon loss of pressure. Sounded like a gunshot. Looked in the rear view...

I have two of these and they work great for me. I don’t regularly drive my 3 T’s all the time and these keep my batteries up.

I only have one, but it works great for me also on either 6 or 12 volts.

This previous post discusses body numbers.

Way down in the discussion I see an “H” number like yours. That post says it might identify the manufacturer as Hayes.

I have 1913 runabout with a Fisher body.

I have a 13 block with no number at all. Can't give you the casting date now. I'm out of town.

Don, I appreciate your comment because my father-in-law was a bridge builder and anything he built was pretty much here to stay. Bob

To the top please.

If I have the latest title for a Model T of US origin, is there then any way I can trace back previous owners?

As previously stated above, very unlikely.
In the US Titles are issued by the individual states. They are intended to be a document of proof of ownership. You have said you have the latest title..
So... you can search on the name of the...

I had that happen back in 2015. I have no doubt it was due to a 'repair' done on the wheel whereby the spoke ends were no longer bearing against the axle part of the hub. So, all the cornering forces were transmitted through the flange.
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I have some 3 ash that is air-dried 16 wide and maybe 16' long. Where are you?

Will I’m in Goshen Indiana

A friend sold his Model A to a local dealership for showroom display just a couple of weeks ago. Got a fair price. So it still happens.

We have a limited supply of these and they come in the original box. We’ll have some for sale at the National tour in Wisconsin.

Richard G. -- Experimental was the term I used, but I don't recall RV calling it that. He just said he was trying a new material which he thought would work like the original Watts material. But he did say it was a new material and wanted feedback on it, so I thought that sounded like an experiment. I don't know whether he stayed with that...

If you treat your wench appropriately, she won't need anchoring. :D

Allan from down under.

Doheny's Pan American Gas, based in California. Doheny made his pile drilling in Mexico. In 1922 he was accused of being involved in Teapot Dome, but eventually was cleared. Pan American was the biggest oil company in the USA at the time. In 1954 the company merged with Standard of Indiana to form Amoco.

This is the type of gasoline filter/shutoff valve you should have on your Coupe. This one is missing the shutoff handle. You can see the handle in Dan Treace’s above photo. Jim Patrick

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I'm actually going with a style that is going to require very few bends.
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This is the one I did for the Rajo, much more work!
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Greetings,

The BBC Tour was formed 21 years ago as Brass In Bucks County it then moved to Berks County and eventually landed in Lancaster County and rebranded as Beautiful Brass Cars BBC It was never based in Lebanon County. This year it is in Gettysburg, Adams County and will start with a Car Show and Flea Market on Sunday May 15 located in the...

Thanks Tim. I've sent Bruce an email.

The boot toes curved up because he kicked a lot of butt! :o

It’s a Curtiss, flying out of Santa Maria,Cuba as painted on side of nose. Probably an early one since the wing supports were thicker over time.

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I ran across this picture in the Floyd Clymer book Sales and Service data Manual Model T Ford , on pg 39 of a sporty looking touring with wire wheels, gypsy curtains, top boot, stop light, and bumpers, but there are no rear bumpers in the picture, only front bumpers. Pg 37 has a similarly equipped runabout and rear bumpers are clearly evident on...

Everything under that hood looks very tidy, except for the pipe fittings. I'm thinking it was done on purpose to run kerosene, or a kerosene blend. As late as WWII, a lot of farmers had experience running kerosene in tractors, and it would have been practical to adapt a Model T to operate on cheap, available kerosene during WWII wartime...

Even that rear view of the car has plenty of interesting things going on.

Bill, the damage to your shell is testament to the need for the hood to fit correctly, at least at the front end. A poorly fitted hood will rapidly wear a brass shell if it is allowed to rub on the shell. I have saved one not quite so damaged as yours. It needed parts from a donor shell and a small fortune in 40% silver solder. I am not clever...

Thanks, I am not too stressed out about it. I will do what I can, but I am not going to try to straighten the frame or anything.

As I said, I found this when I was trying to fit the transmission support brace. It’s one of the commercially available ones, which was a bit of a disappointment. The holes were in odd places, which would have placed...

Maybe this can help. Hope it can.
There is also other Spartan horn information that’s available on the net.

Looks like about 60% done. Power steering is absurd. Windshield probably not legal. Is it metal? A canoe? J.C. Whitney headlights... Harley Davidson footboards ... fun car, if it runs and handles well.

Dan, that's really interesting, especially as your car is late August 1914. I had no idea that blue wheels lasted so late into the production. It aligns with the other note that blue may have been used longer than we generally think.

The 1922 center doors are even more interesting, and a little more elegant than usually thought. Were the hoods...

Check the set screws that hold the wire in the back of the socket, Sometimes you think they are tight but corrosion or whatever has stopped them from seating all the way. Just a thought. :shock: :shock:

Compression pressure might be a more accurate and supportable claim.

Agreed.
I wish I had taken accurate pressure tests after engines are broke in with various heads.

Tim

while the bearings are out, place them in a strong solvent and ultrasonic the daylights out of them, changing the solution periodically. The rollers will be packed with glitter from previous sleeves. The corruption that will come out will amaze you.

Note: you do NOT want to ultrasonic any kind of modern caged bearing as they will very likely...

Dan. I have a 1926 Holley NH. What type of carburetor is the text in your post referring to? I can’t see the carburetor well enough to see what type it is, but I don’t think a Holley NH has a “spray needle clamp nut”. Jim Patrick

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Jim

Just wanted to follow up on your carb. It has a nifty throttle...

Scroll down to Sat. Sept 17 in the thread below .
Terry Woods shows details of that one year only high volume iron Ford intake.

BTY, saw one purchased at Chickasha, was among others in a pile, but keen eyes picked it up!

As George said, 'shock' the screws. After shocking the screws a few times with a standard screwdriver, use an impact screwdriver, IF you have a bit that fits the screw well. A tapered bit, which most screwdrivers have, will just try to 'slide' out of the screw slot while turning it. An impact screwdriver will also shock the screws while turning...

Thanks that makes sense

Bryan:

Thank you for the reply.

My dad owns a 1900 Waverley Electric. The National Vehicle Company was founded by two former employees of the Waverley Branch of the American Bicycle Company and the earliest National Electric models built in 1901 are practically clones of 1900 Waverleys.

Charles E. Test was one of the original incorporators of...

Well, I’ll have to suffer the consequences of that. I didn’t see your responses till now, hours after I put it back together. I didn’t spend too much time polishing it, just a couple passes. I was able to get the hub on. Still a snug fit, though. Now to figure out the heavy all over vibration while in high gear….

Radiator shell
Head
Block
Running boards
Door hinges on my 26 Fordor are stamped Stanley made in Canada
+

Andy

From the website on the swap. Note, some like me arrive Thurs afternoon and partial set up, but go to dinner early, don’t expect much activity on Thurs but if weather is good, vendors set out stuff and trades happen.

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Appreciated Dan. See you there!

There is a Member search available on the Forum. Several options for selection. You need to be logged on for the member search option to be used.
When using Location you need to use both the State abbreviation and a second inquiry with some letters of the beginning of the State name (like tenne vs te to avoid getting members in Texas) the fields...

Are there any model t driver/mechanics older than Norman.

Art Mirtes

It would have looked great right where it was, when it was attached to one of the best preserved original cars I think I have ever seen.

All quite true. Modern hot rods are sometimes equipped with a steel scattershield to prevent injury of the driver or demolishing the car if a clutch pressure plate or flywheel fails at high RPM.

The NHRA requires a scattershield on any clutch-equipped car running an elapsed time (ET) of 11.49 seconds or less. Not sure whether this is for 1/4...

Looks like a waste of a lot of good parts to me. :( :( One of my pet peeves. :roll: JMHO Dave

Wow thanks all! These are great ideas. And yea es a period control knob would be awesome!

It appears to be dependent upon who's manufacture's name is on the neck base and when it was made.

This link indicates that there is a publication on oil cans by Mike Walters

Lots of discussion and many links (ignore the links to eBay as they are o longer active)

The I-Timer is simply a drop in replacement for an existing mechanical timer. Mechanical contacts which cause intermittent connection as well as timing variations as the contacts wear, are eliminated. In simple terms, a magnet on the camshaft revolves around four magnetic pickups in the timer body. The advantage of course is that cylinder to...

Thank you.
Norm

Thank you, Jerry. I used the battery connection on the switch. Jim Patrick

Got it. They buzz now. I first confirmed there was current going to the coil box. I then touched a wire from one of the head bolts to the top connection for each coil and they all buzzed. I then touched the wire from the block to each timer connection. No buzz. When I took the timer off, I discovered that the spring loaded roller was stuck tight...

thank you for the advise

Thanks for the information and link. I will post some photos and information on these two pigs I am now working on at a later date. ;)

Clutch disc hubs without the name Ford in script were produced before March 19, 1919. In fact Ford script was relatively rare on Model T parts before March 19, 1919 with exceptions being the top tank on brass radiators, radiator shells on black era cars, hub caps, and 1914 and later coil box switches. After March 19, Ford began putting Ford Script...

If your pan is as flat and true as indicated, I'd be at variance with not using heat. Bending the arm cold will require really tying down the pan if there are not to be stresses added while bending. Heat will allow the arm to be shifted with far less stress on the actual pan. Either way, the pan should be checked again after the correction.

Allan...

I personally prefer to weld them back up & ground the ball round. The ball should be 1.000 .

Sounds fearsome lot of filing and grinding - but I have done it too, just takes patience and time. (not bad for an accountant either ;-) )

Thanks everyone!
Kim= long slender end picture attached. if you have a replacement, let me know details
Cable (wound spring) is 55 end to end.
I will try attaching other pictures.'
Russ = thank you...I would like to send the cable to you for repair. I'd like to get the process started in case what I need turns out to be one of those unobtanium...

Yes, the pawl has a small finger that reaches under the quadrant and comes up on the its far side. This keeps the pawl in aligment with the quadrant, so it can't slip off to the right or left.

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The quadrant would fit behind the finger .

BTW, it helps us if you keep all related replies within the same thread, instead of starting...

Found - Thanks Don

The picture looks like a cover for the cowl tank. The wider doors might be a help getting in and out, especially on the driver's side. However, I wonder how a tall person could fit with the top up? We actually have some people who have trouble with the standard height of the windshield and top. Even I who am only 5' 7 tall look through the top...

It doesn't hurt to drill part way through the pin, to the depth of the handle That way you have a locator for the pin punch. If it still wont move, step up the drill size until it almost breaks out the side of the pin. The belt the pin punch on what remains in the pawl.

Allan from down under.

I have a pair of original Canadian acetylene head lights that are black and nickel plated brass