During the process of replacing the Ignition Switch I noticed several differences in the wiring of my Coupe and the wiring diagram I reviewed on the Texas T Parts website 26-27WiringDiagram.pdf (texastparts.com) and the actual wiring of my Coupe.
The dash light is properly connected as is wire #6 in the schematic which runs from the generator connection on the TERMINAL BLOCK to the GEN (+) of the Ammeter. The short connecting wire (YELLOW with BLACK TRACER) shown in the schematic connecting the GEN (+) terminal of the Ammeter to the Battery terminal is instead connected to the BAT (-) terminal of the Ammeter. The YELLOW wire (#20 on schematic) runs from the TERMINAL BLOCK to the BAT Terminal and has a 25 Amp fuse in it that is directly under the dash. I also found a toggle switch that is wired between the Battery and Coil posts on the Ignitions Switch. As things are now, the coils start buzzing when the toggle switch is placed in one position and they stop when placed in the opposite position and will only run using the toggle switch (NO KEY required). I plan to remove the Toggle Switch and its wiring.
I have the following questions:
1. Should I move the Short Connecting Wire (YELLOW WITH A BLACK TRACER) shown in the schematic back to the GEN (+) terminal of the Ammeter from the BAT (-) terminal of the Ammeter?
2. Are there things that I should look for since the vehicle was converted to 12 Volts, i.e., should I look for a resistor or any typical problems for this type of installation (Note: the generator was replaced with an alternator)?
3. When I purchased the Coupe it would not start, and the 25 Amp fuse was blown. After it was replaced the vehicle was easily started. Should this fuse be replaced with a 20 Amp fuse?
4. Are there any specific areas I consider that may cause a fuse to be blown?
For clarification I printed out and marked up a portion of the schematic mentioned above with what I found and placed it below.
