Help with a "new" T in Prince William, VA

[ecory0]

Anyone near Prince William, VA that would be able to help get a newly purchased model T started and some driving lessons. I'm happy to pay for good help. It was running a week ago but not sure what's going on now.

[Steve Jelf]

If you don't find somebody here or on any of the Facebook Model T pages, contact whichever local club is closest to you.https://www.modelt.org/chapter-listings.html

[Terry_007]

Lots of T folks in Va. We're a bit further south, but try contacting the Colonial Virginia Model T Ford Club.
https://www.cvmafc.com/
There is a contact tab on the website. Lots of good tech help available and there may be contact with other T closer you can contact through the Nation's Capital Model T Ford Club.
http://clubs.hemmings.com/ncmtfc/
I know there are other T clubs and members in the area too -

Describe the problems you are having here and I'm sure there will be some ideas to pursue.
Terry

[Dan Hatch]

You should have come to Luray a few weeks ago. Lots of T folks there and many were local. Look up the post for Luray and contact the locals . Dan

[ecory0]

Thank you! I’ll see what I can find in the listings. But if anyone reads this thread and is close you would be a lifesaver!

[ecory0]

As far as the problems I’m experiencing, I bought the car a couple weeks ago. Seemed to run well but being unfamiliar I stalled several times. It was also leaking fuel from the shutoff valve. I tightened what looks like the compression nut leading into the valve and losened the needle for the carb. If I let it sit for a while it will start and run for about 20 seconds and cut off. Then I can’t get it to start again.

[Terry_007]

https://covamodeltclub.weebly.com/ is the correct link for the Colonial Va Model T club - the link I provided originally was the Model A club.
The cut-off valve you refer to - is that the one on the sediment bulb under the gas tank? Or, is it a shut-off valve mounted on the carb fuel line itself. If you are unscrewing the carb needle valve you may be over-richening the fuel mixture. What year is the car? Some photos of the carb might be helplful. I'm sure others will chime in but it sounds like you could have a fuel issue and it might be simple to solve if we had a bit more info. If it starts, then runs a bit and stalls, you're not too far from running and enjoying it.
Terry

[ecory0]

Thank you Terry. Its the cut off valve at the carb fuel line. (finger pointing to it in the pic)
After reading some more i closed the carb needle and opened it a full turn. I have a 1924 Tudor with a Kingston carburetor. I tried to open the sediment valve under the gas tank (picture below) but wasn't able to. Need to figure that out too. It also looks like the shutoff valve arm at the top of the sediment bulb is broken? seems like just a nub.

[Duckwing]

You probably turned off the fuel before you took the photo but the valve is in the fuel off position isn’t it?

[ecory0]

Correct. The fuel line was open but I closed before taking the picture.

[Scott_Conger]

sediment bowl valve handle is broken off in mostly closed position
once car is running, you will want to repair/replace it as you will never achieve proper fuel flow for prolonged hill climbing or any sustained speed.

[John kuehn]

I would suggest that you get a new sediment bulb. Go the MTFCA and go to parts suppliers. Call Lang’s, Snyder’s and others as need be and ask for a parts catalog. They will send you one. You can order parts online of course also.
This is a good way to get acquainted with T parts and what fits where. You might have some catalogs already but they are good to have for reference.

You may have one already but the Ford T service manual is a must have for T owners along with other publications the MTFCA for T ‘s.

[Mopar_man]

Eli,
This is what it should look like.

Take a look at the MTFCA Main WEB page under the Research TAB. Lot's of good information there.

If you buy a new one ask if it has EZ Turn Lube on it. I think Lang's uses it. If they say no let me know I'm down in Fredericksburg and I let you have some. A tube of it is expensive and you don't need much.

[Duckwing]

I bought a reproduction 26/27 sediment bulb from Lang’s. Looks good and works nice. Don’t think you will be disappointed if the older model parts are same quality

[ecory0]

You are all awesome! That picture really helps see what it should look like and what I’m missing. The million dollar question now is how to get the gas out before replacing the bulb. I’m thinking open the line just before the carb and let it drain from there. May be slow since the sediment bulb valve is stuck halfway.

[speedytinc]

You can GENTLY tap the spring side of the valve handle & turn the stub to down. That will restore full fuel flow, so you can run it untill you get a new sediment bowl. You gotta be chomping @ the bit to run it, I would be. Running out of gas in 20 minuets is from that fuel valve. Lets not forget to replace that copper fuel line & compression fitting with a steel line.

Under the sediment bowl is a drain petcock. May need a little tap to open also.

[John kuehn]

Unscrew the pet cock on the bottom of the sediment bulb or you can unscrew the gas line at the carburetor. When and if you decide to remove the sediment bulb it may be pretty tight
so be sure to use the correct size wrench on it.
If you do decide to unscrew the pet cock on the bottom the gas may not seem to run out so get a wire and stick up in it. That usually does the trick!

[Dallas Landers]

Eli, you will not find a better bunch of people willing to help than here on this forum.

[ecory0]

I’m seeing that! Very grateful for the help.

[TWrenn]

I'll throw 2 cents in here...also, when you put your fuel line together, and the new sediment bulb onto the tank,
invest in a tube of Loctite 567. Best sealant on fuel lines, oil resistant, etc. I will even put a dab on the fitting
up at the carb with the felt seal, makes sure nothing leaks.

[ecory0]

Got it off!!