Get transmission bands round

[rlwellman]

I replaced old tired cotton bands with Kevlar. That and new spark plugs fixed a slew of noises and performance but the bands seem draggy - the car creeps and seems to have to work a bit harder than before. I suspect I did a poor job getting the bands perfectly round since I didn't have an old transmission drum to use. So before I break something, is there a good way to get them round without a drum or should I find or borrow and old drum from somewhere to do it right?

Thanks,
Rick

[TXGOAT2]

They may simply be adjusted too tight. If you can loosen them and still have a little pedal, that may help.

[speedytinc]

Anything perfectly round of the same diameter will work. They cant have a loop like cotton when riveted. You installed the bands with the hogs head off? NOT THRU THE INSPECTION COVER, being careful not to distort the band.

Adjust low with it running with the parking brake on. Loosen. Tighten until you just start to hear the triple gears changing tone. Back off 1/2 turn. Kevlar takes several adjustments before the are set.

Reverse can be CHECKED similarly. There should not be the kind of tripple gear noise you just heard during the low pedal adjustment. While running, press the pedal to remove the free play. The tripple gears should get noisier just AFTER the pedal starts to move outward.

Brake can be similarly CHECKED running, in gear with one wheel up.

Best to adjust with minimum pedal function. At least early on. But no slipping during engagement. Do not over tighten.

[Ruxstel24]

Did you replace the pedal notches or at least check them for wear ? Especially low...
With Kevlar, if they drag much you can damage your drums. If the notches are worn, it’s hard to get low to be tight enough and not drag.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

A small, (pre-26), parking brake drum makes a good "roundness gauge" for truing up bands. Usually easier to find and cheaper than a spare transmission drum.

[Allan]

John makes a very good point. The bands should be adjusted just firmly enough to be operational without any slipping. Avoid the temptation to give them an extra turn to save any consequent adjustment. It will take three or four adjustments as they run in, but after that they rarely require any more.

Allan from down under.

[Stephen_heatherly]

Did you install the linings on the bands correctly, riveting the ends on first then working towards the center? If not you will have gaps between the steel band and lining which will cause the bands to drag.

Stephen

[TXGOAT2]

How much clearance above the floor board does each pedal have when you step on it firmly with the car stopped and the engine off?

[Allan]

With the bands adjusted just enough for them to work as they should, the pedals could be all at sea. With bent pedals, worn pedal ramps, worn/machined drums, 'adjusted' pedal slots in the floor boards etc, no two cars will be alike, let alone set up as they were when new. The correct band adjustment should come first. Then the pedals, floor board slots, etc can be 'adjusted' to suit.

Hope this helps.
Allan from own under.

[TXGOAT2]

You're quite right, Allen, but if the pedals are high and firm, like on a modern car in good condition, it's very likely that the bands are too tight.

[rlwellman]

Thanks for the suggestions. I have been going slow adjusting. I followed the instructions riveting the linings (ends first and push the extra around to get good close contact with the band). Pedal to the floor boards barely does it for low and brake. I didn't know about checking the pedal cams so will look at that. I did take off the hogshead for the band install but wasn't as careful as i might have been at getting the bands round to start. May pull the hogshead and go at that again if the other suggested adjustments don't help.

Interesting that the kevlar "breaks in." How long does that take? Maybe I am overeager, too.

Many thanks,
Rick

[rlwellman]

I also have the old style hogshead but have bands with detachable ears. I put the reverse in with the detachable ear to the passenger side otherwise the transmission binds but didn't do that for the other bands as they didn't seem to be bothered in the past with cotton. Maybe that's not the case for Kevlar and I need to swap those around too. Once in a lifetime problem getting the Kevlar right maybe?

[Norman Kling]

One of the most common problems with the transmission is the wear on low cam and low notch. The low gets the most use of any of the pedals with possible exception of the brake. If you use auxiliary brakes, which are properly adjusted, the brake band will get less wear.
The problem with the low is that you need to move the pedal about half down into neutral before the low band is applied, so there is less tolerance in the adjustment than the other bands. When the cam and notch get worn, it is impossible to achieve the band loosness needed for neutral or even high gear. The proper adjustment would come when the pedal is below the floorboard. In order to get the pedal to stop above the floorboard, it is necessary to adjust the band too tight and it will drag in every gear including neutral except low. It is a chore to replace the notch and cam but well worth it for proper operation of the low pedal and preservation of the low drum.
Norm

[RajoRacer]

You profile states a 1914 - by "old style" cover, I'm assuming aluminum - which type of detachable band did you use - button or slotted ? The slotted type seem to have more interference issues than the button type as they're slightly lower profile.

[rlwellman]

Yup, it's the slotted kind and I have the old style aluminum cover. What was on the car. Someone thought the new bands were a good idea at the time. I'll just flip them around. Not with the car at the moment but will surely check the cams next in there.