Stop Light Switch

[FundyTides]

My 27 has a stop light switch, assembled by a previous owner, that is not very dependable. Snyder's has one that is described as an improved version that mounts on the Bendix housing. Has any one used this one and if so what was the result?

[FundyTides]

Sorry, here's the one I am referring to:
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/6a04 ... pid=981389

[mtntee20]

David,

The Bendix cover is a real pain to deal with in the vehicle. Adding more things to the cover is going to make the work even harder.

I am in the same position as you and am still considering other options. One being the switch mounting to the inspection cover. The other is to mount the switch to the rear and connect with a small chain. Make sure your choice will be in an "open"/un-powered position with the pedal up/released.

[Moxie26]

What does the installed stop light switch look like ?

[Moxie26]

Years ago I did use the Bendix cover mounted switch and it worked fine. I later switched, no pun intended, to a switch non-obtainable now since the manufacturer has gone belly up.

[Steve Jelf]

I made my own ball-cap-mounted brake light setup using mostly scraps and a spring I had on hand, and the least expensive pushbutton switch I could find at the local ACE.The switch most likely will wear out eventually, but so far it works fine. It's at 0:50 in the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lH85w4Yqhi4

[kmatt2]

The bendix cover mounted switch that you mentioned is a copy of the switch Ford used on the 1926 optional Ford brake light. I had a older version of repo switch on a 26 roadster I had. That switch would move around on the bendix cover, no matter how tight the lock screw was, and stop working. The better quality of the new US made switch would probably be ok.
The easiest switch to use is one made for a 1950 Chevrolet because it has a arm that works off the pedal forward motion instead of side motion like the Ford type switch. You will have to make a mounting bracket but it has 2 holes to mount it to your bracket. You can get a new type 1950 Chevrolet switch from, “The Filling Station”, a supplier of old Chevrolet parts in Oregon.

[A Whiteman]

Home made version on my RHD TT, but works fine on the lefter as well. Easy access, and few moving parts:

[Novice]

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attachment=0]51xr4D0jKZL._AC_SS450_.jpg[/attachment]

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I have two of the Bendix Brake light switches like Synder's sell in service with no problem. Bendix access is simple pull the floor boards.
Some use motorcycle brake light switches which work well and don't make contact with the Bendix.

[Humblej]

I have an original Ford bendix cover switch that I have been using for over 45 years with no problems. Cannot speak to the new repo bendix cover switch.

[FundyTides]

Thanks everyone for all the input. The one currently on the car is the arm type switch mounted on a bracket attached to the frame. It works ok except that the bracket tends to move and sometimes the light will stay on after the pedal is released. Before I replace it, maybe I will see if I can make a more stable bracket and maybe add a spring as shown in the picture above. If that doesn't work out, I will try the Snyder's one. I will post how it goes.

[DanTreace]

I have an original Ford bendix cover switch that I have been using for over 45 years with no problems. Cannot speak to the new repo bendix cover switch.

The originals were likely more robust, I too like the design on the Bendix cover. Better than over the hogshead inspection cover type, as you rarely disturb the Bendix cover. Solved the fit problem with the Repro, by placing strips of friction tape on the cover band, keeps it from slipping on a freshly painted slick Bendix cover

The problem with the imported early version of this Ford brake light switch was the contacts were very poor, and could not handle the juice from a pair of stop lamps, as I run dual rear stop lamps. So had to repair and finally thru the junk thing away.

Would like to also know if the "new Made in USA" repro Bendix cover switch is well made, would go that way again.

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Friction tape to prevent wiggle off the cover.

26 27 switch.jpg (63.97 KiB) Viewed 3074 times

Poor contacts inside the import version, had to repair and then secure the cover with Pop rivets, all the threaded shafts and nuts are metric.

192710.jpg (127.15 KiB) Viewed 3074 times

[TWrenn]

It's a shame no one has continued producing the Fun Project's brake light switch. It was by far the best around. Luckily I found 2 from private folks via this wonderful forum. Now all 3 of my T's have them.

[Original Smith]

It is good to hear that Snyders is now making the correct switch exactly as it was intended. I understand that reproduction design was faulty for years, and has now been corrected! I've been using genuine Ford originals for years with no problems.

[TRDxB2]

I thought about using a Model A style switch and making a bracket for it with a spring to the brake pedal held by hose clamp. Its a pull type. Of course they are out-of-stock

[RajoRacer]

I'm using one of the new Snyder's switches on the Centerdoor - been working fine for a couple years now - I've installed several on customer's cars and no negative feedback.

[jsaylor]

The bendix cover mount is the original style from Ford for the 27 year with factory stop light. I have the original one on my 27 Tudor and find it works quite well and has never been a problem interfering with maintenance. I like is so well I found another original and put it on my 21 Touring.

[Craig Leach]

The one that bolts to the inspection cove will interfere with some Acc. brakes.
Craig.

[CudaMan]

My '24 came to me in 2013 with a switch like the Snyder's one you showed. So far it's been trouble free.