Timer lube

[Hippie]

I was reading an older post on timer lube, some of the suggestions were non metallic grease, Vaseline , and oil. This post was 7 years ago, so I’m just seeing what anyone else was using. Thanks, Brent

[Scott_Conger]

Not all timers require lube, and the ones that do, tend to require different types of lubricant. Which timer are you refering to?

[Hippie]

Thanks Scott, I’m not sure which one it is,I’ll have to post a picture tomorrow

[Hippie]

Steve is this called a roller bearing timer

[Scott_Conger]

Well, you have an original style timer that is getting oil weeping from the engine if that is old oil I see in there. If you want, you can give a couple shots of clean oil in the oil cup that I think I see on the timer cover.

Once a year open it up, wipe it down, give another shot of oil on moving parts and close it up and then every few hundred miles, give a shot of clean oil. Since it's open now, start the wipe/lube regimine today.

Easy-peasey

[John kuehn]

Over the years folks have used different kinds of concoctions for timers One that is good is using a little STP mixed in with oil. It makes the oil slicker and it works pretty good.

[Hippie]

Steve that was clean oil I squirted in the oil cup, it seems to run well for about 30 miles, then starts running rough. I’ll clean it and try adding STP with the oil, thanks guys

[Scott_Conger]

It is nice to see the original metal seal shield in place. Behind it is the felt seal that keeps most engine oil out of the timer. When you think you need to, all you need to do is remove the roller assembly, lift out the brass shield and replace the felt...reassemble. Don't lose that shield. The repros are mysteriously the wrong dimension and cause no end of trouble.

I find it hard to believe that your timer will work for 30 miles and go south, only to get better with fiddling. I would more likely look for a loose "flag" connection on the 4 wires attached to the timer that needs resoldering, or that you are shorting out on a bolt coming up out of the crankcase/pan. The bolts should all come UP through the pan with a castle nut on top of each one EXCEPT for the bolt directly below the timer...that bolt should face DOWN with the nut on the bottom. This keeps things clear from shorting out. Another suggestion is to ensure all 4 coils are rebuilt properly and set to run as a set of 4.

Finally, if you are convinced or true evidence points to a bad timer (loose/worn roller which makes timeing quite variable or a rough surface on the bakelite/contact track which creates hopping of the roller), my preference is an Anderson or ANCO timer. It is a reproduction of a Period accessory timer which I have put many many miles on. With ANY timer change you may have to reset your timing slightly by bending the timer rod. You can GOOGLE that by "MTFCA timing adjust".

Good luck and have fun.

[Hippie]

Thanks again Scott, it’s a brand new wiring harness, it’s not grounding out at the bottom. Brand new coils and wood box as well. The number one cylinder seems to not be firing right after a short time. I move the coils and it is still number one. Engine is a new rebuild, checked compression all equal and good. It’s a new timer and cover, I may try the timers you mentioned. Thanks again

[Scott_Conger]

#1 always runs cooler and will be the one to foul first if it has any propensity to do so. You may try leaning the carb some. Old original Champion X plugs run the best in my cars. In my '13, Autolites would barely start the car (crank), and run poorly. Switching to Champion took care of starting and running. I fooled with modern plugs in inserts...car absolutely would not even pop, much less start. Plugs really can make a difference.

Sounds like you have a very solid start and will have this sorted out soon.

Only last thing I would suggest is that if you have never installed a T intake/exhaust manifold before (can be tricky), or have used paper gaskets, you might have a minor intake leak at 3/4 which will cause the car to want to run much richer to stay running and will very quickly foul #1 and eventually #2 if you run it long enough.

[Hippie]

My mechanic friend suggested I try filling the cap cover with synthetic grease and electrical grease mixed. I did that and didn’t seem to help, then I squirted some oil in thru the oil door, it has been running great for a while, I’ll see what it does tomorrow. I was going to check the manifold for a leak, but forgot. I read you can drip some oil around the intake gaskets, it will run rough if their is a leak. I’m thinking it’s not that as it does run well when the timer is cleaned and lubed( at least for a while). I may look into the timers you suggested as well. I think I’m on the right track. Thanks for the information, as I’m fairly new to this

[infotfordnl]

Maybe a stupid idea,
But is the cover lined up with the axle when you installed it?
Regards Bert

[Hippie]

Thanks Bert I will have to look into that, I’ll talk to the fellow who did the rebuild