Historical Question

Discuss all things Model T related.
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules

Topic author
Flyingpiper59
Posts: 140
Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2022 6:02 pm
First Name: Edwin
Last Name: Douglas
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 27 Tudor
Location: Millport, PA

Historical Question

Post by Flyingpiper59 » Sat Jun 10, 2023 10:26 am

I’m finally getting around to pulling the Hogshead today…. I hadn’t noticed it before, but I have got two pieces of iron that go from the upper portion of the engine block, where they were bolted, to the frame…… on other pictures I’ve seen of that area….they do not exist…. does anyone recall what year they were added?
I remember several people have written that the Hogshead was heavy and cantilevered, and it caused some issues with the crank…. The only thing I can come up with as to why these irons were added, was to stabilize the drivetrain from torque….does anyone know why they were added, it certainly could not have been to address the weight and the cantilever of the Hogshead …..I can’t see it doing anything for that…just some stability in the P factor of the engine when accelerated…muse away chums! And great weekend!


John Codman
Posts: 1481
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:27 am
First Name: John
Last Name: Codman
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Youring
Location: Naples, FL 34120

Re: Historical Question

Post by John Codman » Sat Jun 10, 2023 10:39 am

I'm not sure why they were added after 16 years of production, but I believe that they are '26 and '27 only.


Kevin Pharis
Posts: 1558
Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2019 3:54 pm
First Name: Kevin
Last Name: Pharis
Location: Sacramento CA
Contact:

Re: Historical Question

Post by Kevin Pharis » Sat Jun 10, 2023 10:51 am

The relatively common “pan ear replacement” and “belly band” era accessories along with the somewhat common arm failures found on the survivor parts suggest that pan arm failure was a fairly common thing back in the day. The improved hogshead and pan rail gussets made up for the weaker 4 dip pan, and these straps help reinforce the arms. Seems to me these changes came about during the ‘25 model year along with many of the other “improved” features that are better known as ‘26-‘27


Norman Kling
Posts: 4634
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
First Name: Norman
Last Name: Kling
Location: Alpine California

Re: Historical Question

Post by Norman Kling » Sat Jun 10, 2023 11:04 am

With the weaker 4 dip pan, the ball joint is connected to the rear of the crankcase, while the earlier 3 dip pan it was connected under the fourth dip. Also the two bolts and the straps tend to relieve the torque on the crankcase caused by the driveshaft. Both the torque of the engine and the reverse torque from the improved brake put a sideways movement on the crankcase which is relieved by the two straps. It will however over time tend to bend the frame causing it to sag on the right side. If your hood doesn't fit, it could be caused by a sag on the right side of the frame.
Norm


TrentB
Posts: 205
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 12:19 am
First Name: Trent
Last Name: Boggess
Location: New Hampshire

Re: Historical Question

Post by TrentB » Sat Jun 10, 2023 1:20 pm

Some years ago I found the story on the straps that run from the back of the engine block to the top of the pan arms in the Walter Fishliegh files, accession 94 in the Benson Ford Research Center. When the “Improved Cars” were introduced in the summer of 1925 they did not have these metal straps. Ford had been working on trying to reduce crankcase arm breakage and discovered that because of the design of the running board brackets, when people stepped on the running boards it tended to torque the frame side rails outward. This put quite a bit of strain on the crankcase arms often times causing them to break. This was not so much of a problem on earlier cars where the running board brackets were braced by the 1/2 steel rod that ran at the bottom between the left and right side brackets.

While this was a problem on cars, it was not as much of a problem on TT trucks where a metal strap runs across the the top of the frame where the rear running board brackets are attached. Fishliegh and the other Ford realized that they could achieve the same result on cars by running two steel straps from the back of the engine block to the top of the pan arms. They found this solution worked so well that they actually put a stop sale order out to the dealers while they produce enough of the straps to retrofit the cars dealers already had in stock as well as equip new cars being produced.

Respectfully Submitted,

Trent Boggess

User avatar

Ed Fuller
Posts: 786
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:06 pm
First Name: Ed
Last Name: Fuller
Location: NJ
Board Member Since: 2012

Re: Historical Question

Post by Ed Fuller » Sat Jun 10, 2023 3:00 pm

Thank you Trent for explaining the history behind the metal straps.

That is very interesting!

User avatar

DanTreace
Posts: 3812
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
First Name: Dan
Last Name: Treace
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘12 open express,'23 cutoff, '27 touring
Location: North Central FL
Board Member Since: 2000
Contact:

Re: Historical Question

Post by DanTreace » Sat Jun 10, 2023 4:15 pm

That new transmission cover for the Improved Car is shown in Nov. 1925 Service Bulletin, sans the straps. Gives info that the bolts and shims used are to secure the 4th main, to keep it true on the driving plate shaft.

26 27 hogshead.jpg
As for when used, can only find ref. in the later Jan. 27 Parts and Price List, for these, #3117 Brace, Arm to Trans Cover Left, and #3116 Brace, Right.

Earlier 1926 Parts and Price List don't show the braces. Once restored a really original Nov. '25 Improved Car, the motor didn't have the braces, but I added a set. Perhaps the early '26 didn't have them? The braces were added for the later 1926-1927 model years.

Do know when working on a 'shimmed' hogshead, and then adding the braces, when the bolts have to be removed, takes some care to prevent the shims from falling down and away. :o
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford


Original Smith
Posts: 3699
Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
First Name: Larry
Last Name: Smith
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
Location: Lomita, California
MTFCA Life Member: YES

Re: Historical Question

Post by Original Smith » Sun Jun 11, 2023 10:20 am

I once had a very late '25 block with the boss on the back for the bolts, but no bolt holes.

User avatar

Bill Robinson
Posts: 309
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 2:24 pm
First Name: Bill
Last Name: Robinson
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '21 Depot Hack, '25 Touring Car, '26 Roadster Pickup, '27 Tudor, & another '27 Tudor
Location: Salty Bottom, ALABAMA AL
Board Member Since: 1999
Contact:

Re: Historical Question

Post by Bill Robinson » Sun Jun 11, 2023 1:23 pm

Good info, Dan. I've worked on quite a few both old and professionally rebuilt 26 & 27 engines, and I have never known to shim those bolts, if needed. I've never have seen a late block that had shims present, either.
Now I know!

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic