Removing later paint layers?

[colonelpowers]

This isn't a T specific question but it is applicable to T's so I thought that I would ask the experts. I am working on an 1884 American Star High Wheel bicycle and it looks like much of the original finish is still present under a ca. 1950 repaint. Any ideas on how to just remove the later paint job? I am preparing to get my T ready to paint when it warms back up so your advice will likely be put to use on the T as well.

[DanTreace]

If your goal is to preserve the original finish, that most times is difficult to achieve. Depends mostly on what the top layer(s) are. Could be enamel or lacquer. Or how impervious the original layer of paint remains.

Would try a small area first, use enamel thinner and see if that removes any. Then try lacquer thinner. I have found success once using CitriStrip, it’s time effective, so wiped it off after just a few minutes. That removed the over layer, but left the original hard durable original base paint intact. You’ll just have to experiment.

[tvw]

Citri strip is said to work good, EZ off oven cleaner does the job. Either way or something else the key is to try a little first, vary the sitting time and find what works best on what you are removing and the make up of the paint you are trying to keep. Laquer thinner usually takes everything off in my experience. Go slowly!

[jiminbartow]

20 years ago,I bought a container of “3M Safest stripper” to strip some parts of paint. It worked incredibly slow, but did eventually, after several days, make a dent in the paint, so I swore I’d never used it again, but, since you need to go very slow, it may be just what you need to remove one layer at a time.

You might be able to use 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and sing water as a lubricant sand down until you can barely see the original layer through the very thin overlying layer, then using rubbing compound, remove the remaining thin layer until you are into the original layer. Jim Patrick

PS. If you don’t want to strip down to the bare metal, do not use lacquer thinner. It will remove lacquer and enamel even if it has dried. It works slower on dried Polyurethane but Polyurethane is a modern paint, not likely to be on your Velocipede. Mineral Spirits is for thinning oil based paints and cleaning brushes and equipment. It will not remove anything that has dried. Denatured Alcohol will remove Shellac, which was the paint of choice in the 1800’s and is most likely what the original paint is.

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[Erik Johnson]

You won't be able to save the underlying original paint but, if you do use chemical stripper, you should do it gingerly to remove the top layer first so you can at least reveal any original striping and then take photos and make drawings for reference.

My dad's 1900 Waverley Electric was sloppily brush-painted over the original paint at one point in time. My father was able to remove the top layer of paint with stripper in order to reveal the extensive and elaborate original striping on the wheels, running gear and body which he was able to have replicated when he restored the car.

[Norman Kling]

I agree with Erik. There was a reason why it was re-painted. Old paint was thin in parts or body work had been done or for any number of reasons. You can most likely find out the pattern of striping (if any) and the original color. Then you can match samples with new paint and re-paint the vehicle in the original color . Are you planning to ride that high wheeler? Must be very difficult to get started of to stop.
Norm

[colonelpowers]

I have ridden high wheels since I was a teenager but this one is going to take some practice. It is completely different from a regular high wheel.

. I hope that the attached picture loads but if not, look up an American Star High Wheel bicycle. There are a couple of videos on YouTube.

[Kaiser]

That one is 'bass ackwards'
What a funny contraption, great find !

[colonelpowers]

Hello Again. The old paint wasn't saveable but beneath it I found some nice remnants of nickel plating. What would you recommend to put on the oxidized steel and plating that is now exposed. I am planning on just wiping it down with an oily rag unless you tell me something better.

Thanks for your help.

[Erik Johnson]

Bar Keepers Friend powdered cleanser with water and rag or sponge is fantastic for cleaning-up/polishing old nickel plating. It's a mild abrasive with oxalic acid and won't harm the plating. It will also remove any rust blossoming through the plating.

Test on a small, inconspicuous spot first.

For long sessions, wear nitrile gloves when using Bar Keepers Friend.

After it is nice and dry, you can follow-up with by hand polishing with Silvo, Simichrome or the metal polish of your choice.

Or

Go further by by buffing the nickel plating on a wheel with the appropriate rouge/buffing compound. Then hand polish.

If the rust blossoming through the nickel plating is extensive, you can soak the piece in Evapo Rust. Be aware if any rust that has formed between the plating and the metal substrate, the affected plating may peel if you soak it in Evapo Rust.

[robert daniello]

I would use boiled linseed oil, the closest to an archival/reversible finish you will likely get, plus since it is a drying oil, it will not leave an oily mess. Keep the coat very thin, you aren't painting it, it may take a week or so to be fully dry. Put oily rags outdoors, preferably after soaking them with water as they release heat when the oil oxidizes and can combust, especially in warm places.