What engine oil should I avoid

[bmklawt]

My brain hurts from reading all the post about what engine oil is best for a Model T, I'm sure modern day oil is far superior to what was available when my car was new in 1927. I would like to know is there any oil or probable more appropriate to ask is there any additives I should avoid that could harm my engine. When I restored my 1929 John Deere D the consensus was to avoid oil with a certain additive, that I can remember, that would eat away at the bronze bushing, just wondering if the same is true for a Model T.

[Nv Bob]

Boy you opened up a can of worms here
When I had Ts I used whatever was the cheapest
Just nothing synthetic or blend of

[Norman Kling]

The usual idea is to use non detergent oil in an old engine which has used non detergent oil because the sludge is thrown all over the engine and the detergent will loosen it up and clog everything up. If the engine has been pulled and cleaned up, then you can start with detergent oil and it will not get clogged up. I use Valvoline which I get at Walmart. 10W-30. I also have an auxiliary oil line. But there are many opinions. So use what you want. Most important is not to get to heavy oil because it can move slowly through the oil line and possibly starve the front of the engine.
Norm

[Kerry]

Avoid Oil with graphite in it.

[dobro1956]

As Kerry mentioned. Do not use any oil with graphite. The graphite will short out the magneto, and it is almost impossible to ever remove all traces of it.

[TRDxB2]

If you have or intended to have the Magneto - you do not want any "additive" in the oil that is conductive. Graphite or zinc as can short out the mag post. There are always discussion about detergent & non-detergent oil & resulting slug build up. If you have never dropped the inspection cover on the transmission pan - now's a good time.
The original spec for model T was a light oil but engines have been modified and as a result owners have chosen an oil to meet their mods. As a result numerous recommendations.
Mobiloil "E" was a 20W oil - As recommended above, the least expensive 10w-30 is all that's needed. Expensive motor oils are for today's engine RPM's & tolerances.

[TWrenn]

God just use plain ol, good ol, Rotella T, 10W30 and fuggedabout it! It's the best oil on earth hands down, has the best amount of ZDDP in it for the controversial "lifter need" and quite frankly is one of the most affordable on the market yet today. WalMart and Menards sells it the cheapest, usually around $15/gallon.

[Steve Jelf]

What do the old light, medium, and heavy grades of oil of 100 years ago mean today?

https://modeltfordfix.com/care-and-feed ... d/#more-31

[Wingnut]

Joe Bell recommended Rotella 15-40 after he rebuilt my engines, I trust his judgement.

[TWrenn]

Joe Bell recommended Rotella 15-40 after he rebuilt my engines, I trust his judgement.

That or like I said, Rotella 10-30....not a heckuva difference, just great overall oil. Often WallyWorld does have the 10-40 on sale even cheaper than the 10-30. Joe does my engines too.

[Charlie B in N.J.]

10W30 after I couldn't start it during a cold snap when it had 30W non d in it. too thick.

[TWrenn]

10W30 after I couldn't start it during a cold snap when it had 30W non d in it. too thick.

Yeh I think we need to embrace today's multi-vis oils for that reason and forget trying to be using "authentic" straight 30 weight just because that's what they did back then. That's all they had. Imagine the work trying to crank one in January when it's zero outside!

[TXGOAT2]

Do NOT use thick, straight grade oil in a Model T. Do NOT use graphited oil or oil additives in a Model T. Multi-grade oils with a low first number are fine, such as 10/30 or 10W40. In hot weather, 20/50 is fine. Model T engines in fair to good condition do very well on multi-grade synthetic oils, including 0W20. For what it's worth, I have used detergent oil in dozens of very old and neglected engines, and never had any negative results. In many cases, use of detergent oil and additives such as Marvel Mystery Oil and Schaler Rislone have been of great benefit in freeing up stuck or clogged rings and noisy, gummy hydraulic valve lifters.

A Model T has friction bands in the transmission as well as a drum and band type service brake. I would expect graphite or teflon additives to cause issues with both. Graphite is known to be harmful to T magnetos. Model T engines were designed to run with quality, straight mineral oil of about 20W with a low cold test... which means an oil that resists thickening at low temperatures. Modern multi-grade oils meet and far exceed those specifications and offer many additional benefits as well.

I'm getting excellent results changing the oil in my (clean) engine at 1,000 miles, using 10W30 synthetic oil. I drive my car a lot on the open road at 40 + MPH, often in VERY hot weather, and I have had zero issues with bearings, valves, or excess leakage or oil burning.

I use a Garmin device to keep track of speed and miles traveled.

[DanTreace]

What do the old light, medium, and heavy grades of oil of 100 years ago mean today?

https://modeltfordfix.com/care-and-feed ... d/#more-31

To add to the selection of oil, this modern chart lists the various SAE oil viscosity for motor and gear lubes. The crankcase oil or motor oils are in the green column.

Have added the red numbers from an oil testing spec in a 1924 trade journal, to show the specs of high heat and low heat viscosity for Gargolye Mobiloil E, the preferred choice in the twenties for the Ford.

Should be the same today, a light motor oil , i.e.... SAE 20 w. Most times a 10w30w is great to use.

Gargoyle specs 1924.jpg (99.21 KiB) Viewed 2427 times

[TXGOAT2]

Rotella is a very high detergent oil, which would not concern me in the least. In older, neglected engines, change the oil as often as necessary to keep it reasonably clean, and use an accessory screen and magnet. With an old, dirty engine, it might be of benefit to run 50 miles or so on the road with fresh detergent oil, then drain the oil, hot, into a clean pan and let it settle overnight, then slowly and carefully pour the oil off into a clean container and examine the pan for debris. If the oil is still fairly clean, put it back in the engine and repeat the process.*** It's a good idea to remove the access cover on the crankcase on an old, dirty engine and clean out as much crud as you can, and check the rods for looseness.**

[George House]

Refrain from emu oil….

[Norman Kling]

Another thing to consider is Molybdnim. That is also bad for the magneto. And also the grease used for the universal joint should not contain any graphite or Moly because if you put a lot of grease there some can be forced through the 4th main into the engine oil.
Norm

[TXGOAT2]

That's a good point about Moly grease. I'd stick with the red tacky stuff.

[TXGOAT2]

I would not put Emu oil in the engine, but it might do a great job of loosening up stiff and rusty leaf springs...

[jiminbartow]

I heard Lithium is also conductive and should not be used in a Model T engine. Is this accurate? There is a white Lithium Grease that is available that some folks might use to lubricate the roller in a timer. Jim Patrick

[John kuehn]

Go to Wal-Mart, auto parts stores, Dollar stores etc and buy their store brand 10W30 and rest assured it will work just fine. It’s a world of difference better than any motor oil that was used in the Model T era. Don’t spend your money on exotic brands that have this and that in it and try to please everybody else. There will always be different opinions!
Don’t worry. A Model T won’t blow up by using any of the oil mentioned above. It ain’t rocket science.
And yes others will have different opinions as they always do.