Sediment Bulb Flange Removal?

[schwabd1]

OK, While I have my gas tank out fixing the leaking flange that the previous owner paid to have fully restored I thought I’d check out the sediment bulb that was supposed to have been gone through. Guess what!! It was packed full of stuff! I got most of it out by pounding the end on a 2 x 4 and running wire through it, but can’t get the bigger pieces out. This is an all brass bulb, but I can’t budge the flange the fuel line attaches to, I’m guessing the screen is probably shot. How do you hold onto the “potato”, I’ m having a hard time getting it in the vice to really crank on it, how much torque can the brass handle?

[Tadpole]

I’m sure you’ll get plenty of more informative answers, but I put the square flange in the vice and turned the “potato” off of it, wrapping the sediment bowl in a rag and carefully using a pipe wrench.

[schwabd1]

I tried that, but was afraid of breaking the brass potato. Maybe I’ll give it another shot.

[RajoRacer]

Heat it up then drop it in some water !

[TRDxB2]

Heating is a last step. First the sediment bulb may still have flammable residue in it. So you need to flush it out, it will still smell but should be okay. The next issue, if it was originally maintained,is that a lead washer, #2905 is used to seal the flange that the fuel line is connected to. Also the filter scree is soldered in place
To start remove the shutoff & petcock handles.
You need to use an 11/16 six point socket to remove the flange. Anything else will ruin its edges & you'll never get it off.
Put it a vice and try to get it off.
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If no luck a little heat may help, need to be careful not to melt the lead seal and have it bond to the brass. I haven't tried dropping it in water but its worth a shot too

[RajoRacer]

It won't blow up Frank ! Melt the lead gasket out & unscrew the damn thing.

[schwabd1]

Well, I got my biggest pipe wrench and gave it some pretty hefty yanks, it finally let loose. The chunks of stuff is what I couldn't get broken up. What's the best way to straighten the bent valve handle? There wasn't a lead gasket, but appears to have a copper one. Will this work? The pipe inside the bulb, is the side missing an issue?

[Allan]

A bent handle should no effect the operation of the unit. I would not risk breaking it off trying to straighten it.
On a second point, the seive in the side outlet is usually crimped in place. If it is soldered, it has likely been replaced at some time.

Allan from down under.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

There wasn't a lead gasket, but appears to have a copper one. Will this work?

I'm not seeing any gasket. Buy a new lead gasket. Clean the faces where the gasket will sit to remove any dents or scratches and to assure flatness.

As someone else mentioned, leave the handle bent as is. It will likely break if you try to straighten it.

[DanTreace]

There wasn't a lead gasket, but appears to have a copper one. Will this work? The pipe inside the bulb, is the side missing an issue?sed pieces.jpgsed pipe.jpg

That internal pipe is part of the casting on early sediment bulbs, yours may have been slight cast defect, won't hurt the flow of fuel. Do use a new lead gasket, and solder a new round screen onto the large brass nut. Many times the later iron bulb and brass nut are hard to remove, so heating up the iron bulb at the edges of the brass nut (which will also melt away the lead washer) and then placing the hot assembly in the freezer will allow separation as the iron cools away from the brass. The melted washer will be replaced with new anyway.

Handles and Large nut aren't reproduced, but you can get screens and lead washers and drain petcocks.

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[jiminbartow]

The below pictured fuel valve is currently for sale on eBay, item #224926067913, if you need a new handle, or parts. Buy it now price of $50.00 + $13.00 shipping. Jim Patrick

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