How much Calcium Carbide to use?

[Russ DeCrease]

I know the carbide use is variable based on the pellets and how much water you drip. BUT, does anyone have any rules of thumb such as X amount for 30 minutes or 1 hour?????? Hate to waste while experimenting to come up with my own since so many others have already done this.

[CudaMan]

When I was first experimenting with the E&J 366 headlamps on my 1912 Flanders 20, I found that a golf ball size pile of carbide and a water drip rate of 1 drop per second would keep both headlights lit for about 20 minutes. Open the headlight doors before starting the water flow, then wait a few seconds for the acetylene to reach the burners. Then lightly blow into the open headlamp just before lighting the burners to clear out any acetylene that may have built up inside. I used one of those long-nose lighters to light the lamps to keep my hand away from the burner when it lit. The lamps are surprisingly bright, Have fun!

One other thing - once the flow of acetylene stops, be sure to thoroughly rinse out the inside of the generator and basket with water, then let dry. The residue is messy and is nearly impossible to remove once it dries.

[Luxford]

Mark is spot on with his comments, to save the need to wash out, put the carbide into a plastic or glass contained with the carbide in it which will fit inside to catch the water. when you have finished remove it and wash out. a plastic bag would even work OK.

[TXGOAT2]

You don't want acetylene gas to accumulate. It can go off with a bang, even in open air. The carbide residue is probably pretty close to Plaster of Paris.

[JTT3]

Peter you do something that I do also with the exception I use a gallon zip lock freezer bag. I/2 cup of carbide at 60 drops a minute should go almost an hour. The E&J style basket cup holds almost a 1/2 cup & is great for granulated carbide. The JB & Victor style basket seems like carbide rocks were used. The carbide buckets handle is V shaped but has holes in to distribute the water though maybe granulated carbide may have been used in the handle. I doubt it though because they always seem very clean compared to the basket & water catch bucket. Just my opinion your mileage may vary. Best John

[M.Sinclair]

In a similar vein, does anyone have any tricks for getting old built up carbide residue out of a generator. I just got a generator and the inside is pretty filthy and the gunk seems to be stuck pretty good. Is there a chemical way to remove it that won’t hurt the brass or do I just have to block out a day and pretend to be an archeologist?
Thanks,
Matthew

[1923Touring]

In a similar vein, does anyone have any tricks for getting old built up carbide residue out of a generator. I just got a generator and the inside is pretty filthy and the gunk seems to be stuck pretty good. Is there a chemical way to remove it that won’t hurt the brass or do I just have to block out a day and pretend to be an archeologist?
Thanks,
Matthew

Has anyone tried to use glycerine to clean out these deposits? Looking at the chemistry it seems to be worth a try.

[Charlie B in N.J.]

I suppose water won’t “reactivate” it? Seems too simple really.

[jab35]

Charlie: The spent, dried carbide residue is calcium carbonate-Limestone. Acidic cleaners like CLR will eventually dissolve the carbonate but acid and antique brass also react so be vigilant. The reason the residue is soft and easier to remove right after use is the spent carbide material undergoes additional reaction after the acetylene is released by reaction with water. Calcium Hydroxide is the wet mushy somewhat easily removed and rinsed away substance that is formed first. That is chemically the same as whitewash, or the 'lime' in lime mortar. If left to dry the mixture sets up pretty quickly, and if not removed the hydroxide slowly reacts with carbon dioxide in the atmosphere to form Calcium Carbonate-Limestone and that stuff tends to stay put. No, unfortunately, plain water will not remove it. Best, jb

[TRDxB2]

Charlie: The spent, dried carbide residue is calcium carbonate-Limestone. Acidic cleaners like CLR will eventually dissolve the carbonate but acid and antique brass also react so be vigilant. The reason the residue is soft and easier to remove right after use is the spent carbide material undergoes additional reaction after the acetylene is released by reaction with water. Calcium Hydroxide is the wet mushy somewhat easily removed and rinsed away substance that is formed first. That is chemically the same as whitewash, or the 'lime' in lime mortar. If left to dry the mixture sets up pretty quickly, and if not removed the hydroxide slowly reacts with carbon dioxide in the atmosphere to form Calcium Carbonate-Limestone and that stuff tends to stay put. No, unfortunately, plain water will not remove it. Best, jb

Couldn't he use cleaning vinegar - not sure if 30% is too much - or if the regular stuff is enough. Cheaper ?

[jab35]

Frank:

Vinegar-Acetic acid like all acids will react with limestone (ie, 'dissolve' Calcium Carbonite). The more concentrated the acid the faster the reaction, but that reactionalso involves the brass parts, unfortunately. I mention CLR because I've had good results using it, but vinegar, citric acid even diluted strong mineral acids will react with the carbonate, the 'bubbling' you observe is CO-2, that the acid 'liberates' from the Calcium carbonate. The more concentrated the acid, the more bubbling, and occasional gentle agitation allows better contact of the acid with the lime. If the parts are totally encrusted, a long soak in 'vinegar' with frequent checks would be a way to start. The stronger the concentration, the more frequent the checks, at least that's what I would do. If the encrustation is affecting function, then cleaning is probably necessary but if it's for cosmetic reasons, I'd leave it alone . Just mho, good luck jb

[Tmooreheadf]

There are some commercial brick cleaners that are used to remove mortar splash from masonary surfaces. They contain muractic acid mixed with some soap compounds which might work. We dilute with water as recommended on the instructions.

[Drkbp]

Bryan,
Before you use the carbide I recommend you check your light system: gas light burners,
burner bases, hose and rear gas line with an acetylene MC or B tank. I would take the
mirrors out of the headlamps if you do it in the car outside your shop.

Once you get the proper flame and check for leaks, then put the mirrors back in and properly
align the burners on the bases. Carbide is a lot more expensive than tank gas and then you
are only adjusting how much carbide and drip rate.

Mark has answered a good "show how it works" with the least mess. I just checked Karst Sports
and see ten pounds of 1/4" to 1/2" carbide is $174.95. Your two 3/4 cubic foot burner headlamps
use a little less than a 1/4-pound of carbide per thirty minutes.