Some general questions

[LittleTimmy52]

I have a wide variety of questions, from steering to something electrical, to missing parts, to operation. I will start with steering, my gears are actually fine, the steering is fine, there is just one linkage looking thing that has all the play in my steering system, its this part where the column rotates a bar which moves the other bars that turn the wheels, the part where the first bar on the column connects to the other bars has the slop, and apart from replacing this part, is there any fix, or is it a remove and replace? Next is an electrical issue, setting the coil to battery the coils don't come on all the time, and based on the noises, not all either, its hit or miss on battery, and hitting the starter also changes this, hitting the starter button trying to start either makes more or less coils turn on so say its on battery no coil sound, i hit the starter and for instance 2 come on, i try again, there all on, again there all off, its like its random, on mag I get no issues, and once the engine is spinning it runs fine to even on battery, I did clean the switch out it works fine, i have no clue. another electrical question, will 2 12v bulbs be fine in for the magneto lights? now, I am having a hard time tracking the magneto horn, my t had it removed some point in time before the previous owners ownership, I can only seem to find battery horns, i doubt itl be fine to use the battery horn unless I rewire, but I want it to be more original, so I wont be doing that. does anyone have a list of the different hold downs for the older style touring top, I think I got all the hardware, but I don't know what all I need in the straps/hold down department of it. Now I have a question on the spark lever, there's a big notch, the lever goes down to the notch, it'll stay, but going past and it goes back up, is the big notch its max? and do I move it at all during driving?, I tend to leave it at the big notch once it warms up a bit after starting, should I be moving it? if so, when and under what conditions? is there any driving habits that may also increase its lifespan? I already know that a controlled stomp is better than feathering in terms of the pedals, and I keep an eye on the fluids and lubrication, but what else do I do? Also maintenance, what needs to be adjusted and relatively when? do valves need to be adjusted, does anything need to be changed out?, basically how do I keep my engine spinning right, and for another hundred years? Lastly, I plan on using it more when the government decides to call me, take my money, and mail me my horseless carriage tag I've been waiting a week for and counting for their call, how do I stop someone from looking up how to start the t, and drive it off? its a 17 that had a starter installed, so no real key, and its easier to start, is there a wheel boot or something? or a steering lock? basically any anti theft that dosen't need screwing into the t unlike the pedal lock i see here and there. Any help is appreciated as I am lacking in knowledge and always appreciate it when I gain some.

One of these days I need to get a hold of the service literature like the owners manual and such, well the hard copy, someone shared with me a site with them online, but I don't like reading off my computer, I should print it out or something.

[John.Zibell]

I suggest you make a separate post on each issue. Too many in one post to be answered thoroughly. Also get in touch with other T owners in your area as they can give first hand help.

[600wt]

LittleTimmy52- I don't understand- where is the setting on a coil to make it function on battery? Personally, I've never seen the switch that's on a coil. Is yours an original FORD coil?

You wrote "Next is an electrical issue, setting the coil to battery the coils don't come on all the time, and based on the noises, not all either, its hit or miss on battery, and hitting the starter also changes this, hitting the starter button trying to start either makes more or less coils turn on so say its on battery no coil sound, i hit the starter and for instance 2 come on, i try again, there all on, again there all off, its like its random, on mag I get no issues, and once the engine is spinning it runs fine to even on battery, I did clean the switch out it works fine, i have no clue."

Be careful swapping wiring connections around. Because...while swapping (and it will be easy!) to have DC current from the battery make contact with the magneto wiring....the magneto uses ONLY AC current. A MAJOR problem occurs if DC is connected to the magneto wiring.....the magnets will de-magnetize. The magnets will require being re-magnetized. My advice is to purchase the black manual before you go any farther. Hey! I've been there!

[Mark Nunn]

The "bar" on the end of your steering column is the pitman arm. It has a ball where it connects to the drag link. The ball gets worn down if it's not greased properly. The pitman arm is replaceable and you can buy a new one from the vendors if you wish. Another option is to build up the ball with weld and grind it to a proper round shape. I did that on my wishbone and it is a tedious process. If the ball is worn, expect that the drag ling end is worn too.

You should stop trying to test the coils by running the starter. That will tell you nothing of value. Use the hand crank to turn the engine slowly with the switch on battery. Each coil will buzz in succession in the firing order of 1243. They will fire at 90 degree intervals. Keep turning the crank and the coil buzz will stop until you get to the next timer contact. If all buzz, then your ignition is functional (but timing and coils may need adjustment for best performance). And don't let any buzz for a long time, That's bad for them.

[Mark Gregush]

Owners manuals and service books can be found on sites such as Langs or Snyders, not hard to find.
https://www.modeltford.com/item/T1.aspx
Because it has an added starter I would go with a bit later owners manual
https://www.modeltford.com/item/T19.aspx

Next is an electrical issue, setting the coil to battery the coils don't come on all the time, and based on the noises, not all either, its hit or miss on battery, and hitting the starter also changes this, hitting the starter button trying to start either makes more or less coils turn on so say its on battery no coil sound, i hit the starter and for instance 2 come on, i try again, there all on, again there all off, its like its random, on mag I get no issues, and once the engine is spinning it runs fine to even on battery, I did clean the switch out it works fine, i have no clue.

The coils don't fire all the time, just when each coil is grounded at the timer. Don't need to as said above, to use the starter, use the hand crank to test for the coils working. The firing order is 1243. Suggest doing this with the plugs out, hooked up laying on the head. If you leave the plugs in, don't wrap your thumb around the crank and only pull up using your left hand.

Now I have a question on the spark lever, there's a big notch, the lever goes down to the notch, it'll stay, but going past and it goes back up, is the big notch its max? and do I move it at all during driving?, I tend to leave it at the big notch once it warms up a bit after starting, should I be moving it? if so, when and under what conditions? is there any driving habits that may also increase its lifespan?

Should not be a big notch, the quadrant should have a bunch of notches so spark can be adjusted to condition. Each car is different because of how the timer is adjusted etc, so saying where the spark lever should be can only be answered as a "in general" it should be about this far down the quadrant. The timer should be set with the spark lever all the up to fire just after top dead center to avoid kick back then adjust to where it runs best as the conditions warrant.

[Mike Silbert]

Lucas,

So many questions in one thread it is going to get confusing.
Connect with other owners locally and a lot of questions will be answered.
It does not seem like you are testing the spark correctly and need a better procedure.

The pitman arm - https://www.modeltford.com/item/3547.aspx needs to be inspected.
The ball needs to be round and no other wear or cracks.
The drag link cap - https://www.modeltford.com/item/2728ST.aspx - needs to be checked for wear or refitted

Model T Keys.
I take the key out of my car not because I think someone will steal the car but steal the key.
Turn off the gas and they will only get 2 blocks away before it quits.
The anti theft these days is only owners know how to start and drive them.
If someone really wants to steal it they will tow it away and not start and drive it.

[Norman Kling]

I would have to look at your car to be able to completely understand what's going on. If it has an original T starter it would have a 6 volt battery, but some u se a 12 volt battery. This would also affect the lights and horn. Also whether the lights are working on battery or still connected to the magneto.
Concerning theft. Depends on your neighborhood and whether or not you park inside a locked garage. I have parked them outside and no one has touched them, however I live at the last house on a private gravel road. If you live in a more populated area and park near the street, someone might come around. Unlikely anyone would steal a T. Too easy to spot it if parked outside. Also not a very big market to sell a T or T parts. Some people might take small parts such as the key of the radiator cap or some easy to remove part. I have taken my T on tours where we stay in a hotel or motel and the cars are parked in an area away from the building. No one has stolen anything. Almost no one other than T owners or close friends of family would even know how to start or even tow a T.
Norm

[TXGOAT2]

You need to get someone with T experience to introduce you to your car and demonstrate how to start and run it safely, and look it over for any significant problems that it may have. It should de fairly easy to get help and advice in Florida, as well as on this site. You need a copy of the owner's manual and the repair manual. I believe there are number of club chapters in Florida and club meets and activities several times a year. If the engine runs OK, the coils are probably OK. Starting a Model T with the hand crank can be dangerous, and it's important to follow the correct procedure when using the hand crank or the electric starter. Model T's do not have very good brakes. Driving the car is very different from driving modern cars, so it's a good idea to practice handing the car in an open area away from traffic and obstacles, people, and pets.

[John kuehn]

As others have mentioned you need to get the Ford Service Book and the other manuals that go along with the major components of the car that’s also covered in the Ford service book.
Hopefully there is someone close to you that has a T that also can help you.

Read and learn to understand how a T runs and operates BEFORE working on the car. In other words read the instructions.
Remember a T is 100 year old technology and does not use a computer as today’s cars do.

When you do get to the point of driving your T regularly always remember T’s DONT have real brakes. The engine also acts as an engine brake going down hills and stopping. That’s basic to a T and learned as you begin to drive one. Another good manual to get is a T operators manual. Good luck and welcome to the world of Model T’s.

[TRDxB2]

I have a wide variety of questions, from steering to something electrical, to missing parts, to operation. I will start with steering, my gears are actually fine, the steering is fine, there is just one linkage looking thing that has all the play in my steering system, its this part where the column rotates a bar which moves the other bars that turn the wheels, the part where the first bar on the column connects to the other bars has the slop, and apart from replacing this part, is there any fix, or is it a remove and replace?

One of these days I need to get a hold of the service literature like the owners manual and such, well the hard copy, someone shared with me a site with them online, but I don't like reading off my computer, I should print it out or something.

Here is a diagram referencing steering part names
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Just some pictures to help visualize/understand what wear looks like. Basically all the ball/socket combinations share the same wear issues, worn ball or socket caused by lack of grease. The tie rod bolt wear either in the bolt and/or the yoke
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Arrows point to wear zones

[jab35]

And check the bushing in the frame bracket that supports the end of the "steering gear post" near the pitman arm. jb

[Allan]

Lucas, I took one look at the long single paragraph you posted and skipped it. Take John's advice and break it down into one question at a time. That way we contributors will remain somewhat more focused!

Allan from down under.

[LittleTimmy52]

Thanks for the insightful answers, sorry for the boat load of questions, i asked all at once because id forget some questions i had, but ill go 1 or 2 at a time as advised. I may be inexperienced, but I started, and drove it without blowing it up before, i was just cautiously asking, i did no work apart from a coolant and oil change. so since the coils go in sequence and not at once like i thought then electrically its all fine then, the steering was cleared up a few times, and all I still am unclear of is the spark lever, how it goes to the big notch but going past and letting go makes it roll back to the big notch, but ill just make a new topic in relation to better driving habits of the t. I am ordering a physical manual from langs along with some other parts. Thanks for the responses, i am now just a bit less uninformed.

[Will_Vanderburg]

The steering column is connected to the drag link by a pitman arm. APCO made an accessory linkage that could be adjusted to take up the slop.

I have one on each of my cars. It’s a ball cap that has a slotted set screw that’s kept in place by a cotter pin.

You can buy them from reputable parts suppliers like Lang’s

[Will_Vanderburg]

Do yourself a favor and get the large print service manual. The pictures are better quality.

[Original Smith]

One thing I suggest. Get your terminology correct! It is all in the service book. You can tighten up your steering parts by carefully filing the caps and rods. I use the old fiberous wheel bearing grease in those areas.

[Oldav8tor]

I agree - post individual questions with photos. Use available literature to try to learn the correct names for parts because otherwise we are left guessing.
Another area where you'll get slop in the steering is found in the bracket at the bottom of the steering shaft. There are one or two bushings in the casting that get worn and allow the shaft some movement that impacts the sloppiness of the steering. We replaced the bushings in a friends car and it really tightened up the steering in his case.
Others have pointed out that worn bushings or balls anywhere in the front end will contribute to steering issues. To repair some of them requires special tools, another reasons to connect with a club or individuals in your area.

Lower steering shaft bracket

[Steve Jelf]

Tim, what's that odd-looking thing between the arrows?

[CudaMan]

To me, it looks like an additional grease zerk to lube the lower bearing of the steering shaft support.

[RajoRacer]

To which I consider a valuable install !