MY 1924 coupe and experiences as a new driver/owner

[WillyR]

The journey:

Last fall I joined this forum.

Shortly after I found a local model T club and joined, along with my 12 year old son.

I was immediately welcomed and impressed by the people as well as the car. (the club has work days regularly at least 1 -2 per month)

I wasn't completely prepared to get a car... but I was inspired to begin looking.

I looked at a few, and decided I didn't want a 2 year project as my first car, nor did I want a rolling project (I have done that too many times).

I also did not want an alternator or a distributor on my first T. but I do want some safety features.. turn signals and seat belts...

The car:

A club member had the November 1924 coupe I ended up purchasing just this past weekend. Paint and interior maybe 30+years ago restored, and mechanical restoration in the last 15 years by the gentleman I purchased it from.

Mechanical included aluminimum pistons, hi comp head, floating hubs etc... I'm not sure how long the rocky mtn brakes have been on her... I don't remember if I asked...

The thing is better than 99% of museum pieces I have seen.

So I guess it would be a 1925 model year and has features of such, but it is registered as a 1924.

I was provided with a binder with pictures of it as a barn find in the 80's I believe. I even have the original registration from 1926.

I am about the 5th owner give or take an owner....

My driving experience:

I know some of you have been driving T's since you took ownership from the dealer...

Just this past Saturday the funds for purchase cleared, and I did the paperwork during a club work day and began installing turn signals.

I had still not driven a model T.

Going back last fall/winter at the first club work day we attended, the host of the work day had his Montana 500 race car out, and next thing I know my 12 year old son is driving around in it... again I had not yet driven a t....

SO the former owner of my T has me in a field this past Saturday, and we are doing circles and figure 8's in low band for my first driving lesson. (which to my understanding is the level of training a new model t owner would get from the dealer at time of purchase)

I spent the rest of the day mounting and wiring up my turn signals, but I didn't have it completed by the time I had to leave, so I left the car there.

I come out the next day to button up a few things and shortly thereafter head out to run some errands, eat dinner etc... all while driving my T out on the road for the first time....

I still didn't have the turn signals finished so I used hands signals that no one knows what they mean, even if they did look up from their phones.

SO impressions as a new driver, and I hope this helps some new drivers...

Switch to mag.... don't forget...

I have a decent mechanical knowledge, and can drive a manual transmission on the tree and otherwise...

The switch between lo and hi band is pretty simple, adjusting the throttle down prior to going into neutral is easy enough. it's all coordination between neutral and braking. I took to it fairly quickly.

I had watched as many videos as I could find on models T's on driving and what to expect. and I'm not super impressed with the driving impressions I got vs, my 4 days of experience in a well tuned veekle....

I have rocky mountain brakes, and I am impressed by how well they work, but I don't have a comparison to one without them.....

From most of the videos I watched I was under the impression I might be able to 37mph downhill.... but I'm going to have to throw out the bullshit flag on that one...

using a gps speedometer, I have easily gotten to 45mph on the flats, and backed off due to traffic conditions.

She is slow as hell going up hill.... I do not have a Ruckstell but will soon, I am aware it won't improve speed uphill.....

maybe the youtubers need a tune up...

Headlights and lighting, I have stock headlight bulbs currently, and while there is little to no difference between dim and high beams, the lighting is more than adequate on surface streets with the street lights on..

There are/were a few adjustments that needed to be done to the car and I asked for them to be left when purchasing was discussed and I would do them. so last night I did those..

the Rockys seem to be adjusted where I would put them along with the brake trans band.

The reverse band was on the loose side and I cranked a few more turns than I expected but I do believe I have it just about perfect, the main band was given about a full turn and I like it better now, with my vast amounts f model T driving experience.

The carb may have had the low bleed by, blocked, or butterfly wear, but it seems to be running better now, the idle was a little low, it may be a little high but I'm zoning in on it and may have it just right....

in the upcoming weeks months I would like an experienced t driver risk their life riding along with me to see if there is anything I can improve upon, but so far I think I'm doing alright.

I have been so busy enjoying my T that I haven't been able to take some of the detailed pics yet but I'll get those in the next few days.

[Norman Kling]

A few things, I would say. One is seat belts. If you fasten them to the body sills, They will hold you in the body. If the body comes detached from the chassis, they will not cut off your legs. However if you attach to the chassis, you might be caught by the belt when the body separates. Only happens in a very bad accident. So think carefully before you attach seat belts The other thing is when you go downhill. Don't depend completely on the brakes. Best to shift down or use the low pedal and the brake for going down a very steep hill. Don't use reverse pedal to stop because it will overheat the drum. Pull on the hand brake if necessary, but remember it puts you in neutral so you lose the compression of the engine to slow you. So best to go down hill slowly and pump the brake to get oil on the drum. Also, Rocky mountain brakes don't work in reverse, so be careful when you back up on a hill you will only have the transmission brake and the hand brake.
I wish I were there to help you, but too far to commute.
Norm

[George House]

Congratulations on the acquisition WillyR. And May I be the first of many to wilkommen you to our common affliction. I greatly enjoyed reading your ‘short story’, especially your humor. But don’t forget your 12 year old son as you increase your Model T fun Sounds like you have a good running coupe; increasing your driving skills adequately but consider that Model Ts are maintenance significant. On your next parts order to one of our vendors, include buying a lubrication chart. Frame it and abide by it. I’ll now let others suggest needed publications and the dauntless geezer will undoubtedly chime in.

[Steve Jelf]

Welcome to the affliction. There are a few rules to keep in mind.
1 They're all different.
2 Not everything you find on your "new" T necessarily belongs there.
3 There is more information available than you will ever learn (you need references).

Many people disagree, but experience has taught me to have running board cans, and to never leave home without them.

You may find some of these articles helpful:
https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG52.html

[WillyR]

A few things, I would say. One is seat belts. If you fasten them to the body sills, They will hold you in the body. If the body comes detached from the chassis, they will not cut off your legs. However if you attach to the chassis, you might be caught by the belt when the body separates. Only happens in a very bad accident. So think carefully before you attach seat belts The other thing is when you go downhill. Don't depend completely on the brakes. Best to shift down or use the low pedal and the brake for going down a very steep hill. Don't use reverse pedal to stop because it will overheat the drum. Pull on the hand brake if necessary, but remember it puts you in neutral so you lose the compression of the engine to slow you. So best to go down hill slowly and pump the brake to get oil on the drum. Also, Rocky mountain brakes don't work in reverse, so be careful when you back up on a hill you will only have the transmission brake and the hand brake.
I wish I were there to help you, but too far to commute.
Norm

Thanks Norm,

The sill at the rear of the seat is extremely thin, and the center mount for the seat belt/belts is the biggest conundrum. IF I can reinforce that with wood the full length, I may be able to use it for all the mounts. I'm pondering that. I did read early on about avoiding frame mounting. I hope to resolve that this weekend. I have a couple oak pallets to scrounge the wood supply, and I have rectangular steel reinforcing plates for the backside.

I did hear that older rockys did stop better in reverse than modern ones, and I'm not positive how old my rockys are, so far in reverse, I'm just backing out of parking spaces, so no real world experience there. and I'm able to control at those slow speeds...

so far on the downhills I have come across I have been able to engine brake sufficiently. I am apprehensive on what speeds and applications I can go into low band, I don't want to damage anything. I have big feet and while I can engage reverse well enough for backing up, I doubt I could engage reverse for an emergency stop. I am buying the reverse pedal extension, but I'm not certain I really need it, but it looks cool... I don't think the hand brake would be something I would employ in an emergency just because of the loss of engine braking.

I do have a weekly drive that would involve a mountainous area, but I do not believe I will try it in a T until I get my ruckstell, but maybe if I leave early enough.....

ohh I did actually pass someone angrily on the way to work this morning... I think they were daydreaming in the slow lane...

I do have very good resources here locally, it's learning which questions to ask that is new to me.

[WillyR]

Welcome to the affliction. There are a few rules to keep in mind.
1 They're all different.
2 Not everything you find on your "new" T necessarily belongs there.
3 There is more information available than you will ever learn (you need references).

Many people disagree, but experience has taught me to have running board cans, and to never leave home without them.

You may find some of these articles helpful:
https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG52.html

Thanks for that link, Steve.

I already have the McCalley book, given to me by a club member along with a rather large service manual. I'm gathering as much information as I can.

I'm already looking at a pieces and parts 24 pickup.... and it may likely end up being my Montana 500 car....

My coupe is very clean looking but I'm eyeballing running board cans and tool boxes, and the expanded metal luggage carrier things... I'm trying to avoid going all out beverly hillbillies... but it's a fine line....

[WillyR]

Here are some preliminary pictures….

Installing turn signals





The driving expert.



I think my son has a case for getting a new phone… is that a tin type?




Home for the first time.

[JohnM]

Nice car!!! Welcome! Your son may take quicker to driving the T, his mind isn't cluttered yet with what he thinks he knows about driving a car.

[TXGOAT2]

When you get more used to driving the car, You can find a place with minimum traffic and learn how to use the spark advance and carburetor control to the best advantage for easy starting and best performance and economy. Low gear is good for 10 MPH or less. Reverse is even slower. Model Ts in good condition handle safely and predictably, but don't go fast in reverse, and never let the car get rolling backward downhill. The steering behaves very differently when moving backward. With a little practice, you can shift from low to high as smoothly as a modern automatic transmission. On anything close to level ground, it's best to shift from low to high at 6 to 8 MPH or a little less. Using the throttle and spark advance properly will give the best performance and smoothest operation. Model Ts need frequent oiling at a number of points and regular greasing at a few critical points. Modern 10W30 oil, regular or synthetic, does a good job in the crankcase under all normal conditions. In very cold weather, a lighter oil is best. Don't put thick oil in the crankcase, and don't over-fill it. Read and follow Ford's recommendations for oil capacity and the best engine oil level. Ford recommended a quality "medium" oil, with is about what today's 20W is. 10W30 does a fine job under most conditions. Be careful hand-cranking the car.
It can be done safely, but correct procedures MUST be followed, or injury can result, or damage to the electric starter. Always double-check all control settings before starting the car, whether by hand crank or electric starter. Be aware that the car may start instantly when the ignition key is turned to "Battery", without any cranking at all. Never leave the key in the switch when kids are around. Always set the parking brake firmly when starting the car or when parking it, and leave the spark lever in the retarded position and the throttle lever in the idle position.

[DHort]

You know your son already owns that car even if it is your name on the title.
Better start looking for another car so you have one.

[WillyR]

I didn't get to drive her today......

BUT I did get to take her 11.1 miles each way to and from work the last few days.

It did take me a bit to get her started after work yesterday, I couldn't tell what the problem was, maybe I'll pull a plug or two and check fouling, maybe I was choking it too much, not sure...

there are a couple of spots with stop and go traffic, so I'm getting practice with low speed and stopping a lot...

She do get hot in traffic... but no boil over...

I do need more of a tutorial on moving the spark advance around and about while driving.

I have the neutral/throttle thing pretty good, I just need a smoother transition from low to high and getting up to speed faster.

I also think I'm getting the long hill thing down, and figuring when I need to switch to low.

If I'm taking her to work 3-4 days of the week I plan on monthly greasing and oiling.

I haven't asked the price yet, but the 24/25 pickup pieces and parts build will likely be splitting time between my son and myself.... AND be our Montana 500 car.

[WillyR]

uhggg, wasn't able to drive her to work the past two days....

I think I'll come down with some affliction so I can take off work early....

I found this in an archived thread here so I thought I'd re-post it....

[WillyR]

don't forget to switch to mag....

the horn seems to be very low volume on mag, or is it just when running?

It seems I had heard of this, or is there something to adjust?

one of the reasons I want a bevin bell....

[Steve Jelf]

A word of caution about Murray Fahnestock's chart of lever positions. It may be OK for driving on BAT. But look at the spark lever positions. In the real world that's too many for driving on MAG. Lots of folks don't realize that only three (or four) positions apply when driving on MAG. Not only the cars are not all the same. BAT and MAG are not exactly the same either.

[WillyR]

A word of caution about Murray Fahnestock's chart of lever positions. It may be OK for driving on BAT. But look at the spark lever positions. In the real world that's too many for driving on MAG. Lots of folks don't realize that only three (or four) positions apply when driving on MAG. Not only the cars are not all the same. BAT and MAG are not exactly the same either.

I think the main thing I will get out of it, is to retard the spark more on hills.

My son has a Saturday drum lesson in the mountains, and I would like to try driving the T there, even before I get the ruckstell....

[Steve Jelf]

You may adjust spark on a hill if it's steep enough and long enough. Listen. Let the car tell you. Some folks overdo the adjusting.

[TXGOAT2]

With modern gasoline, adjusting the spark on hills is usually not needed. Early day gasoline was very low octane, and detonation could occur when the engine was loaded, such as going up a steep hill in high gear or plowing down a muddy road in low gear. With today's 80+ octane gasoline, detonation is not an issue.
Always retard the spark when starting the car, and if you are driving very slowly in high gear. Otherwise, full advance is fine for speeds over 15 MPH or so under most conditions. When running on magneto, the spark lever will be halfway down or all the way down. For most driving, the car will run best on magneto, assuming the magneto is working properly. All of this assumes your car is in good overall condition and that linkages are adjusted properly. It would be helpful if you can find someone in your area who has Model T experience. Such a person could demonstrate how the car responds to the various controls under various conditions and give you an idea if your car has need of any adjustments.
The car should start easily and be easy to drive smoothly. If it does not, you may need to adjust your technique, or the car may need adjustment.

[TXGOAT2]

If your car is in good running condition, it should run 40 MPH or a little more pretty easily. In hilly terrain, it's best to maintain a good speed as you approach a climb, and open the throttle all the way and use full advance. When going down steep grades, keep speed moderate, and if you have to stop or make a sharp turn on a downhill stretch, keep speed well under control. Driving a T in hilly country is a lot like driving a big truck. You need to conserve momentum on uphill climbs, and keep speed under control on downhill stretches. Headwinds will reduce your available power.

[TXGOAT2]

Model Ts have a very fast steering gear ratio, so don't "whip the wheel". It is rarely necessary to turn the steering wheel more than 1/3 to 1/2 a turn when driving.

[WillyR]

Ok a couple things.

First off, I have had hard starting the last two times I ran her, including just a few minutes ago.

I’m not hearing the coils much if at all when I turn the key on, should I hear them every time?

This last time I thought I had run the battery down, and when I was about to give up, ai tried one last time and she fired right up.

Second, I have approximately 60-70 miles on her since I filled the 9 gallon tank but not topped off.

So let’s say I filled it to 8 gallons maybe 8.5…

I was sputtering just after a hill and again after an even shorter hill…

So I get home and check the gas and accordion to the dipstick I have 2 gallons left.

So best case scenario I used 6 gallons for 70 miles….so I got 11 miles to the gallon

Now taking into account me being new to driving the T, AND me being a touch afraid of killing the engine by throttling too low, and much of the mileage being in stop and go traffic…

I do believe this is way below what I should be getting for mpg.

I am going to attribute much of it to the above reasons.

Any tips or tricks? I’m thinking hard starting could be due to fouling from my driving ability.

I’m also heating up fairly rapidly and I attribute that to me idling too high.


The couple hills I contend with aren’t too terrible but they are semi longish.

[John kuehn]

ALWAYS remember that Model T’s don’t have real brakes and when going down hills slow the engine down and let your engine act as an engine brake. Remember when you’re going along at 35-40 mph the guy behind you will come up faster than you think. Personally I don’t like driving in traffic because the other cars can accelerate and brake faster than you can! I’m in the county and have lots of blacktop farm to market roads to cruise around on.

As you start learning to use the spark and gas controls a little better you’ll learn the little things about driving and upkeep on your T. And remember you’re driving 100 year old technology. Every T is a little different but essentially overall the same. Read and study the Ford service manual and get the parts books avaliable from the T parts suppliers. They have a wealth of information about Model T parts and learning what goes where. If you request one they will usually send them to you free. One more thing is whether it still has the original round tube radiator on it or has the radiator been replaced.
Good luck!

[WillyR]

You may adjust spark on a hill if it's steep enough and long enough. Listen. Let the car tell you. Some folks overdo the adjusting.

With modern gasoline, adjusting the spark on hills is usually not needed. Early day gasoline was very low octane, and detonation could occur when the engine was loaded, such as going up a steep hill in high gear or plowing down a muddy road in low gear. With today's 80+ octane gasoline, detonation is not an issue.
Always retard the spark when starting the car, and if you are driving very slowly in high gear. Otherwise, full advance is fine for speeds over 15 MPH or so under most conditions. When running on magneto, the spark lever will be halfway down or all the way down. For most driving, the car will run best on magneto, assuming the magneto is working properly. All of this assumes your car is in good overall condition and that linkages are adjusted properly. It would be helpful if you can find someone in your area who has Model T experience. Such a person could demonstrate how the car responds to the various controls under various conditions and give you an idea if your car has need of any adjustments.
The car should start easily and be easy to drive smoothly. If it does not, you may need to adjust your technique, or the car may need adjustment.

If your car is in good running condition, it should run 40 MPH or a little more pretty easily. In hilly terrain, it's best to maintain a good speed as you approach a climb, and open the throttle all the way and use full advance. When going down steep grades, keep speed moderate, and if you have to stop or make a sharp turn on a downhill stretch, keep speed well under control. Driving a T in hilly country is a lot like driving a big truck. You need to conserve momentum on uphill climbs, and keep speed under control on downhill stretches. Headwinds will reduce your available power.

Model Ts have a very fast steering gear ratio, so don't "whip the wheel". It is rarely necessary to turn the steering wheel more than 1/3 to 1/2 a turn when driving.

I was able to check retarding the spark on a hill on the run I just did. It did not seem to affect it as much as I hoped it would.

But I’ll continue to see what my car likes.

Maybe I’ll pee in the tank to lower the octane and get the full experience.

I downloaded a speedometer app and when the steering gets squirrelly I look over and I’m going over 40mph. Max speed so far is 45.5mph.

[NoelChico]

Willie, You've got a good looking Coupe. Hopefully I'll get mine looking as good. Your NH carburetor should be able to get over 15 mpg especially with your high compression head. I have 2 Z heads and a Prus, and find the spark position is not terribly critical, as long as it's near the mid quadrant, except at starting. I suspect as you get used to the car your mileage and comfort will improve. In traffic, I find other drivers will look right at me and not register, so be careful. They'll cut in front of you before a stop so give them plenty of room. Also, they may look at you and not see you in a turn or pull in front of you. Over 42 mph I find the steering is too intense, especially with our 4:1 steering ratio, but a number of folks are comfortable there. Have fun!
Noel Chicoine
1920 Roadster
1923 Touring
1926 Coupe
1916 Roadster (in progress)
1924 Coupe (in the wings)

[TXGOAT2]

If the carburetor is too rich, it will waste gas and soot up the spark plugs. Running on the road with the timing retarded too much will waste gas, reduce power, and promote overheating. Turning the knob on the dash to the right leans out the mixture, and turning it to the left makes it richer. If you can get out on the road and away from traffic, you can drive along at about 20 MPH and turn the knob slowly to the right until the engine starts to slow down, then turn it back to the left about 1/4 turn. That should have the mixture close to correct. Generally speaking, full spark advance is best at any road speed over about 15 MPH. 11 MPG is very poor. Under most conditions, the car ought to do around 14 to 18 MPG, depending on traffic and how well you handle it. Tire pressure matters. Get a good, accurate gauge and inflate the tires as recommended. Check them often.

* Most carburetor adjustment linkages have some slack, which must be allowed for. Never turn the control knob hard against the stop. That can damage the needle and seat. With the engine off, turn the knob to the right until it just stops, then turn it back to the left for 1 full turn. That should allow the engine to start and run. Once the engine is running and warmed up, it's usually best to turn the knob back to the right about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Always use fresh gasoline. Stale gas will cause problems.

[TXGOAT2]

My car is stable on the road up to 50 MPH, and probably more. It has 5:1 steering and a 17" steering wheel. It also has wire wheels and hydraulic shocks all around, which no doubt helps.

[TXGOAT2]

!! When you turn the key to Battery with the engine stopped, you may hear a coil buzz, or you may not. That's normal. When you turn the key to Magneto with the engine stopped, you will not hear any coil buzz.

[WillyR]

If the carburetor is too rich, it will waste gas and soot up the spark plugs. Running on the road with the timing retarded too much will waste gas, reduce power, and promote overheating. Turning the knob on the dash to the right leans out the mixture, and turning it to the left makes it richer. If you can get out on the road and away from traffic, you can drive along at about 20 MPH and turn the knob slowly to the right until the engine starts to slow down, then turn it back to the left about 1/4 turn. That should have the mixture close to correct. Generally speaking, full spark advance is best at any road speed over about 15 MPH. 11 MPG is very poor. Under most conditions, the car ought to do around 14 to 18 MPG, depending on traffic and how well you handle it. Tire pressure matters. Get a good, accurate gauge and inflate the tires as recommended. Check them often.

* Most carburetor adjustment linkages have some slack, which must be allowed for. Never turn the control knob hard against the stop. That can damage the needle and seat. With the engine off, turn the knob to the right until it just stops, then turn it back to the left for 1 full turn. That should allow the engine to start and run. Once the engine is running and warmed up, it's usually best to turn the knob back to the right about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Always use fresh gasoline. Stale gas will cause problems.

Ah ha! The plot sickens….

It turns out my mixture is separate from the choke….

I will fiddle with it tomorrow…. But I may have been set just about the middle of it’s adjustment…

I betcha I’m running rich and fouling them plugs….

[WillyR]

The club happened to have a breakfast meeting (22 mile round trip) this morning.

I checked the torque on the head before I left leaned out the carb a bit and filled up with gas (7.8 gallons)

I experimented with a little more retardation on hills and went easier on the throttle, and I was much smoother overall.

A club member watched me start her up and said to ease off the choke more.

Getting better every mile…

Probably have over 100 miles on her so far.

[ModelTMitch]

Welcome to the addictive hobby, or as Steve Jelf calls it, the affliction

Model T's always find a way to get under your skin in the best way. You'll love it, you'll hate it, you'll swear at it, you'll sing it praises!

If I can be of any help, feel free to contact me directly, or check out my website and YouTube channel

https://www.fordmodelt.net

https://www.youtube.com/@ModelTMitch

[WillyR]

so 30-40 mph headwinds and 22 hp aren't a lot of fun, was pretty windy this morning....

I think I'm driving more sensibly and should get better mileage, except this tank will be a bust as far as tracking... I'm not super happy with the app I am using, it changed from a digital display to a shitty gauge that is illegible... (speedometer simple) in iphone apps...

[NoelChico]

Willy, it doesn't matter how fast you are going. You're driving a Model T. You're already where you want to be!
Noel

[TXGOAT2]

I use a Garmin Drive 52 EX device. It provides a speedometer, odometer, trip odometer, clock, compass, navigation and map functions, elevation, and more on a bright, 3X5 screen. It runs on 12 volts and draws very little power. It comes with a suction cup mount to put it on the windshield or any smooth surface. I bought mine cheap at WalMart for $63.00. Last week, I bought a Drivesmart 66 EX at the local WalMart for $40.00. I didn't really need it, that that's dirt cheap for a $200.00 item! It's a more elaborate version of the EX 52. These things work day or night, are easy to use, and you can check your speed and miles driven at a glance any time. You can move it from car to car, too.

[TXGOAT2]

A Model T will easily move you along at 40 to 50 feet per second... more if you want, and it will do it all day long.

[TXGOAT2]

Headwinds are a nuisance in any car. If you have the option, drive slower going into the wind and faster coming back. Slowing down even 5 MPH will help. Wind resistance goes up very rapidly as your speed increases. With a Model T, you have road speed and air speed, like riding a bicycle, and you will notice headwinds. You can drive straight into a strong headwind, if necessary, but performance and gas mileage will be reduced. My car resists cross winds very well. A coupe or sedan might be more susceptible to strong crosswinds.

[TXGOAT2]

When I fill my gas tank, I reset the Garmin trip odometer to zero. That way, I can tell easily if I need gas.

[WillyR]

Willy, it doesn't matter how fast you are going. You're driving a Model T. You're already where you want to be!
Noel

I do wanna keep track of milage per week, not per decade, like some y'all

[WillyR]

Headwinds are a nuisance in any car. If you have the option, drive slower going into the wind and faster coming back. Slowing down even 5 MPH will help. Wind resistance goes up very rapidly as your speed increases. With a Model T, you have road speed and air speed, like riding a bicycle, and you will notice headwinds. You can drive straight into a strong headwind, if necessary, but performance and gas mileage will be reduced. My car resists cross winds very well. A coupe or sedan might be more susceptible to strong crosswinds.

I should have listened to the wind, and turned around and headed for home.....

[WillyR]

Ok I went back to the first speedo/odometer app…. I figured out how to set it to my liking.

Others wanted you to purchase subscriptions or didn’t have the odometer portion.

This one has ads but it’s a small banner at the bottom.

I’m guesstimating I’m at around or just under 200 miles total.

I do believe I’m getting much better gas mileage as I’m at 6 gallons on my 9 gallon tank.


I’ll fill up in another 30-40 miles and then try to track mpg again.

I checked oil and it’s nice and clean looking and tastes like flowers.

I’m incorporating the retard more on hills, and am even trying it a bit when switching from lo to hi band…. I’m real or imagined driving smoother and I’m definitely driving cooler and keeping the rpm’s down.

The shaft that holds my carb butterfly may be worn and wobbling and I’ll see if I can get the clubs help in fixing and diagnosing further.

I am trying NOT to keep looking at the stromberg OF in the classyfieds here…


Ohh crap, I thought the holley G carb and manifold were already spoken for… but they aren’t…

I don’t need to hot rod my coupe, I don’t need to hot rod my coupe, I don’t need to hot rod my coupe, I don’t need to hot rod my coupe, I don’t need to hot rod my coupe, I don’t need to hot rod my coupe, I don’t need to hot rod my coupe..

[Steve Jelf]

My experience with a stock Model T has been mileage of 13 to 15 in town and 20 mpg on trips.

[WillyR]

My experience with a stock Model T has been mileage of 13 to 15 in town and 20 mpg on trips.

The previous owner said his average was 17-18 overall.

My driving ability has improved substantially over the 10 days I have owned her, so I think I can attain those numbers.

[WillyR]

I started her up this morning and didn’t give her much time to warm up before reversing and she died.

Cannot get her started again.

[TXGOAT2]

It's probably a mixture problem. Too much choke, or not enough. Did you turn the gas off and forget to open it?

[TXGOAT2]

When driving, unless you are going VERY slowly in high gear on a hill, you don't want to retard the spark.

[Mark Nunn]

I use Ulysee Speedometer app on my phone. I can customize the screen as needed.

[WillyR]

I use Ulysee Speedometer app on my phone. I can customize the screen as needed.

Screenshot_20250416_083959_Ulysse Speedometer.jpg

that one looks good and has everything I want, and more, but it doesn't look like it's available on iphone

It's probably a mixture problem. Too much choke, or not enough. Did you turn the gas off and forget to open it?

That's a possibility, I got flustered and in a hurry and could have done that....

I did finally get her started like nothing was wrong....

there was probably some user error involved but I'd never admit to it...

there is a heat exchanger thing going to the exhaust manifold and it makes it hard to tell if there is fuel flow.... too much too little, hard to tell....

[Ed Fuller]

The shaft that holds my carb butterfly may be worn and wobbling and I’ll see if I can get the clubs help in fixing and diagnosing further.

The only time you will notice the effects of a worn throttle shaft is at idle. It can cause a lean idle mixture and erratic idle speed.

[WillyR]

The shaft that holds my carb butterfly may be worn and wobbling and I’ll see if I can get the clubs help in fixing and diagnosing further.

The only time you will notice the effects of a worn throttle shaft is at idle. It can cause a lean idle mixture and erratic idle speed.

I do have that...

[WillyR]

So the recommended oil change interval is 500 miles?

yikes I'll be looking at monthly oil changes!

I keep forgetting which way is off on the 90* shut off valve at my carb...... I was hoping it would sink in by now....

I was spontaneously able to attend a club activity, and washed the car prior to leaving, and it was dusty and windy and the car looked like it did prior to washing by the time we left.

[TXGOAT2]

If your engine is in good condition and you use an air filter, you can go 1000 miles or more between changes using modern motor oils. Adding an air filter in dusty areas is a good idea, and adding a transmission cover screen and magnet is a good idea anywhere.

[WillyR]

If your engine is in good condition and you use an air filter, you can go 1000 miles or more between changes using modern motor oils. Adding an air filter in dusty areas is a good idea, and adding a transmission cover screen and magnet is a good idea anywhere.

I do have the transmission screen and magnet set up.

I have the exhaust manifold heat exchanger thing, but I’m not sure it does much in the southwest, but it did snow today…

https://youtube.com/shorts/4NCYxDCQDg4? ... i0zOeKjTCw

https://youtube.com/shorts/4NCYxDCQDg4 ... i0zOeKjTCw

[TXGOAT2]

The hot air pipe is a good thing in cold weather or cool, damp weather. I'd put one on my car, but that would interfere with the air filter, which is a necessity on dirt roads to prevent excess ring and piston wear. The hot air pipe is not generally needed in dry climates, and once the engine warms up, it has little effect. In the 1920s, gasoline quality was an issue, with gasoline that behaved somewhat like kerosene. The hot air pipe offset that problem to a degree, and prevented carburetor icing. Today's gasoline vaporizes very easily, and carburetor icing is not normally a serious issue.

[WillyR]

I have looked at the air cleaner offerings from Snyders and Langs, and I think I can do better in the looks department.

A huge part of the appeal of this particular veekle was the originality.

I may be able to modify the heat exchanger into an air cleaner and maintain much of the original look.

I have a few things I want to do tomorrow and I’ll add that to the list.

Today the club met for a work day and I sorted out the carb tuning and adjusted my coil boxes. At least two had double spark issues.

The carb may have previously had the bypass hole plugged but seems to be much better, it’s running smoothly.

I can fully decrease the throttle without fear of the engine dying.

I’m putting a spare set of coils higher on my priority list.

The next thing I want to get an understanding of is the slapper timer.

[WillyR]

uhggg, last day driving was raining and snowing, so last night my son and I got the outside washed, still need to vacuum the inside. ( I have carpet)

I got a zipper case for the ford wrenches I have, and the PO gave me a jack that works.

I think I'll clean all the tools and jack up in the next few weeks, and paint them.

I have an oil leak that may be somewhere near the starter, so I'll snug that up and see if I can have less of a leak....

I need to get one of those drip pans for the garage floor, or maybe just use cardboard...

I'm going to check all my grease fittings and fill. I (my son) already filled the oil caps.

I'll be taking the carb heat exchanger and explore making that into an air cleaner, I'm thinking some squares of oiled filter foam that could be changed at regular intervals would work...maybe every couple gas fill ups... Maybe stand the exchanger off the exhaust manifold a little since I don't really need it in the southwest....

I may have a wheel spoke shim that is moving, or I just noticed it... an excuse to buy another tool.... and I want to find an oil can for filling the oil caps...

[Moxie26]

Just be sure that the mounting screws for the starter and the Bendix cover are snug to help solve your oil drip problem.

[speedytinc]

Common leak that looks like its from the starter mount is actually coming from the corner where the HH, block & crankcase meet.
Dry the area up with brake cleaner spray. Run & watch for the leak.

[big2bird]

I need to get one of those drip pans for the garage floor, or maybe just use cardboard...

My cardboard drip pan cost $2000. A 75" tv gives you two nice ones.

[WillyR]

Common leak that looks like its from the starter mount is actually coming from the corner where the HH, block & crankcase meet.
Dry the area up with brake cleaner spray. Run & watch for the leak.

Just be sure that the mounting screws for the starter and the Bendix cover are snug to help solve your oil drip problem.

There were a whole slew of nuts and bolts in that area that needed snugging up. The drain plug also needed a little love.

I refilled and expended the grease cups on the transmission/driveline/steering.

Vacuumed the interior..

I have three spokes all next to each other on one rear wheel that have a little play in them. All others seem tight.

[WillyR]

Congratulations on the acquisition WillyR. And May I be the first of many to wilkommen you to our common affliction. I greatly enjoyed reading your ‘short story’, especially your humor. But don’t forget your 12 year old son as you increase your Model T fun Sounds like you have a good running coupe; increasing your driving skills adequately but consider that Model Ts are maintenance significant. On your next parts order to one of our vendors, include buying a lubrication chart. Frame it and abide by it. I’ll now let others suggest needed publications and the dauntless geezer will undoubtedly chime in.

the logolites headlight bulbs were back in stock today, and I ordered a lube chart, and whatever other posters Lang's had in stock to hang on the garage walls...

I got another tumbler with multiple keys for the door, another trunk key, the reverse pedal extension, and other stuffs....

Genuine Ford Parts" Poster

Poster of "Location of Ford Model T Power Plant Troubles Made Easy"

$200+ later....

[big2bird]

My favorite is the reprint of the 1919 Western Auto catalogue. I have all the books, and feet of Vintage Fords, but I still get tickled at the " hype" around aftermarket parts that still claim the same today.

[WillyR]

My favorite is the reprint of the 1919 Western Auto catalogue. I have all the books, and feet of Vintage Fords, but I still get tickled at the " hype" around aftermarket parts that still claim the same today.

It turns out they were out of the “Ford parts” poster with no restock date, but I’m getting my lube chart which as the main priority.

[WillyR]

ALWAYS remember that Model T’s don’t have real brakes and when going down hills slow the engine down and let your engine act as an engine brake. Remember when you’re going along at 35-40 mph the guy behind you will come up faster than you think. Personally I don’t like driving in traffic because the other cars can accelerate and brake faster than you can! I’m in the county and have lots of blacktop farm to market roads to cruise around on.

As you start learning to use the spark and gas controls a little better you’ll learn the little things about driving and upkeep on your T. And remember you’re driving 100 year old technology. Every T is a little different but essentially overall the same. Read and study the Ford service manual and get the parts books avaliable from the T parts suppliers. They have a wealth of information about Model T parts and learning what goes where. If you request one they will usually send them to you free. One more thing is whether it still has the original round tube radiator on it or has the radiator been replaced.
Good luck!

I was a bit shocked how well the rocky mountain brakes worked , but when it was wet and rainy and snowing they acted like I had expected them to accordion to the youtube videos. It seems most of the videos over exaggerate the cars shortcomings.

I do have the original round core radiator and it was mentioned there is an improvement available.

I also forgot to mention I already have safety glass installed…

[Steve Jelf]

I agree that descriptions of Model T shortcomings are often overstated. Granted, the brakes and acceleration are not up to modern standards, but driving in Detroit, Chicago, and K.C., I've never felt especially in peril of collision. I stay off freeways, of course, and on Michigan Avenue or Harlem Avenue the flow of traffic has ranged from "normal" to stop and crawl. I grew up in that, and it's more annoying than scary. At the same time, an empty country road is better than a crowded city street.

[WillyR]

an empty country road is better than a crowded city street.

I do make youtube videos, and I should spend some time and make a few about the T...


I did just get a bevin bermuda bell off the ebays, so I'll maybe start there, or maybe my air cleaner idea.....

Another question: with the car off, the horn sounds nice and audible.

Driving on magneto, the horn is really low and anemic.... is there a way to re-wire it to sound better while driving?

[John Codman]

I have long been a bit of a Grinch about installing seatbelts in cars that were not designed for them. Even the major manufacturers have run into trouble with seat belts. Some years ago Ford ran into a huge seatbelt issue. I don't recall whether it was the Maverick or the early Falcons had a seat belt geometry problem, and a number of rear seat riders spent the rest of their lives in wheelchairs. Before you start drillin' you need to do some serious research as to seat belt installation and location. You may think you are making the car safer when the opposite may be true.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I have long been a bit of a Grinch about installing seatbelts in cars that were not designed for them. Even the major manufacturers have run into trouble with seat belts. Some years ago Ford ran into a huge seatbelt issue. I don't recall whether it was the Maverick or the early Falcons had a seat belt geometry problem, and a number of rear seat riders spent the rest of their lives in wheelchairs. Before you start drillin' you need to do some serious research as to seat belt installation and location. You may think you are making the car safer when the opposite may be true.

Totally agree! Seatbelts are NOT stand-alone safety items. They are designed for the specific car they are installed in and are just one component of an overall safety system.

[WillyR]

I have long been a bit of a Grinch about installing seatbelts in cars that were not designed for them. Even the major manufacturers have run into trouble with seat belts. Some years ago Ford ran into a huge seatbelt issue. I don't recall whether it was the Maverick or the early Falcons had a seat belt geometry problem, and a number of rear seat riders spent the rest of their lives in wheelchairs. Before you start drillin' you need to do some serious research as to seat belt installation and location. You may think you are making the car safer when the opposite may be true.

Totally agree! Seatbelts are NOT stand-alone safety items. They are designed for the specific car they are installed in and are just one component of an overall safety system.

Yeah I'm not seeing a safe way to go about installing them.. that's getting put way down on the priority list...

[DHort]

I looked up Ulysee speedometer on my phone. Does not appear to exist anymore or they changed the name.

You state it was not on an iphone and I cannot find it on a Droid.

It would be nice if people would state what phone they are using when they mention an app.

[Mark Nunn]

Dave, I've had Ulysse Spedometer app on Android phones for at least 15 years. You're right. I can't find it on the play store now.

[WillyR]

While I’m waiting for parts, I figured I would sort out the bud vase…

Hopefully enough hot glue that I won’t have to worry about them flying out the window.



And a short video.

https://youtube.com/shorts/0EalL0hS-Tc? ... fmUHxRGZiD

[Original Smith]

I don't feel like reading all of the posts on your car, so being a 1925 owner, I think your guess is correct, I believe it is a 1925. Two things: It has the clipped corners serial number tag, and it has 21" wheels.

[WillyR]

I don't feel like reading all of the posts on your car, so being a 1925 owner, I think your guess is correct, I believe it is a 1925. Two things: It has the clipped corners serial number tag, and it has 21" wheels.

Yeah I was never certain when making the next model year the year prior became the way it was done, but apparently it was over 100 years ago in the automotive industry….

[WillyR]

Ohh I’m so excited about today’s haul….

[WillyR]

I got the Bevin bell half price since it didn’t have a plunger, and it will be easy to fabricate one…

I need some longer screws to mount the bell to the wood of the floorboard.

Due to the rocky mountain brake linkage I needed to mount it right of center but easily within reach of myself and it makes it easy for a passenger to actuate.

The reverse pedal extension seems like it will be useful.

The new trunk key AND new ignition key also work.

I did go to the local locksmith and had two new door keys made, they fit in but do not turn. I will take the car there and see if they can get the new keys to work.

I have the new tumbler and two keys and will get a third made… if I can’t get the others to work.

The logolites are an improvement and the brights are brighter than the dim.

I have the Focused Beam LED Headlights..

The confusing part about the lights is.. it says they have some sort of adjustment to them but I’m not sure how I’m supposed to tell if they need to be adjusted…. They have some videos on the lights but nothing about adjusting them.

I imagine I need to get outside in the dark and aim them at a wall, but I don’t have time for that now.

[WillyR]

Ahh ha

So reading the full directions from the website helped..

It was much easier to check with the bezels off.

The beams are horizontal tv looking with the bright almost like a double image

Low


High



Video
https://youtube.com/shorts/JJF68c4rO-I? ... npQe49HfU1


Directions

https://www.logolites.com/wp-content/up ... dlight.pdf



The new reverse pedal extension is nice, I no longer have to concentrate on hitting the pedal with the side of my foot, with my tongue sticking out the same side as my foot is twisted...

[WillyR]

Ohh damn, the bell sounds awesome….

https://youtube.com/shorts/-dmyKARw3Rg? ... oF5f0A5_5e


I have the tyres at 38psi, and in the April thread ir was suggested the 28-32 psi range may be better…


I’m thinkin that may be the range I’ll be in.

38psi is noticeably harsh and squirrelly.

[TXGOAT2]

28 PSI, cold, is plenty. Get a good, dial-type gauge.

[WillyR]

I had the car at the locksmith yesterday, the blanks they have are close but just a tad too short in order to work for the door key.

They did say they key is stamped instead of cut AND that the number on it is very likely the stamping number, so if I find a key with the same number it would very likely work.

so if anyone has a stamped steel door key with CF736 I could use one or two...

I had purchased the new tumbler from Langs with two keys ($18.99) and I had a third key cut while I was at the locksmith, and I'll install that this weekend.

I'll have 3 complete sets of keys now...

In addition to installing the Bevin Bermuda bell, we cleaned the garage floor very well, and placed fresh cardboard on the floor.

I'm thinking I'll average around 60-80-100 miles per week...

I'll need to wrap my head around the timer this weekend, as I think I have all other systems down..

I may need the forward band adjusted....

[WillyR]

A new set of coils, an I-timer and a ruckstell, are all on the wish list now.

I had a rear wheel adventure over the last couple weeks and I documented it here…


viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48033

I have been getting better gas mileage, but I’m not happy with the speedometer app I’m using.

I have to push a separate button every time I open the app to record the mileage, and it doesn’t seem to reset when I attempt to clear it.

If I found a reliable app I would pay a couple bucks for it.

I want it to track mileage and have a legible speedometer just by opening the app.

[TXGOAT2]

Get a Garmin Drive 52 EX. It has everything you need and more, and you can take it from car to car if you wish. 3X5" screen, day and night, sticks to windshield or slick paint with suction cup, 12 volt. Runs for a very long time on a very small 12volt non-spill battery. Speedometer, two re-settable trip odometers, maps, average speed, clock, altimeter, all displayed on the screen.

[WillyR]

Get a Garmin Drive 52 EX. It has everything you need and more, and you can take it from car to car if you wish. 3X5" screen, day and night, sticks to windshield or slick paint with suction cup, 12 volt. Runs for a very long time on a very small 12volt non-spill battery. Speedometer, two re-settable trip odometers, maps, average speed, clock, altimeter, all displayed on the screen.

That's a tough one, I really would like to be able to use my phone and not have separate hardware...

You would think with as much garbage phones can do, they would be more user friendly.

I tried a new app this morning, and wasn't pleased with it.

If I open the app and it doesn't go right to the speedo, it doesn't even get tested.... ads and begging for money immediately are a no-go..

[WillyR]

SOOOOoooooo....

There are bicycle speedometers that DO NOT use a wheel sensor..

They solely use GPS.

I don't need the navigation capability of the Garmin (I had one years ago and didn't like the inability of it to track traffic, AND the planned obsolesce, and lack of map/business updates)

I will be getting an under $50 bicycle gps, and report back....

I do use and am happy with the navigation on my phone.... I go back and forth between Waze and Google maps.....

[WillyR]

OK so I'm about to pull the trigger on a pinstriping kit...

It would probably be cheaper to pay someone to do it, but I don't want to do it unless it's costs more money than needed....

I will need to match the current "carmine red" pinstripe on the cab...

The kit comes with basic colors and I am sweating matching the color...

But it looks simple enough...

basic red + white

https://youtu.be/rLExgOR69ww?si=7xJGE25NVtChtHE8

another shows burgundy + yellow

https://youtu.be/rLExgOR69ww?si=7xJGE25NVtChtHE8

there are a couple others that show mixing different colors I won't have, but between the red white and yellow that will be in the kit already I think I can match well enough...

Honestly I wouldn't have known what colors to start with to mix......

[WillyR]

As soon as my tank reads 2 gallons on the dipstick, I better fill up right the fork now..

I opened a new odometer app that sucks too…

[WillyR]

Messing with these speedometer apps, and the most promising one is $19.99 per year and it still wasn’t up to snuff.


Bike computer for $40 on amazon…

There was a $30 one from the same company that would have worked well also but I got the latest and greatest version. For $10 more I get 70 vs 50 hour recharge on the built in battery.

[WillyR]

The club has a neat little oiler can that's good for oil cups, so I got one for the home garage.

I'm not sure if this one works but I would imagine it's just a leather washer away from working, as long as all the parts are there...

this weekend has a couple car shows and I'm not sure I'll be attending.

Saturday is a tractor club but I may just be able to make a guest appearance.

Sunday is one I would have to pay to attend, and the place holding it doesn't even have it listed on their own website, so it must be important.....

so Sunday may be the maintenance day, I'll run through the fuel system, and possibly oil change, I have some new leaks to chase down, and I'm certain there is no solution to them...

I could buy a set of three pinstriping brushes AND a 4oz can of "carmine" red that may or may not match for under $40..... OR I could buy a complete kit of pinstriping stuff, with multiple colours, and lots of accessories for $180 plus tax... I'm almost temped to go the most expensive route.....

[WillyR]

I do not want a dipstick, but checking the oil is a huge PITA....

I have just enough drips to make it look like I have lost 14 quarts of oil, but I'm still good in the pan......

[WillyR]

While looking for the oiler can I saved a few that looked cool, then I got emails about discounts so I got a couple others…

I need to get a set of old monkey wrenches next.

[Steve Jelf]

You can make a simple tool that allows you to check the oil withput crawling under the vehicle.

A simple oil sight gauge makes it easy to see the oil level.

[WillyR]

IMG_1002 copy.JPG
You can make a simple tool that allows you to check the oil withput crawling under the vehicle.


IMG_3793.JPG
A simple oil sight gauge makes it easy to see the oil level.

I thought about making the "sight glass/plastic" but I think I'd still want to close the valves when driving..... and just open once in a while to check, I have enough drips already....

Since I'm new, I'm paranoid about putting enough pressure on the valve when closing due to it's "conical" shape.....

[Steve Jelf]

Yes, open the petcocks only when checking the level.

[WillyR]

Yes, open the petcocks only when checking the level.

It's the simple things that can git you in trubble...

[WillyR]

That was the simplest thing I dun so far…

The battery switch was dismounted and I scrounged a bolt to attach that.

I double checked my brake lights and turn signals and flashers.

I still have some led bulbs I can try on the turn signals, but the incandescent work well, and I have a couple spares of those.

[WillyR]

uhhgggg... the I-timer/ruckstell/extra coils, fund is going to take a hit...

audible "clunk" when engaging reverse on my 77 jeep.... sound like it's coming from the drivers front.... and I still need an $1100-1700 top for it before winter.... and a fan motor...

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

That was the simplest thing I dun so far…

The battery switch was dismounted and I scrounged a bolt to attach that.

I double checked my brake lights and turn signals and flashers.

I still have some led bulbs I can try on the turn signals, but the incandescent work well, and I have a couple spares of those.

Am I seeing metal flake in the oil tube? Hope not...

[WillyR]

That was the simplest thing I dun so far…

The battery switch was dismounted and I scrounged a bolt to attach that.

I double checked my brake lights and turn signals and flashers.

I still have some led bulbs I can try on the turn signals, but the incandescent work well, and I have a couple spares of those.

Am I seeing metal flake in the oil tube? Hope not...

I mix a quart of goldschlager in with every oil change.

The gold flakes act like micro ball bearings and extend the life of Babbitt bearings.

I think it’s just the outside surface of the tubing. Or whatever I used the tubing for prior, I had a couple feet of it laying around.

Could be anything from root beer to dot 3 brake fluid.

[babychadwick]

Regarding the pinstriping set. Those sets require skill to use. Might be far less frustrating to get a buegler. A good friend of mine turned me onto them, you've seen his work I'm sure...

https://www.beugler.com

Now that you are getting more confident driving it is more important than ever to remind you to drive like you have no brakes. Try to always leave yourself an out.

When going down long hills try turning off the motor to use it as a brake. If you want a new muffler retard the spark before switching back on.

[Moxie26]

Adding "Goldschlager" to the engine oil is a great idea... Plus gold is non-magnetic and won't foul the magneto output!

[WillyR]

Regarding the pinstriping set. Those sets require skill to use. Might be far less frustrating to get a buegler. A good friend of mine turned me onto them, you've seen his work I'm sure...

https://www.beugler.com

Now that you are getting more confident driving it is more important than ever to remind you to drive like you have no brakes. Try to always leave yourself an out.

When going down long hills try turning off the motor to use it as a brake. If you want a new muffler retard the spark before switching back on.

I haven’t tried turning off the engine yet for braking, if I’m on a clear enough road one of these days I’ll try it out.

I do have a Flo-thru muffler, I would like one of those weird looking canister style that I have seen on some other members cars…

I do believe I have seen that striping tool before.

I’m not opposed to learning the freehand striping. The one shot 8 color kit is just under $200. I think that would give me plenty of practice paint. There is another brand of 18 colors for a few dollars more. I’m sure either is good enough for me to start with.

Adding "Goldschlager" to the engine oil is a great idea... Plus gold is non-magnetic and won't foul the magneto output!

Sometimes my genius cannot be quantified.

[Moxie26]

Adding "Goldschlager" to the engine oil is a great idea... Plus gold is non-magnetic and won't foul the magneto output!

Sometimes my genius cannot be quantified. ,......... .I'll drink to that !!!! We all go through that phase now and then.

[WillyR]

New speed-o-meter is here…

It does more than I need and hopefully what I actually need.

I think I prefer it mounted on the turn signal housing rather than on the dash.