Attachment to block to pull engine?

[lewcombs@gmail.com]

I need to ask a real neophite question: Exactly how should I attach to it to lift the engine?

AM getting closer to where I can start removal of my engine and transmission to find what cut my pan from inside.
In the Ford Bible that just arrived they show lifing the engine with an ice-tong type of gripper gadget,
In one Youtube the guy has an eye bold screwed into the 3rd spark plug hole.
Another video had something bolted to where the exhast comes out on one side, did not show the other.
No one starts with the detail of how best to attach to the block to lift it all.

One guy implied it was simplest to lift the whole chasis off and set it aside.

And I haven't seen mention of how mucch it helps to remove fire wall.

Does anyone have a check list of the order of events and details for a novice to remove an engine with the hope of getting it all back in some day?

Thanks

[Daisy Mae]

You can buy eyelets to screw into the spark plug hole and lift with a cherry picker (engine hoist), easily found to rent.
Personally, I don't like putting that much stress on the head using just one eyelet especially with an off horizontal lift. Two is minimum in my book, but that's just me & my paranoid head not wanting to risk cracking the head, especially if it's a special or early head. Vertical lift is assumed safe, but once you start maneuvering into angular lifts, that exponentially increases the force exerted on the plug holes.
Another option is to remove your head, and use two of your head bolts front & aft & run up thru the engine hoist chains with a washer screwed back into the block.
Removing the firewall just makes it way easier to pull the engine out to clear the pedals, unless you have a balance frame on the hoist that you can use to adjust the tilt of the engine as you pull/lift, but, given the engine mounting arms you'd have to twist & yank at a pretty extreme angle, eg, stress on your head.

Buy yourself the black Model T Service Manual. It details step by step both tear down and installation.

But as for a generic quick checklist:
Remove the radiator hoses and radiator
Remove front fenders (don't have to, but just makes working on engine removal/reinstallation so much easier)
Detach the fuel line from the carb
Detach the exhaust pipe from the manifold
Remove all wiring attached to engine (battery, starter, plugs, timer etc)
Remove floorboard
Detach carb & timer control rods
Detach pitman drag link, then remove steering column
Remove firewall
Remove intake & exhaust manifolds (don't have to, but why not)
Detach torque tube
Remove engine frame mounting bolts
Remove engine

When tearing things apart, keep things in sub assemblies, groups, bagged/marked/tagged, down to every nut & bolt. Otherwise you end up with a pile of parts you won't remember what they go to within a week.

A 2 point lift with a leveling/tilt bar makes all types of engine removals 10 times easier.

[speedytinc]

Lift point: the 2 outer head bolts in front of the 2 furthest back.
I find it easiest to move the steering column back. Remove 4 F/W bolts, spark & throttle rods, pitman arm & frame mount steering bracket bolts. Pull back thru the F/W out of the way.
The last 22 (wood F/W), I didnt remove the steering column due to the fragile nature of the wood.
This way is harder in that you lift & pivot to clear the column.
You can remove the F/W & steering column, Real easy, but IMO not worth the extra work.

[Oldav8tor]

Lewis,
I purchased a pair of lift rings from one of the vendors. I attach the lifting chain from a cherry picker to the rings which allows me to tilt the engine easier. I asked an old time engine rebuilder about the safety of lift rings and he laughed and said you could lift a whole car with one. When pulling an engine, I either remove the firewall or at least free it so I can raise it high enough to clear the pedals. The radiator has to go and I pull the headlights so they don't get damaged. I also usually remove the steering shaft. It's a pain, I know, but with the exception of the 26-27 cars is about the only way. Get some guys to help you.

[DHort]

The bible (Ford Service Manual) tells you the exact sequence on removing an engine.

I have always used the one eyebolt method and so has our club.

There is nothing wrong with using 2 eyebolts like they show in the above picture if
you think that is a better way to go. I do not think anyone used the ice tong method anymore.

[Mike Silbert]

I run a chain across from a water outlet bolt to a manifold stud (or bolt) on the other side.
You have a choice of holes to get the balance you want.
And the benefit is that the bolts are stronger in shear (side force) than in stretch trying to rip 100 year old threads out.
How many people strip their head bolt threads????

Whatever you use pick good bolts and good threads to screw them into.

Ford used tongs to whip them into the chassis
See 5:52 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pf8d4NE8XPw

Watch out when removing the engine, everything on the car likes to reach out and grab it "helping" you.
Firewall, headlights, steering column, wishbone, wiring, hood shelves, and more to think about
Mike

[Dan Hatch]

Like these?

[Wayne Sheldon]

Not the "best" advice? But if you are careful, a good method.
If you have an about thirty to forty foot piece of 3/8 inch polypropylene rope. Loop under and over around the engine three times, and tie a single (proper) square knot for the ends such that the loops can be adjusted slightly to even out the load. In effect, one single long triple loop.
One loop MUST go round near the back of the engine under the transmission. Absolutely necessary to achieve a steady balance.
One loop should be under the pan near the rear of the block. This one does the major direct lifting. The third loop should be only a little bit forward of that middle loop.
All three loops should cross no more than a foot above engine head, six to eight inches would be better. All three loops must be hooked and lifted together by whatever hoist or lift you have to use.

Never forget that you are wrestling about three to five hundred pounds of iron (depending upon how much you do or don't remove before lifting)! Properly looped and tied, the loops might still be able to shift somewhat, so be careful. But properly looped and tied, they should not slip enough to drop the engine.
Good 3/8 inch polypropylene rope has a tensile strength over a half ton. It is sometimes safety rated for about two hundred pounds of lift. Three loops distributes the engine and transmission weight unevenly to six lifting sections of rope. A decent piece of that rope looped that way cradles the engine, and will not break. But do be careful to not tilt the engine too much and/or wrestle it around too much, as the loops could slip if you forced it hard enough.

Those era tong lifters are neat, I wish I had one. But they are fairly rare. A few people have made ones themselves. Eye hooks, and chains are preferred by many people, and a great way to go. But if you don't have those things? Good rope, properly and carefully used is the next best thing.

Be careful! We want you to hang around for a long time.

[lewcombs@gmail.com]

You guys, and your responses, are awesome. Thank you.

Lew

[Dan McEachern]

Hoist sling with a basket hitch positioned just aft of the #3 cylinder and around the bottom of the pan works pretty well. Does not scratch the paint and can be purchased just about anywhere.

[Allan]

I have a 3 point lift. The two chains at the rear have captive welded in 3/8" pan bolts They go in two holes from which the pan bolts are removed. The front chain attaches to one of the water outlet bolts when the outlet is removed.The three chains are linked to a D shackle which, once set, i never have to re arrange. That's a Henry Ford three point mounting, that puts no stress on any single point.

Allan from down under.

[RajoRacer]

These work really good !

[kelly mt]

I just use a nylon sling. I move it forward or back depending what angle I need.

[Loftfield]

Never trusted pulling the engine with spark plug inserts. I use two eye bolts sent through the first two engine to pan bolt holes ahead of the hogshead. A picee of airplane wire through the eye bolts serves to attach to the engine hoist. Shown to me by a serious Model T engine rebuilder.

[DanTreace]

Lift Eyes are good, have used them many times. For one person lift, put one eye in 3rd plug hole , another in 2nd plug hole.

The 3rd plug hole allows engine to lift straight up off the frame rails, pull forward to clear the pan mounting ears from firewall brackets.

Then switch chain to 2nd hole to give tilt balance to angle engine under firewall and free the pedals.

IMG_0374.jpeg (101.58 KiB) Viewed 285 times

[Lil Teezy]

Buy, rent, steal or borrow one of these gems…

…maybe I’m spoiled since I got one, but it sure makes it safer and easier, especially pulling an engine out from the chassis or installing one that has its transmission attatched. Good luck and have fun! -Chris, in Boulder

[Mike Silbert]

I have a load leveler and have used it before.
If you use them on a Model T when you tip the engine to clear the pedals it jams the back into the firewall.
They work great on other cars but be careful rigging them on a Model T to stay away from the back.
Stay biased forward where it looks all wrong. The firewall can be removed but the cowl is much more difficult to remove.
Henry did not design the engine compartment to use one for some reason.
When balanced, the screw should be way towards the back end and not centered like normal.
Personally I use it on other cars but not my Model T's.
Everyone has their own personal preference, you have to figure out what works for you.

All good tools can be used badly and create problems.
Since this is your first time, take your time and be careful.
Getting help is also good since there is a lot going on when the engine starts coming out

Mike

[RajoRacer]

Like Dan's, these do work great !

[Steve Jelf]

One old cheapskate's approach was to remove a couple of head bolts and bolt a short chain to those two holes.

Pulling the engine/transmission from my 1915,
I found it helpful to raise the front of the body and set it
on a pair of 2x4 blocks. No need to remove the firewall.

[ABoer]

Lewis C
I use The following Part for years now with great succes .
Toon