Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

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dobro1956
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Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:05 pm

Well I finally got the engine back together and installed after the last head gasket leak and major crankcase gasket failure. I have the oil leak stopped but the head gasket did not seal again. It started leaking immediately after start up. IT is in the same place as last time. It is leaking between the front two head bolts. I did a re-torque after a couple minutes run time and then let cool. The torque did not change any. So I pulled the head to see what is going on. Like last time I can not see anything that should cause a failure. I am almost positive that it is leaking between the two front head bolts. I will post a picture of the leaking area. In the pictures you can see oily water coming from around the head bolts. That is about 15 seconds run time of leak. It was actually "blowing" water out the head bolts. I did not have the spark plug tight enough is why it is also leaking at the spark plug. It put water into the oil in just a couple minutes. When I removed the head there was water on top of the piston. So the leak is a "big" leak

The only issue I can even come up with is the machining of the head may be bad. I had the head decked during the original rebuild. When I look at the machined head surface I can see what appears to be "hard spots" in the casting. Maybe the surface milling machine at the machine shop had some wear and the hard spots caused the cutters to deflect. ???? Using my machinest straight edges, I can not really detect anything. But my accuracy is probably only good to about .002 thou.

I have pulled the engine again, so I can get to everything easily. I plan on having the head re-surfaced again. But I need to locate someone who can machine the "hard spots" without deflecting. I may contact the Blanchard grinder I used in Little Rock to surface my KR Wilson pan jig. His Blanchard grinder is supposed to be accurate to a 1/2 a thou for the full 8 foot length of the table. But they may not do small heads. I also found a place that does "production" re-surfacing of heads with a "belt grinder" type of machine. I know nothing about belt type machines so any input is appreciated.

I am building a engine test stand. I do not want to put the engine back in the car till I have it running good. It is a %#$@% removing the engine. I need a test stand anyway, so now is as good a time as ever to build it.

I would like any comments as to possible scenarios on how a leak like mine could happen. My thoughts are
(1) It has to be in #1 cylinder
(2) It could be poor seal of head gasket between the two front head bolts on the cylinder side.
(3) It could be a crack in cylinder wall into water jacket (but I do not see how it could come out the head bolt holes)
(4) It could be a crack into the bolt holes from the cylinder (but it would need to be cracked at both holes)
(5) It could be a crack or casting flaw in the combustion chamber into the water jacket (again I do not see how it could leak at the bolt holes)
(6) If there was a crack anywhere in the combustion chamber/cylinder wall it should just leak into the water jacket not come out the bolt holes

I have dye checked and mag tested every inch of the front of the head and block. No indications at all. I can not get the mag down very far into the cylinder to check the cylinder walls. I would think any crack big enough to leak as bad as this is leaking should be visable to the eye. ???

The only good thing is the engine starts very easily and other than a dead miss on #1 it seems to run good ...

One other question, How much imperfections should a copper/asbestos type gasket take care of. Back when I was dumb and poor, I have put head gaskets on 60s 70s era Ford 6 cylinders with as much as .010 warp and the things held ....

Any input is appreciated.
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:15 pm

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Steve Robbins » Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:15 pm

My first thought was are the head bolts bottoming out before they should do to blockage in the holes?

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by perry kete » Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:17 pm

Could there be debris in the two front head bolts holes not allowing them to seat?
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by perry kete » Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:18 pm

OK Steve types faster
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:20 pm

Steve and Perry, I forgot to mention that all bolt holes were checked and measured during the original build. I also put the head back on the engine this time without the head gasket, just to re-verify the bolts . All the bolts would screw all the way down by hand with no head gasket.

I also checked the front two holes to make sure they are not drilled into the water jacket. They are OK.

I also forgot to mention that this is a Rajo 4 valve head.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Cordes_jeff » Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:41 pm

Pressure check that head. You may be pressurizing your coolant system.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Craig Leach » Wed Sep 02, 2020 12:31 am

Hi Don,
The first head I milled did the same thing. Turns out I held it incorrectly and it had a 0.004 ark front to rear. The machine shop found it & milled 0.005 off and it was fine after that. Did you have the block milled also? Have you given any thought to putting 0.005 or so shim washers under each head bolt lightly torque the head( no gasket ) and then go around the head with a feeler gauge to check the clearance. If the gasket comes off easy maybe try micing the gasket to see if it is compressed equaly? Looks like you use copper coat on the gasket, I was told the cheapest silver paint you can buy works very well, so far it seems to do the job for me on the last two engines Iv'e put together. I just built a run stand they are great, you can run the engine check everything out. Work on it with ease, retorque the head, make sure it ready before you install it. Good luck with that its a great looking engine.
Craig.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by AZTerry » Wed Sep 02, 2020 1:28 am

I will expand on Craig's suggestion for aluminum spray paint.
First I know Craig very well, he is an active member of my club in the Phoenix, AZ metro area.
I believe I am the one that suggested it to Craig.

In 1974 I assembled my first Model A engine with a copper head gasket.
I assembled it with the gasket dry, and it leaked.
A mechanic that I worked with who grew up with 50's hot rods said use grease on the gasket, and it leaked again.
I the went to the auto parts store and they said to use Copper Coat, it still leaked.
The mechanic that told me to use grease, now told me to use aluminum spray paint. IT SOLVED THE PROBLEM.
I have been using aluminum spray paint on cooper head gaskets ever since.

Now Craig's comment about cheap spray paint, the background.
Craig most likely got the comment from me third hand.
I got the comment from another member of my club second hand.
The member of my club that told me the comment second hand heard it first hand
out of Clint Brawner's mouth. Clint was a very successful racing Chief Mechanic, including Indy.
The way I remember the comment being relayed to me and I believe I relayed then to Craig is:

"Aluminum spay paint is the best gasket sealer you can use, and the cheaper the better."

Just google Cling Brawner if you want additional information on him.

My last comment, aluminum spray paint has never failed me and I have done allot of head gaskets over the years.

Respectfully,
Terry


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Allan » Wed Sep 02, 2020 4:00 am

I second Terry's silver paint. I use brush on paint. A nice thick coat and let it set till it's tacky.
Allan from down under.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Aussie16 » Wed Sep 02, 2020 5:11 am

Hi Don, Are you able to post a picture of the block surface and also the gasket? That might help diagnose the problem. With the Rajo 4 valve there is a big space around where the old inlet valves used to sit. the gasket can compress into that hole a bit and deform the gasket which may cause a leak? I actually used some old valve heads with the center drilled out to take up the space where the valve used to sit to provide extra support to the gasket. I feel you pain removing that head as it is a pest to have to keep removing the rocker posts to take out those middle head bolts.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Kerry » Wed Sep 02, 2020 7:02 am

Might be of some help? photo's of a head and gaskets, heat ring is as close to the bolts as yours but the seal ring in the gasket water hole has more head surface to seal on than yours.
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Henry K. Lee » Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:18 am

Frustrating for sure! Hate it for you Donnie.

Maybe spray coat with copper head gasket sealer. I normally do it on all builds after everything is checked.

Hope this helps,

Hank

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Charlie B in N.J. » Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:25 am

Sorry I can't offer much beyond I don't think it's the gasket. As long as you're not re-using the same one over & over that is. I also believe that on a properly installed / torqued head a 15 second run showing liquid out the bolt holes also indicates ( to me ) that it's not the gasket. How does the gasket actually look? I don't recall if you said it failed in the area in question.
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by kmatt2 » Wed Sep 02, 2020 11:06 am

Donnie, After you get the engine stand built but before you take the engine apart try this. I assume you have made plugs for the old inlet valves that the push rods go threw. You could mount a stock T head and gasket and try cranking the engine over with the starter, you could even try hand cranking if you have to. You won't have any compression but you may be able to get the block to leak coolant if the problem is with the block. If that doesn't work to find the problem I would for sure have the head pressure tested and surfaced again. I don't think the problem is the head gasket. You didn't say if the head is cast iron or aluminum but it looks like iron in the pictures. Good luck, your speedster is supper nice.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Mark Gregush » Wed Sep 02, 2020 11:39 am

The heavy leak seems be coming from the area circled in blue;
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Could this area be the issue? It looks lower then the rest of the surface. What about filling with JB Weld to build it up?
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas! :shock:

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Wed Sep 02, 2020 11:46 am

Good morning, Thanks for the input. Ill try to post a few more pics this evening.

Ill try to make a seal plate with gasket to do a pressure test of the #1 combustion chamber in a few days, as suggested. A bad casting is something I thought about. But dye check and mag test shows no indications at all.

I have installed valve heads at the intake ports. When the gasket leaked the first time I thought They may have been too high, so I reset them making sure they were about .001 to .002 low. 4 valves are know to blow gaskets at the intake ports So some support is needed. I do not think my valve head supports are part of my issue.

I have always used silver paint in the past as my gasket sealer. My grandpa is the one who taught me to use it. I used copper coat the last two times because it was what most folks use. Ill probably use silver paint next time. It has never failed me before, even on used head gaskets. So Ill be going back to my old ways again.

When I started this project I had four head gaskets. I had two new old stock "Fitzgerald" brand gaskets. They are a composite of copper and a asbestos type of inner material. They look new with no damage or wear . They may be from the 1970s era but unsure. I also bought two dead soft solid copper head gaskets . The first gasket I used was one of the Fitgerald gaskets. It was installed with copper coat. When it leaked, it showed no sign of failure at the location between the bolt holes but it did not appear to be stuck in place with the copper coat. I destroyed the gasket removing it. It was stuck very well everywhere else. The second time around I used one of the solid gaskets. When I removed it, It was stuck very well everywhere except between the two bolt holes. ???? It seems strange that both did not stick down good at the same location. I plan on using my last Fitgerald gasket next time. The new gaskets being sold by the vendors are 175.00 per gasket I hope it works out this time.

From my research, it seems that the belt sander head surfacing machines may be a do-able choice. So I may give that route a chance. ?? If the "hard spots" are part of the problem the belt sander should give a good flat surface. I had the block machined at the same time I had the head milled. So I'm hoping the better grade of cast iron machined OK. To re-deck the block would mean a total tear down.

Thanks again, Ill post some more pics later.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Tmodelt » Wed Sep 02, 2020 6:14 pm

Are you seeing cutter marks after milling in these "hard" spots? Maybe the "hard" spots are low. I would have the head machined using a surface grinder to alleviate the "hard" spots.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Wed Sep 02, 2020 8:51 pm

Here are a few more pics. They show some of the obvious hard spots. They may not even be a problem. But its all I can really see or find using straight edges. The only thing I can not really test is some pits or old scratches in the cylinder wall. My mag will not reach into the cylinder far enough with both prongs. They are below the water jacket in the solid part of the casting that would should leak to the outside if they were flaws. I removed the piston so I could get a good look at all the cylinder wall just in case there was a crack. They really look like old rust marks or scratches to me.

I show some pics of the head and block with the solid copper gasket I just removed in place. The hole for the water jacket is machined too big and only 1/32 inch of gasket is left to seal. I tested the "Fitzgerald" gasket I plan on using this time. It fits a lot better at the water jacket holes. But there is very little gasket at the area between the bolt holes and the cylinder wall. The fire ring is all there is to seal that area.

Im taking the head to a shop tomorrow to re-deck the surface. They use a belt sander type of surface grinder. It is old school, and has been used in the industry for years for normal rebuilds of most OEM products. The only negatives I have found on line are from pro hi performance engine rebuilders. It is probably not a good choice for hi compression engines, but should work OK for making a flat surface on a T head. The shop also has the tools to test for warp, twist, or low spots before we surface it.

Thanks again for the input
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Wed Sep 02, 2020 8:52 pm

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Walter Higgins » Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:40 pm

Forgive me if I missed it because there is a lot of material here. Is the current surfacing job done on one of those machines with a grinding head that protrudes slightly above a flat table and, by hand, and operator works the head back and forth across the table? Those are very prone to human error. I have also not heard good things about belt sanders The very fussy engine shop that I use said they tried one for awhile and no matter what on the far ends where the belt enters and exits the work the belt relaxes and takes too much off the ends. It was a brand new machine and they had reps come out and finally got fed up with it and sent it back.

I wound up buying from them their Van Norman Rotary Broach and that holds the head stationary while the cutter passes underneath and it makes things dead flat. The same is true of the combination surfacing / boring machines that many shops use now where you mount the head to a table and the cutter passes over it. I'd recommend finding someone with better equipment that will remove the human element from the equation.

The Blanchard is a neat idea but unless they have special tooling I don't know how they'd hold it. The Blanchard has a big magnetic chuck where you slap your plate, part, or fixture down on top and off you go. Unless they have made tooling to hold a head upside-down and contend with the irregularities of an unfinshed casting, I don't know how they would deal with that. The Blanchard was the perfect application for the plate for your pan straightening jig but this is different.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Kevin Pharis » Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:42 pm

I’ve seen hard seats installed where that had broken thru into the water jacket. On an overhead when sitting, it trickles onto the back side of the valve, only leaking into the cylinder when the valve opens. And when running, on intake stroke, the extra vacuum sucks it right in. We looked all over! Until we let it sit for a bit while we scratched our heads... and water started running out the header! 🤔

Pressure check everything separately... it can’t hide forever

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:58 pm

Walter I am not sure what type of machine they used on the first resurface. I do know the head was held flat and a rotating cutter passed over the head. It was an old machine shop with older tools so there could be wear in the machines. I have never had trouble with a head gasket before this head. If the head and block was relative flat and not too many scratches or rust pits they always sealed. I have used, used head gaskets before, Just gave it a good lookover, painted it with silver paint and stuck it on. Never had a leak ... This time I tried to do everything correctly and its biting me in the @$$. (yes those are $$ signs in the @$$). :) :)

Kevin, My head is cast iron so the seats are machined in the cast iron, no hard seats. I did have a couple cracks in the block at the two center exhaust valves. I had the cracks stitched and then hard seats installed. They can not leak water as the cracks were headed toward the exhaust ports.

I have never pressure tested a engine before, But I guess I could re-use the old solid copper gasket and bolt the head back on. It is easy to remove the other pistons at this time. So with the head back on and plates made to seal the inlet and outlet of the block and head I could fill the block up with water and use a air chuck and air gauge to monitor the pressure, to slowly pressurize the system. With the pistons out I could at least see where the water is coming into the engine by looking up into the lower inspection door. How much pressure should I use . ???

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Walter Higgins » Wed Sep 02, 2020 10:17 pm

Do you have a surface gauge to hold a dial indicator? Even if you don't have a granite surface plate, that freshly Blanchard ground plate for your pan jig should be nice and flat. If you could flip the head over and set it up nice and level you might be able to get a better picture of what's going on with an indicator rather than with a straight edge and feeler gagues.

Also, I forgot that this was not a stock head when I made my comment about putting it on a Blanchard and perhaps you do have a parallel side on top that makes it easy to set up for that. Sorry for the confusing comment.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Allan » Thu Sep 03, 2020 2:02 am

Donnie, second try at posting this. I had a similar problem with a standard iron T head. It was down to a blunt set of cutter tips on the mill used to surface it. Where it was making short cuts either side of the combustion chamber, the cuts were passable. As it crossed the head between the combustion chambers and had to make a full cut across the head it cut less deep, leaving a ridge between the chambers.
In your case, the very short cut either side of the water outlets at the front and back of the head would be deepest, the cut on the short sdie of the combustion chamber less deep, and the cut between the chambers even less deep. The different colour you see may not be harder inclusions in the casting, but a result of the tool cutting difference.

The next step may be having a custom made gasket to match your head to get optimal width sealing surfaces.

Hope this helps,
Allan from down under.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by John Warren » Thu Sep 03, 2020 8:31 pm

Two problems? My 26 has a cracked block that is leaking into the valve chamber/ oil system. You mentioned water on you piston, so sounds unlikely, almost sounds like a leak into the intake port. Water could be hydrauliced through the rings into the oil along with the external leak. Bolt the head back on and pressureize the block, check the port? Good luck and keep us posted. Thanks
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Thu Sep 03, 2020 10:11 pm

John, The Improved Models 26-27 blocks are notorious for cracks in the top of the oil galley between cylinders #2 and #3. Most are cracked at that point. I have used a die grinder to cut a small groove at the crack and use JB Weld to keep the water from seeping into the oil galley.

I took the head to the shop today to have it surfaced. With Walters concerns letting me know the questions to ask (thanks Walter) and after talking to the owner of the shop who has been there over 35 years I decided to give the belt sander a try. After checking it with his straight edges he estimated we would remove about .005 thou. He placed it on the belt and ran it for 2 to 3 seconds. Then we flipped it over to see what was "shiney" The spot between the front two bolts was already showing to be flat. Also the entire outer edge showed to be flat. But the center areas of the head still showed no "shiney" It was like the head was milled into a "bowl". So he put it back on the machine and ran it for maybe 10 seconds. When he flipped it back over the entire head was fresh "shiney" except a small area between cylinders #1 and #2. He flipped it back over and ran it about 5 seconds. This time it was "shiney" everywhere. I really like the finish. It has just a little "tooth" to the surface. Its not a mirror like surface but just rough enough to barely feel. I forgot to ask what grit the belt was but it looks like 320 or maybe 400 grit to me as to the finish. We had checked the deck height before he sanded it. After sanding he checked again and it showed .004 thou removed. He judged the amount he would remove by "eye" when he first used his straight edges. He said he could see the "bowl" I mentioned before. His "eye" said it was about .002 to .003 thou of a "bowl" so .005 was his target removal. I was really impressed with his abilities. 35 years at the business showed. He said he has done thousands of heads thru the years, with very few problems. I do not think the belt sander is a good option for Hi Performance/Hi Compression engines but for T's, I'm happy with the results (so far). It was 25.00 to surface the head. I mentioned that I had about 20 to 30 original ford heads that I may want done. If I take him 10 or more he will do them for 15.00 each. I think Im getting ready to sand blast all my good looking heads, mag test them (I have my own Magnaflux test equipment) , and have him surface 10 of them. Then list them on e-bay a couple at a time. If it is clean, and you say it was tested, things sell very good on e-bay, but if its dirty or unknown, not so well. So today was a good day in Arkansas Model T Land :)

Im not sure if the "bowl" had anything to do with my problem or not. But now, I do feel more comfortable that the head is flat. I guess my next step is to try and pressure test the block and head using the old solid copper gasket. Any thoughts on how much pressure. ??

Thanks for all the input.... I can usually "work thru" all the problems I have, but its sure nice to have someone to "cry to" when things keep going to pot...

It was hard to get pictures of the finish to show up,
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Thu Sep 03, 2020 10:13 pm

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Henry K. Lee
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Henry K. Lee » Thu Sep 03, 2020 10:23 pm

I think you will be ripping up the road soon now Donnie!

Glad to hear.

Hank

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dobro1956
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Thu Sep 03, 2020 10:39 pm

Thanks Henry ... all encouragement is very appreciated ...

I have a related but unrelated question about this head. I know a lot of you guys mess with the speed stuff . My question is about the step or ledge where the cylinder counter bore is. Should I take a die grinder and knock the sharp corner off the ledge. It will be easy to do at this time. I am wondering if it may cause carbon build up and pre ignition problems later ????

Its the little ledge shown in this photo. All cylinders have the same ledge.
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Walter Higgins » Thu Sep 03, 2020 11:15 pm

Good deal. I'm glad to hear that he found an irregularity, both measured and the same seen when resurfacing. Given what he found that makes me think the last machine was one of those where you run the head across the table by hand. It is very easy to create exactly the situation he described. Even if it doesn't fix your current ailment, you can have peace of mind knowing a potential gremlin has been rectified.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Allan » Fri Sep 04, 2020 10:03 pm

My local machine shop had one of those grinding wheel surfacers. They are not the best solution. They graduated to a belt type surfacer. That meant a serious upgrade to their electical supply to stop the neighbours having a brown out whenever they started up the 30 hp motor on the machine. It is mainly restricted now to facing manifolds, especially effective on the bolt together combinations of alloy and cast iron.
All heads/blocks/alloy pans etc. are surfaced on a mill. They made their own cutter head which utilises different cutter buttons for different finishes on different materials. It is super accurate and absolutely controllable.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Dan McEachern » Fri Sep 04, 2020 11:57 pm

Push thru grinders like the Van Norman and Petersen are great IF you know how to properly set one up, level the wheel, and use it. If not, you can certainly create a mess of things. I'm not fond of the belt sanders for the same reasons, but in the hands of a good operator and a machine in good shape you can get a good surface out of them. Just sayin.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Sat Sep 05, 2020 9:43 pm

After removing the other three pistons, I put the head back on yesterday, using the old solid copper gasket. I just cleaned it up good with laquer thinner and recoated it with the last of my copper coat. I installed the fresh milled (sanded) head and torqued to 50lbs. I made up a plate for the water outlet with fittings and a gauge to do a pressure test. I was able to slide a gasket between my engine stand mount at the lower water inlet to seal it off there. After filling the head and block with water, I used the air regulator on my air compressor to slowly raise the pressure thru a 100 foot hose to allow better (slower) control of the air. I started at 10 psi and raised it 10psi at a time till I got to 60psi. I reasoned that my combustion chamber/cylinder pressure will be around 50 to 55 psi, so 60psi test should be sufficient. I let it sit with pressure for 2 hours. No sign of any leak at all. :) :). As a Boilermaker we always let our hydro/pressure tests sit for a hour. It sometimes takes up to an hour for a small leak to show up. So just for the #### of it I let it sit 2 hours. I still plan on assembling the engine on the test stand and running it before I put it back in the car. But it appears the hard spots and poor machining may have been my problem. I really hope so.

Here's a few pics showing a very unusual view of the valve in a Rajo 4 valve head.

Does anyone know a way to put those pistons back in without removing the head. :) :)
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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Kerry » Sat Sep 05, 2020 10:10 pm

Piston fitting from the bottom, not unless you remove the crank and also chamfer the bottom of the bore as well.
Another thing I would be checking seeing it's out, would be the alignment of No 1 rod, they bend easy, it could have altered some from hydraulic pressuring while running with water in it. Something that diesels are well known for doing when taking in water.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Sat Sep 05, 2020 10:22 pm

Kerry, I have never heard of a water leak bending a rod, But there are lots of things I have not heard of. I will check it out while it is out. Thanks for the input.


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Allan » Sun Sep 06, 2020 12:19 am

Donnie, it happens when water accumulates in the cylinder and the rising piston tries to compress it. I agree with Frank. If the crankshaft is removed, there should be room. A small chamfer on the bottom of the bores will make it easier to start the rings back up the cylinder. Having the engine on the stand as you do makes it possible.
Allan from down under.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by dobro1956 » Sun Sep 06, 2020 10:19 am

I was just joking about putting the pistons in from the bottom. I thought it was impossible to put the piston in from the bottom because of the main bearing boss being in the way. ??

Ill just remove the head again since I do not want to remove the hogs head and crankcase again.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Pep C Strebeck » Sun Sep 06, 2020 4:46 pm

dobro1956 wrote:
Sat Sep 05, 2020 10:22 pm
I have never heard of a water leak bending a rod
Hydraulic Lock or Hydrolock. My neighbor had it happen to an old Farmall C, bent the rod like it was a piece of licorice.
"Remember son, there are two ways to do this: The right way, and your way” Thanks Dad, I love you too.

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by kmatt2 » Sun Sep 06, 2020 6:45 pm

If you have ever been to a sprint car race and watched the crew push the car back a few feet while in gear, that is the reason. If the injectors have bled down into the cylinder bad things happen to the motor on push off. The crews make sure the cylinders are clear of fuel

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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by Henry K. Lee » Sun Sep 06, 2020 7:00 pm

Glad to hear all is going well for you Donnie!

Hydro locking engines.., Be careful of all modern cars with a plastic glued on intake manifold, they really suck when they leak at their intake to water passages. Haul it to the scrap yard!


Hank


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Re: Speedster project update, blown head gasket (again)

Post by frontyboy » Tue Sep 08, 2020 11:12 pm

When you end up with hard spots in cast iron there is a easy solution, but first a regular head broach grinder by design will bounce over hard spots giving you an uneven surface almost undetectable.

I suggest you find someone with a "Blanchard Grinder" This is a commercial precision grinding machine of extremely close tolerances. The mounting table is an electromagnet which hold the head in place while the grinding head slowly traverses across the machine surface. You will have to make adapters to hold the head level and true and make the adapters out of steel not aluminum. I have used Blanchard Grinding for flywheel surfaces parallel plates and any other applications with a great deal of success.

frontyboy

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