Engine Installation Tips

[RustyFords]

I'll likely install my spare '25 engine when I get back from Chickasha and am starting to realize that installing it with the rearend/torque tube in place might not be the easiest thing to do. And by that, I mean making the u-joint slide into place while manhandling the engine into its proper location.

After all the hassle I went through getting my newly rebuilt rearend installed, I really don't want to remove it.

Do yall have any tips for installing an engine with the rearend alreadly installed? FWIW...I have the little u-joint installation tool.

[HPetrino]

I'd put the rear axle on jack stands so you can turn the drive shaft with the tool to align it without much resistance.

[rickd]

In addition to the rear axle on jack stands and a wrench to turn the u-joint I use a wooden crossmember with threaded rod and nuts bent into a "J" shape to hold the driveshaft tube at the right place as I lower in the engine/trans. The crossmember is placed across the frame; I would think you would have room to place it with the floorboards all removed. Takes a little patience, I've done it by myself, another set of eyes helps.

[Bill Robinson]

Here's how we do it. After Jacking up one rear wheel:

• 1. Install the engine and slide it back to where the 4th main and the ujoint almost touch. At this point the front will lack about 2 inches from falling into the mount at the crank handle.
  2. Put a jack stand under the drive shaft and let it hold the ujoint at the exact alignment point.
  3. Turn the tail shaft so that two of the four corners of the female square hole are at top and bottom.
  4. Turn the ujoint to align with the corners of the tail shaft. Again, the two of the 4 corners will be at top & bottom.
  5. Support the ujount's square shaft with a wrench (or homemade joint holder) while a helper gently pushes back on the motor. If the shaft/hole are aligned- success!
  6. I personally have legs long enough that I can put my foot on the tire that is off the ground and I can gently rotate the tire if the alignment is not perfect.
  7. If no helper, pull the motor back with a come-along, provided you have an extra arm to crank the come-along.

[George N Lake Ozark]

Oh ?? And don't forget this https://www.modeltford.com/item/2580.aspx

[RustyFords]

Thanks!

I knew yall would have some great tips and there'd be no need for me to re-invent the wheel.

[Steve Jelf]

I've never had any help doing it, so it doesn't have to be a two-person job. I agree with having a rear wheel off the floor so you can turn the shaft. I've always supported the drive shaft tube with a rope, but I like the 2 x 4 idea better. I'll try that next time. I use baling wire to hold the U-joint shaft level, and line up the corners as Bill says. There's a special wrench made for this, but so far I've gotten along without it. I may make one next time.

[Jim Eubanks]

I have jack stands under all four corners, grease the frame on both sides, slide the engine back to where it touches the ujoint, get under there and separate the two and rotate the ujoint to match the trans rear and slide the engine against the ujoint while holding up the TTube. When the two are aligned right and a little rear pressure on the engine, a slight bob of the TTube will get them to pop togather.

[HaroldRJr]

I've done it without help in a similar way of that described by Steve Jelf, however, I used a ratchet strap to support the drive shaft tube. The ratchet gives you an easy way to adjust height, and enough flexibility in case you need to sort of "wiggle" things into place.