Rust removal Evapo-Rust

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GrandpaFord
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Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by GrandpaFord » Sun Oct 11, 2020 5:42 pm

This piston came out of an engine that was sitting in a salt shed for salting meat. The whole engine is frozen solid. Before soaking for 4 days the wrist pin would not turn and the rings were frozen in their grooves. After treatment the wrist pin can move and the rings are free. The treatment leaves a fine black powder deposit on everything that can be removed with soap and water and some scrubbing. The black deposit is on the babbitt too so it is hard to tell if the babbitt was eroded but it looks like it has not been greatly effected. It was in very bad shape before the treatment. I tried to take the cap off by beating on the bolts but it is not moving. I will have to drill out the bolts. I have no intention of using these parts, it was an experiment to see if the Evapo-rust could treat these parts.
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by OilyBill » Mon Oct 12, 2020 1:45 am

In my opinion, Evapo-rust is one of the greatest inventions ever for restoration.
You can put the most delicate metal parts in it, and after soaking for a day, take them out, wash the black power deposits off with a plastic or wire brush, and you cannot tell the part was ever rusty. This and "Kroil" are my two primary chemicals when I do restoration work. It eliminates sand-blasting on delicate parts such as speedometer parts and other instrument parts. I also like the fact that it is non-toxic, to the point where you can drink it before you use it, and drink if after you use it, as the only thing it has after that it didn't have before is iron oxide. You can pour it right down the drain when it stops working, with no harm to the environment, or sewage or septic systems.
I don't know if they ever got any kind of restoration award, but they SHOULD have.


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by BLB27 » Mon Oct 12, 2020 1:23 pm

Does Evapo-Rust have the same ingredients as Krud Kutter-Must for Rust; that is phosphoric acid? If not, do both remove rust about the same? Any pro or cons for either?


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by OilyBill » Mon Oct 12, 2020 2:38 pm

No, there is no acid or base to Evapo-Rust. It does not attack anything except rust, and it removes that chemically, not by eating it away like an acid would.
It uses a chemical process called "Chelation" to remove rust.
It does not matter how long you leave the part in the Evaporust. Once the rust removal is complete, it has no further effect on the part or parts.
It is stated to be completely safe for other materials such as wood and plastics, as the only thing it attacks is rust.
When I first tried it, I was skeptical. But after the first use, I was absolutely sold.
You can order it through Walmart, or it is available at Harbor Freight, but HF sells it at a 30% premium over Walmart.
I tried it several years ago, after an article on in in "Skinned Knuckles" magazine. They were as skeptical as I was, and dismissed most of it's claims before they used it. Then they tried it, and that is how the article resulted. They were amazed, and I was too when I tried it. I have used it ever since.
If you have rusty or frozen assemblies, wash any oil or grease off with acetone or MEK, so the rust is just bare rust,(Any oil or grease will prevent the Evaporust from acting, as it has to touch the rust to eat it up.) and then soak it in a container. Wait one day, and when you pull it out and rinse it off, you will be amazed. There will be absolutely NO RUST ANYWHERE on the part. Not in the nooks and crannies, NO WHERE.
I will give you an example. I have a 1910 Brush. The single cylinder engine has an aluminum crankcase, and mounted on the front of it is a cast iron face that carries the front crankshaft bearing. It also has the drive for the valves and the ignition system mounted on this plate. It is about 12" in diameter, with the crankshaft sticking out the front in the middle of this plate. Mine was frozen in all modes. The crank would not turn, the valve mechanism was locked, and the ignition timer was locked as well. I placed the whole lump into a bucket that would fit the nose plate, and filled the bucket with Evaporust so that it just covered the disk under the surface of the Evaporust. The next day, I took it out, washed it in the sink with warm water, and scrubbed the black dust off of it under the tap. You can do this in the kitchen, as there is absolutely no chemical effect on anything, and it is not poisonous in any way. After washing it in warm water, I let it dry in the sun, and after it was dry, I sprayed it down with Kroil. The next day I took everything apart. No stripped bolts, not broken parts, no damaged threads. It disassembled like it had never been rusty.
I have NO FINANCIAL INTEREST in Evaporust. I have no relation to the company, other than as a very satisfied user. I am not a salesman. I have been using it since shortly after it came out as a product, and the article in "Skinned Knuckles" appeared.
The ONLY correction I would make to Evaporust's claims is that it leaves a anti-rust protective layer on the parts. I suppose this is true if you just pull the part out of the Evaporust and bag the parts up. But if you clean the parts of the "black dust" coating that remains after pulling them out of the solution, you basically have absolutely bare metal, and you need to protect it somehow, so that rust does not start attacking it again. So it is something to be aware of after washing the parts in warm water. Make sure they are dry, and oil them up.


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by bron-hertford-nc » Mon Oct 12, 2020 3:21 pm

Another great rust remover is citric acid - your grandmother used it for canning vegetables - plastic tub - warm water , add the crystals and let it work - washes off, biodegradable. Available from Duda Energy, LLC, in Decatur AL. Does not remove base metal - I've done fenders, hood, etc. with it


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Erik Johnson » Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:21 am

Evaporust is great but, unfortunately, it has doubled in price in the last five years, at least where I live.

About 12 years ago, there was a rust removal business here in MInneapolis that catered to auto restorers. They had large open tanks full of Evaporust in which they could soak car frames, fenders and other large parts. They also had a system where the large part would sit in a tray and it would be continuously bathed in a shower of Evaporust. I don't know if they are still in business. They used to have a booth at the "Back to the 50s" street rod event at the Minnesota State Fairgrounds.

Evaporust doesn't hurt paint, nickel plating or chrome plating. However, it does remove galvanized plating.

It used to be a bargain when I bought it by the gallon at Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon.

I believe Metal Rescue is the same as Evaporust. I bought two gallons of Metal Rescue on sale at Menards a few years ago but haven't needed to open a bottle yet as I am still have a gallon of Evaporust that is weak but not yet fully exhausted (I pour it back into the bottle after each session).

I have Googled in vain to try to find out what the actual chemical make-up of Evaporust is. In my opinion, it's something that one should be able to make themselves if they knew what the ingredients were.

There are a lot of opinions of what the Evaporust solution actually is, but nobody is quite sure.


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by jab35 » Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:33 am

I've seen a similar product called 'Rustbeeter' that is made from sugar beet byproducts. At the time it cost about the same as Evaporust. From time to time there have been discussions here regarding the use of blackstrap molasses-water solutions to remove rust. Raw molasses is acidic, so the molasses cocktail may not be a chelation reaction, just mild acid. I have no affiliation with, and make no endorsement of, any commercial products mentioned. YMMV, jb


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Erik Johnson » Tue Oct 13, 2020 12:09 pm

I saw a Rustbeeter demonstration at the HCCA swap meet in Forest City, IA about ten years ago.

I also use feedgrade molasses from Fleet Farm (it's actually in the hunting section) and water for rust removal. A lot of folks say that it doesn't cause problems, but it will start cratering iron and sheet metal if it is left in the bath too long.

Gary Hoonsbeen once told me that I should just simply soak stuff in citric acid and water instead of molasses and water.

A buddy of mine de-rusts body panels with vinegar.

To each his own......


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by jab35 » Tue Oct 13, 2020 12:39 pm

Eric: What proportions molasses:water do you use? Thanks, jb


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by big2bird » Tue Oct 13, 2020 12:53 pm

Erik Johnson wrote:
Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:21 am

Evaporust doesn't hurt paint, nickel plating or chrome plating. However, it does remove galvanized plating.

Glad I read this. I just bought a 5gal pail to soak a Boyco set. Now I am scared to try it on them, as the gal is strong.

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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by vech » Tue Oct 13, 2020 3:20 pm

The company also makes a product called Themocure to dissolve through chelation, the rust in a cast iron block. I can give you first hand experience with this product. I have a 1915 touring car. I live in Mississippi and it get HOT here in the summertime. The car would overheat in traffic when in town. I had to be real careful. If it was sitting still very long it would start spitting water out the overflow and rapidly get worse.
I bought myself 6 bottles of this stuff. I pulled the water inlet on the head, just to see how bad it was, and was appalled at how thick the rust was in the inlet! I could dig some of it out with a screwdriver! So I put it back together, and being male, I ignored the instructions, and filled the car with tap water and put TWO bottles of the stuff in the radiator. I ran it 20 miles on the back roads, brought it back, let it cool, and drained the water. I had to poke a wire up through the petcock from all the rust chunks to get the water to flow. It came out JET BLACK. I repeated the process again. Same result, but I noticed all the freeze plugs had begun seeping. They were no longer freeze plugs, they were dissolving rust plugs. After I replaced all of them, I did he process a 3rd time. This time, I noticed that the temp showing on the Boyce thermometer was running a LOT cooler. While driving in 95 degree weather, the Boyce meter was coming up only 2/3 of the way up to the viewing window! When I got back to my garage, I let the car idle, with the advance about 1/2 down, and turned the stopwatch on in my cell phone, and sat behind the wheel and watched. The car idled a full 14 minutes, and the red line came up only 1/3 of the way into the viewing circle. I drained it all out again, pulled the inlet again, and was amazed to see silver bare cast iron! After I put it back together, put distilled water with a mix of antifreeze and a bottle of "water wetter" and the car still runs cool when driving and never overheats in traffic.
We trailered the car to the Mississippi gulf coast last week, and drove it during the "Crusin the Coast" hot rod event. The traffic was bumper to bumper from Biloxi MS to Gulfport MS, stop light to stop light on the gulf coast highway 90. It was like a 20 mile Christmas parade! The car never got hot. I thought my left leg was gonna die, from going from neutral to low gear and back at least 1000 times over 4 days, but the car performed perfectly! And this is how I made freeze plugs out of nickels:
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"If a fly can, a flywheel" :shock:


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by OilyBill » Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:07 pm

Awesome!
And thanks for the pics of producing freeze plugs from nickels! Very handy!


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Darin Hull » Wed Oct 14, 2020 12:35 am

I, also, used Evaporust in the 13T’s water jackets to remove any rust prior to installing a new brass radiator. I found the product extremely easy to use and liked the fact the product addressed rust though the chelation... which meant it wasn’t caustic or a hazardous material.

Darin

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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Quickm007 » Wed Oct 14, 2020 3:10 pm

I also heard a lot good words about Evapo-rust. I don't know if some of you ever try Eastwood rust dissolver. It suppose to work really well too.

Also here a video made by a guy who experienced different kind of rust dissolver: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQMzUkEKaBo

I'm currious to heard about your personal experience...

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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by david_dewey » Wed Oct 14, 2020 3:34 pm

So would you recommend filling in the engine water jacket with this to clean out the water jacket?
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by vech » Wed Oct 14, 2020 3:56 pm

Thermocure will not harm rubber, or brass at all. No effects. The instructions say that heat speeds up the process. I recommend you drain and refill with straight water, and pour the stuff in, and drive it, to get it hot. At least 20 miles or more. Bring it back and drain it. Flush it out with water and do it again.
Keep doing it, until the water drain out is no longer black. My 15 was so crusty with rust, it took three tries with twice the recommended dosage to dissolve all the rust. And, if you have freeze plugs that are in questionable condition, you will find out pretty fast, so keep an eye on them.
I have decided that from now on, every spring, I am going to treat it at least once, to keep the cast iron surface as rust free as I can.
"If a fly can, a flywheel" :shock:

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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by TRDxB2 » Wed Oct 14, 2020 5:10 pm

Some research
Basically there are two formulations: One that only dissolves rust and another that bonds to the rust (iron oxide) to prevent further rust

Wikipedia
Commercial rust converters are water-based and contain two primary active ingredients: tannic acid and an organic polymer. Tannic acid chemically converts the reddish iron oxides into bluish-black ferric tannate, a more stable material.[2] The second active ingredient is an organic solvent such as 2-butoxyethanol (ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, trade name butyl cellosolve) that acts as a wetting agent and provides a protective primer layer in conjunction with an organic polymer emulsion.[citation needed] Some rust converters may contain additional acids to speed up the chemical reaction by lowering the pH of the solution. A common example is phosphoric acid, which additionally converts some iron oxide into an inert layer of ferric phosphate. Most of the rust converters contain special additives. They support the rust transformation and improve the wetting of the surface.

EVAPO-RUST®
is a soak and works at a pH of 6.1 to 7 (neutral) through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution. Most chelating agents bind many different metals. The active ingredient in EVAPO-RUS®T bonds to iron exclusively (the competitors bond to many metals). It can remove iron from iron oxide, but is too weak to remove iron from steel because the iron is held much more strongly.

Krud-Kutter is a Rust-oleum product brand
Krud-Kutter The Must for Rust
The proprietary formulation penetrates into every void of a metal surface and dissolves rust/oxidation through chemical action. Then tiny, rust-inhibiting crystals are formed and become integral with the surface molecules of the metal to resist future rusting. The corrosive agents attack these crystals instead of the metal. Once completely dry, the surface is ready for the next step, whether it be painting, welding, plating, lubricating, etc. Or simply leave the surface bare, and the crystals will inhibit future rust formation.

Krud-Kutter Rustex - Rust Converter
RUSTEX is a rust inhibiting coating which converts rusted metal overnight into a rust retarding, paintable surface. When applied to rusted surfaces, iron oxide (rust) is chemically changed to iron phosphate, an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. This increases the paint adhesion and durability of the coating.

Rust-oleum Rust Stripper
Take even the rustiest metal back down to a clean, bare surface with Rust-Oleum® Stops Rust® Rust Stripper. Simply apply directly to the rusty surface, wait 10 minutes and rinse with water. Rust will scrape off easily with a scraper or sandpaper

Rust-Oleum® Rust Dissolver
Quickly penetrates every void of metal surface to dissolve rust FAST! The powerful, proprietary formulation takes the hard work out of rust removal and transforms surfaces to like-new condition. It is a specially formulated water-based product designed to dissolve and remove rust and oxidation on a variety of surfaces. It is suitable for use on iron, steel, aluminum, chrome, galvanized metal, porcelain, tile, fiberglass, glass, auto cooling systems and firearms

Eastwood Rust Converter.
This product is a unique rust neutralizer that leaves behind a paintable surface without the need for sanding. Rust Converter stops residual rust, and turns it into a black, protective, ready-to-paint coating, without sanding. Just apply to transform the rust.

Eastwood Rust Dissolver
Removes only the rust, and won't eat-away at the metal itself. Leaves the newly de-rusted metal ready to paint, plate or powder-coat.
Reusable; Removes about 5 sq. ft. of rust per quart
Liquid rust Dissolver works as long as the surface is wet. Items that cannot be fully immersed due to size can be placed in the discharge stream of a commonly available small pump. One gallon de-rusts about 20 square feet of metal. This product is not safe to use on aluminum.

Red Oxide Paint
Red oxide is used in paints and primers as a rust preventive. If traces of rust are present on an iron surface, red oxide paint will still adhere, because it interacts with the surface by forming chemical bonds. Also called red lead, reacts with iron and iron oxides to form insoluble compounds called plumbates, in which lead is part. It is falling into disuse due to concern over lead poisoning.

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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Quickm007 » Wed Oct 14, 2020 5:26 pm

Thank you Frank,

And what is your recommandations? which one to use ? :?
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Corey Walker » Wed Oct 14, 2020 9:36 pm

I took these Overland springs to the car wash today after soaking one side for 2 days in a large tub with water and a $6 bottle of citric acid powder I bought at Walmart. They were pulled out of a field along with what was left of the car after it sat there for who knows how long but they were rusty. The citric acid did well in my opinion. I’ll mix up more and do the other side then think about doing them over. I know it works well for small parts, I soaked that carburetor in it and then wire brushed it. That engine paint is also a close match to bare cast. I probably should’ve put more acid in with the springs, I usually only mix small amounts.
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by TRDxB2 » Wed Oct 14, 2020 9:45 pm

Quickm007 wrote:
Wed Oct 14, 2020 5:26 pm
Thank you Frank,
And what is your recommandations? which one to use ? :?
I have used both Krud-Kutter products and the Rust-Oleum rust dissolver. These are phosphate based. Before I use these I wash, paint strip, de-grease the part, this makes the rust solution last longer since and these will removes some paints. Having said that, my preference is one that dissolves the rust. If the rust is really bad then they type that bonds. In both cases I scrub/wire brush/wash off all the contaminants, let dry and if needed, power wire brush. The first plate is the original rusted one with whatever was on it. The second is it after it sat in a bath and I cleaned off the contaminants (started to powder rust). Last on is power wire brushed. I use end capped PVC pipe to bath long items. Bath time 1/2 hour to overnight sometimes. I am planning to try Evapo-Rust since I found a local source to see how it works.
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Oct 14, 2020 11:25 pm

About 12 years ago, there was a rust removal business here in MInneapolis that catered to auto restorers. They had large open tanks full of Evaporust in which they could soak car frames, fenders and other large parts.
That sounds a lot like Redi-Strip. In 1982 I had a Packard body and other parts derusted at the Redi-Strip facility in Santa Fe Springs. I was very impressed with the results. At that time they had locations all over the country, but now a google search shows just a few.

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I've used Evaporust for items small enough to be covered by a gallon or less of the stuff, and it works very well. I've used molasses for some larger items, and that works too. I recently used it on a flywheel, and was pleased with the results.
IMG_5504 copy.JPG
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Erik Johnson » Thu Oct 15, 2020 11:56 am

There is/was also a place here in the Twin Cities that did wholesale dipping of car bodies and frames, etc. but that was using a caustic chemical, not Evaporust, that removed paint and rust. The fellow that owned it was in the antique car hobby and retired and sold the business to someone else. Don't know if they are still in business.

I have the business card somewhere in the files for the business that I mentioned earlier that was using Evaporust right in here in Minneapolis proper. They promoted that they were environmentally friendly and I think they had "Enviro" in their business name. There is a restoration shop here in the Twin Cities that does high-end, concourse quality restorations and I do know they used that Evaporust based business in the past for sheet metal and frames.

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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Dan B » Thu Oct 15, 2020 12:41 pm

How do you get rid of rusty molasses?
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by TRDxB2 » Thu Oct 15, 2020 1:13 pm

Dan B wrote:
Thu Oct 15, 2020 12:41 pm
How do you get rid of rusty molasses?
Glad you asked. Link says to use feed molasses (not human type) as a rust remover sounds interesting https://forums.aaca.org/topic/160333-ru ... -molasses/. Doesn't say how to dispose of the tank residue
This link explains Evapo-Rust vs Molasses https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/surface- ... y-metal/4/
Chemically and in principle, molasses removes rust effectively through a process called chelation. Simply put, the chemicals in a molasses solution would draw away the oxygen from the iron oxide and leave the iron behind. This is the same principle as Evapo- Rust, but using the molasses solution requires much more time to de-rust parts compared to every other solution, requiring a week or even several weeks to effectively remove rust.


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Erik Johnson » Thu Oct 15, 2020 4:22 pm

RE: molasses - see this old thread from the forum

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/17 ... 1310536193

It is feed grade molasses which is not thick like what is used in cooking.

https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/evolve ... t=molasses

I mix it 5:1 or 4:1 water to molasses. The mixture is very thin and watery so it can be poured down the drain but you don't have to pour it down all at once - you can parcel it out. You can always add more water to the solution before putting it down the drain and then run more water afterwards.

I'm on a municipal sewer so it probably isn't recommended if you have a septic tank. If you live in a rural area, you could always toss it in the woods and give the insects and wild animals a treat.

I only occasionally use molasses and water. I like Evaporust on nickel or chrome plated items and on painted items when I don't want to use a wire wheel and want to save the paint.

If I had 220V service in the garage, I would have a compressor and blasting cabinet and wouldn't need to rely strictly on a wire wheel or liquid concoctions.

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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by TFan » Tue Oct 20, 2020 7:33 pm

Alright group, I read about how well Evaporust worked and went out and acquired some. I was amazed at how well it worked but I have a question, I de-rusted the dials of my Bridgeport mill and boy do they look nice. But how do I keep them that way? They look to be cast and will constantly rust in my pole barn with the change in temps they get a lot of condensation I'm thinking a clear coat of some sort. Any suggestions would be appreciated and welcomed. Thanks


Pics of dials after cleaning they were so rusted you could not read them. The one on the right is after a light wire brushing on a wire wheel (gets rid of the gray look)
DSCN0842.JPG
I'm thinking one of these two for protection
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Back road kinda guy stuck on the freeway of life.

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Duey_C
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Duey_C » Wed Oct 21, 2020 11:43 pm

I agree about evaporust. Just got a pail and soaked a cast iron part and a few steel parts. (more OT parts commentary)
Good stuff! Did it in the house but the cast iron after brushing down and rinsing was oh so happy to start rusting again.
The steel spark plug wire tube was more forgiving there.
No smell, no muss-no fuss.
If the parts are really rusty, get your brushes ready too. Brush the parts when rinsing. The rust/iron will get on your hands.
Just wash it off.
Have the paint ready to go!
It's later in the evening so I won't clean up, put the evaporust back in the pail so I can soak more parts.

Jim, those parts look great!
I'd bet some clear coat would work fine if the mill is inside. Some say clears will yellow etc outside but inside the building?
:)
Since I lost my mind mind, I feel more liberated


DickC
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by DickC » Thu Oct 22, 2020 2:29 am

Fifty years ago I was using a product called, OKITE 33. It worked very well on small parts by brushing the product with the foam that was created upon application. I cleaned a 1922 frame and washed the product off and painted it with DuPont cintary. Still looks like new. A friend hung a Model A body from a tree and cleaned it down with Okite. Paint adhered with no imperfections for years.


John kuehn
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by John kuehn » Thu Oct 22, 2020 9:27 am

Maybe I missed it but what effect does it have on babbitt. I have a 25 T block and thought about trying it. By now it seems it’s been done and was wondering how it came out.


ThreePedalTapDancer
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by ThreePedalTapDancer » Thu Oct 22, 2020 11:58 am

Molasses will pit some cast iron surfaces, and engine blocks once removed from the molasses were pitted, needing resurfacing. Same with brake rotors, they come out derusted, but with severe pitting. Depends on the makeup of the cast iron I suppose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzoQj91glP4

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DanTreace
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by DanTreace » Thu Oct 22, 2020 6:36 pm

The molasses works for me. Got this rusty '25-'26 hot stove pipe at Luray for a 2 $, its for the carb that uses the combo choke/ adj. rod as it has the recess to clear that rod. Been soaking since Luray.

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Just spray off the gunk with a hose and a trip to the wire brush, a few minutes later and all cleaned up!
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Spray coat of rust reformer and buff with white rag to a semi shine..... ready to install

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The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford


big2bird
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by big2bird » Fri Oct 23, 2020 6:49 pm

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Well, I'm sold. The great thing is the cans are just as clean inside. You won't get that with bead blasting.
Very user friendly stuff.


John kuehn
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by John kuehn » Sat Oct 24, 2020 8:37 am

Looks great! Did you submerse the cans all at once or one at a time in a container. I have a 25 block and thinking about using evapo rust and wondering how much of it to use.


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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by big2bird » Sat Oct 24, 2020 9:45 am

John kuehn wrote:
Sat Oct 24, 2020 8:37 am
Looks great! Did you submerse the cans all at once or one at a time in a container. I have a 25 block and thinking about using evapo rust and wondering how much of it to use.
I bought a 5 gallon container, and soaked each one at a time overnight. The oil can I soaked with lacquer thinner first to remove the residue.

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TRDxB2
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by TRDxB2 » Sat Oct 24, 2020 11:06 am

Regardless of what rust remover product you use to de-rust some parts it is reusable to a point. T get the most for you money, clean the parts first - wash off dirt and grease; if the product removes paint then use a paint stripper first (cheaper in the end). Evaporust says one gallon de-rusts up to 300 lbs. of steel. While some of these de-rust products say they are "safe" to the environment the hodge-podge of residue left is not so dispose of that responsibly.


Erik Johnson
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by Erik Johnson » Sat Oct 24, 2020 12:28 pm

RE: running board cans

The Evapo Rust label says it is safe on galvanizing, but that has not been my experience.

My neighbor gave me some galvanized shelf brackets that had been sitting in his garage and they did have some areas of rust so I gave them a soak in Evapo-Rust. It removed 100% of the zinc plating. It's possible I left them in the solution too long.

It doesn't harm nickel or chrome in my experience.


big2bird
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Re: Rust removal Evapo-Rust

Post by big2bird » Sun Oct 25, 2020 8:14 am

Erik Johnson wrote:
Sat Oct 24, 2020 12:28 pm
RE: running board cans

The Evapo Rust label says it is safe on galvanizing, but that has not been my experience.

My neighbor gave me some galvanized shelf brackets that had been sitting in his garage and they did have some areas of rust so I gave them a soak in Evapo-Rust. It removed 100% of the zinc plating. It's possible I left them in the solution too long.

It doesn't harm nickel or chrome in my experience.
Boyco cans are not galvanized, they are Terne Plate. (lead/tin).

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