Re installing engine

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geoffrey mark
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Re installing engine

Post by geoffrey mark » Wed Oct 28, 2020 1:19 pm

Had engine and trans out of 1923 touring to install new bands and hog head gasket , will it go back in with 3 pedals and starter motor fitted ? Thanks

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RajoRacer
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Re: Re installing engine

Post by RajoRacer » Wed Oct 28, 2020 1:21 pm

Sure - be much easier with the steering column out of the way !


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geoffrey mark
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Re: Re installing engine

Post by geoffrey mark » Wed Oct 28, 2020 1:24 pm

Thanks , I have the steering volume removed !

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Steve Jelf
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Re: Re installing engine

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Oct 28, 2020 1:38 pm

You just have to tilt it back far enough to get the pedals under the firewall.
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: Re installing engine

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Oct 28, 2020 2:09 pm

Are you going to install the engine in the frame and roll the frame under the suspended body, or install the motor onto the frame with the body already mounted on the frame? I assume the latter, in which case, disconnect the body and all fuel and steering column connections from the frame and raise the body enough to clear the pedals by putting wooden blocks on top of the frame and under the body on each side, tilting the body back until it clears the pedals and hogshead. Jim Patrick

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Re: Re installing engine

Post by Quickm007 » Wed Oct 28, 2020 2:15 pm

I always remove the firewall on my 1914 and 1911...I thought it was impossible removing the engine without removing the Firewall as well. Is it possible doing this procedure without removing firewall? Maybe it is a stupid question I'm asking for myself as well. Anyone have tips to share ? I'm always ready to learn something new.
Last edited by Quickm007 on Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:15 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Super Mario Bross ;)

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geoffrey mark
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Re: Re installing engine

Post by geoffrey mark » Wed Oct 28, 2020 3:53 pm

Was hoping to install it with the body still in place


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Re: Re installing engine

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:10 pm

I don’t think the firewall is removable. You might be able to do it with the body in place by loosening the pedals and wiring them down, but the hogshead hump will still need to be cleared. If you have a engine hoist, you may be able to tilt the rear of the engine down with the nose up and carefully inch it in place under the firewall with the pan supports sitting on the frame and sliding rearwards. I have posted a picture of a lifting eye (sold by Snyder’s) that screws into the spark plug hole for lifting and tilting the engine as I described. I’m pretty sure the radiator will need to be removed for this. I believe you said the steering column is out, which is necessary. Good luck. Jim Patrick

4B805D9F-2E0E-4B7F-89B4-AC681F7F7680.jpeg
Last edited by jiminbartow on Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Re: Re installing engine

Post by RajoRacer » Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:11 pm

You can leave the bands loose enough to tie them down to gain clearance for the firewall but as Steve J. stated, you do need to tip up the engine to maneuver it under the firewall - no need to lift the body !

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Re: Re installing engine

Post by Quickm007 » Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:14 pm

Hi Mark,

Apologies, the way I wrote my comments it could be interpreted you asking
stupid question. It is not the case, your question is pretty good for that
reason I said maybe I'm asking stupid question or doing something it is not
necessary when I removed all the time my firewall as well when I removing
the engine.

Sorry for any confusion I may did it was not bad intends.

Sincerely,

Mario
Super Mario Bross ;)

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Re: Re installing engine

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:31 pm

If you don’t have an engine hoist or eye lift, you can get a couple of strong friends to help you install the engine onto the frame. Lower the engine in place as far back as it will go against the firewall (if painted, you might want to protect the frame with strips of metal flashing). Using the swivel points of the pan supports tilt the engine nose up as much as necessary for the pedals and hogshead hump to clear the firewall while sliding the engine rearward until the pan holes line up. Jim Patrick
Last edited by jiminbartow on Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.


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Re: Re installing engine

Post by geoffrey mark » Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:39 pm

Thanks all for advice , will give it a go this weekend hopefully !


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Re: Re installing engine

Post by tom_strickling » Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:49 pm

with an engine hoist and a helper it is easy (enough) to do without removing the body or the firewall.


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Re: Re installing engine

Post by jiminbartow » Wed Oct 28, 2020 4:55 pm

A precaution to watch for is the emergency brake linkage that might get in the way as you push the engine back. If you see that the linkage will interfere with the engine as you tilt the rear up into place when it clears the firewall, you may need to remove the linkage and move it back out of the way until the engine is in. Others may want to chime in and say whether this is a problem or not. Jim Patrick

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Re: Re installing engine

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Oct 28, 2020 5:08 pm

You don't have to remove the body. On my 1923 I did have to raise the front of the body a couple of inches because the guys who "restored" the car installed non-stock wood pieces behind the brackets. I expect on a stock 1923 you can let the body sit. If you do have to raise the front of the body, undo the brackets from the frame and remove the front and middle pairs of body bolts and just loosen the rear ones a little.
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: Re installing engine

Post by Michael Peternell » Wed Oct 28, 2020 7:29 pm

jiminbartow wrote:
Wed Oct 28, 2020 2:09 pm
Are you going to install the engine in the frame and roll the frame under the suspended body, or install the motor onto the frame with the body already mounted on the frame? I assume the latter, in which case, disconnect the body and all fuel and steering column connections from the frame and raise the body enough to clear the pedals by putting wooden blocks on top of the frame and under the body on each side, tilting the body back until it clears the pedals and hogshead. Jim Patrick
Exactly! I used 2 lifting eyes in the water outlet. A little turn and a twist and it will go right in. I had to lift the body to clear the rear engine mounts
on a '15. Only took about 2 " under the front body mount's. I only removed the front two pairs of mounts and loosened the last two. I doubted but was reassured by some character in St Joseph Mn. 2 people would make it easier but I got to do it a couple times in a month
and a half! Lining up the drive shaft can be a bit of a trick but a few trips under the car can get it done! '26/27 hogs head with starter.


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Re: Re installing engine

Post by John kuehn » Wed Oct 28, 2020 8:40 pm

Model T’s from 17-25 have a removable firewall. When your pulling the engine it does make it easier when the firewall and steering column is removed. You don’t have to raise the body on the cars I have. I’ve removed and reinstalled the engines with and without the firewall in my 24 Coupe, 1919 Roadster and 21 Touring. But I do have to say removing the firewall makes it much easier when your working by yourself.

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Re: Re installing engine

Post by DanTreace » Wed Oct 28, 2020 9:03 pm

Easy one person with a good lift, and plug hole eyes positioned for max tilt. Clears firewall.


Pedals behind firewall:

7BDFD532-3D41-4F27-B155-8A7B17EAED9F.jpeg

Pedals now clear:
5ABC82B5-7FB9-448D-9BD9-F40C3FB1619A.jpeg
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Re: Re installing engine

Post by Steve Jelf » Wed Oct 28, 2020 10:29 pm

with an engine hoist and a helper it is easy (enough) to do without removing the body or the firewall.
IMG_0133 copy 2.JPG
Helper? What is that? :D
Note the steering wheel back against the seat.
The inevitable often happens.
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Re: Re installing engine

Post by TonyB » Wed Oct 28, 2020 10:39 pm

On my 14 Touring I can remove and replace the motor without removing the steering column but I have to leave the starter off. It’s tight but I’ve done it a couple of times. I use a lifting eye in #4 for the vertical lift and then switch to one in #1 for the vertical lift.
I also helped a friend within the last month on his 15 also using this technique.
I find it easier to remove and replace the starter rather than the steering column. I suppose it’s a matter of personal preference😊
Tony Bowker
La Mesa, California
1914 Touring, 1915 Speedster, 1924 Coupe.

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