Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
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Topic author - Posts: 892
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:28 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Brakke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 coupe
- Location: Ames, Iowa
Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
Attached are 3 photos of the sediment bulb on my 1927 coupe. How do I remove it.
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- Posts: 2434
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
Unscrew it counter-clockwise......
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Topic author - Posts: 892
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:28 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Brakke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 coupe
- Location: Ames, Iowa
Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
What I meant was, Help Needed because it is "frozen" and won't turn.
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- First Name: James
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Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
Review your post, “Gas cap, still can’t get it off”. Just about every possible suggestion on freeing up frozen threads was proposed in that thread. Good luck. Jim Patrick
Last edited by jiminbartow on Wed Mar 10, 2021 1:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- First Name: Frank
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Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
Here is the thread, that Jim pointed out,where various recommendations were provided to you
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... ap#p148410
What have you tried so far?
https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... ap#p148410
What have you tried so far?
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
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- First Name: George P
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Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
I used a pipe wrench to remove mine with a piece of leather as so to not mar the metal.
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- First Name: James
- Last Name: Golden
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Model T Roadster
- Location: Bowie, MD
Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
First, I put some penetrating oil around the thread area and soaked it awhile, then I put a short straight piece of pipe in the side where the gas comes out to the line, then I took a long handled heavy box end wrench and put one end over the pipe and the other end straight up. With a steady pull, it soon started turning.
The whole bulb appears to be brass! That is quite unusual!
The gas shut off lever is wired behind, a cleaver idea, but why!
If that part is messed up, an early 1928 gas shut off lever is identical, if you cut the finger off the top and round the area some what.
Note the little screw in the second photo that has to be removed to remove the drain pipe and gas tank.
The whole bulb appears to be brass! That is quite unusual!
The gas shut off lever is wired behind, a cleaver idea, but why!
If that part is messed up, an early 1928 gas shut off lever is identical, if you cut the finger off the top and round the area some what.
Note the little screw in the second photo that has to be removed to remove the drain pipe and gas tank.
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Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
James
Most of those script late bulbs are cast iron, so brass one is unique.
The handle was wired to save it, as the valve stem with its milled flats on the shank is now rounded off from wear. The handle hole fits to the valve stem shank.
Factory details:
Most of those script late bulbs are cast iron, so brass one is unique.
The handle was wired to save it, as the valve stem with its milled flats on the shank is now rounded off from wear. The handle hole fits to the valve stem shank.
Factory details:
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Topic author - Posts: 892
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:28 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Brakke
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Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
Thank you, Jim Golden! I did what you described; that is, put a large box end wrench over the gas outlet and out it came.
Should I reuse the bulb or replace it? Thoughts anyone.
Should I reuse the bulb or replace it? Thoughts anyone.
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Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
While it's always nice to keep stock, your valve body is destroyed at the lever end.
The milled end is rounded, and the keyed lever won't fit anymore, can see where in the past pliers were used to grasp the valve to open and close.
Don't think replacement valve bodies can be had, even then, fitting the cone valve to existing seat may still leak. A new reproduction $60 sediment bulb would be easier, but depending on what you can do, repair could be done.
Did one fix by sealing the factory valve that was in poor and leaking shape in the open position, and then added a carb type shut off at the elbow, bypassing the worn leaking original valve.
The milled end is rounded, and the keyed lever won't fit anymore, can see where in the past pliers were used to grasp the valve to open and close.
Don't think replacement valve bodies can be had, even then, fitting the cone valve to existing seat may still leak. A new reproduction $60 sediment bulb would be easier, but depending on what you can do, repair could be done.
Did one fix by sealing the factory valve that was in poor and leaking shape in the open position, and then added a carb type shut off at the elbow, bypassing the worn leaking original valve.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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- Posts: 1230
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Model T Roadster
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Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
Bruce, I just went through that procedure with a leaky valve.
The valve had set in one place for a long time without being turned off and a rust or corrosion wart had grown on the inlet area.
I wire brushed that off, cleaned all the paint a debris off, added some fine valve grinding compound and spun the valve with an electric drill.
Then cleaned everything again and added some E Z Lube around the tapered area.
Your valve looks like it was turned with pliers for some time, but the handle notch and thread area look OK.
The guy may have just lost the nut to hold the handle in place.
The rough shaft could be cleaned and smoothed, so the gasket area should still be good.
The handles are not available, but the early 1928 handle is the same if you cut off the finger that limits travel and smooth the top rounded area.
The whole valve and filter assembly is evidently available new for about $70.00.
The valve had set in one place for a long time without being turned off and a rust or corrosion wart had grown on the inlet area.
I wire brushed that off, cleaned all the paint a debris off, added some fine valve grinding compound and spun the valve with an electric drill.
Then cleaned everything again and added some E Z Lube around the tapered area.
Your valve looks like it was turned with pliers for some time, but the handle notch and thread area look OK.
The guy may have just lost the nut to hold the handle in place.
The rough shaft could be cleaned and smoothed, so the gasket area should still be good.
The handles are not available, but the early 1928 handle is the same if you cut off the finger that limits travel and smooth the top rounded area.
The whole valve and filter assembly is evidently available new for about $70.00.
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Topic author - Posts: 892
- Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:28 pm
- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Brakke
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 coupe
- Location: Ames, Iowa
Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
The two attached photos show the non-metallic "plug" that fit around the gas line. Is there a replacement for it if I damage it during removal. I plan on removing the the gas tank.
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- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
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Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
The overflow drain pipe is held with 2921 long single slot set screw and retained on the lower cowl with a hook shaped fastener with nut inside cowl.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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- Posts: 5370
- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Gregush
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
- Location: Portland Or
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
Looks like the overflow pipe missing.
Last edited by Mark Gregush on Tue Mar 16, 2021 9:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- Posts: 3813
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘12 open express,'23 cutoff, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- Board Member Since: 2000
- Contact:
Re: Sediment Bulb--Help Needed
That ‘non metallic plug’ is the burlap gasket #3 in triangle in the drawing. No replacement is made as repro, save it or use as pattern with a heavy thickness of canvas or composite substitute.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford