23T exhaust

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tommyleea
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23T exhaust

Post by tommyleea » Tue Mar 09, 2021 10:01 pm

Do you mount your muffler solid to the frame, or use some type of flexible hangar? Thanks


Mark Osterman
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Re: 23T exhaust

Post by Mark Osterman » Tue Mar 09, 2021 10:21 pm

On my 23 runabout I bolt the muffler solid to the frame and the end of the exhaust pipe simply rests inside the inlet pipe with no clamp. I prefer the cast iron end version muffler.


Allan
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Re: 23T exhaust

Post by Allan » Tue Mar 09, 2021 10:30 pm

Early cars with cast iron ended mufflers had a slip joint at the front of the muffler. The muffler itself was bolted to the frame firmly at each end.
Millions of subsequent T's came with the one piece pipe and muffler assembly firmly bolted to the frame at the back only. Presumably there was enough flex in the steel end bracket to allow some expansion of the pipe length. Others will come up with ways to improve the situation which may or may not be necessary.

Allan from down under.


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tommyleea
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Re: 23T exhaust

Post by tommyleea » Wed Mar 10, 2021 8:23 am

Thanks for the inputs. I will have to do some adjusting to get the muffler close enough to the frame to mount solid. Might need some spacers.

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Mark Gregush
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Re: 23T exhaust

Post by Mark Gregush » Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:32 am

It I am installing a modern tractor type, I clamp the exhaust pipe to muffler inlet at the front and use a flex hanger at the rear.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas! :shock:

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup


Norman Kling
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Re: 23T exhaust

Post by Norman Kling » Wed Mar 10, 2021 11:17 am

If the muffler won't bolt to the lower frame rail, your exhaust pipe between the manifold and the muffler might be bent at the wrong angle. Another possible cause would be if the frame sags at the crankcase ear, which is quite common especially on the right side. Best fix for that would be to straighten the frame. Then the doors and hood will fit correctly. Sometimes the body is shimmed up to compensate for a sag in the frame, but that will only correct the fit of the door and the hood. If that be the case, the pipe must be bent to make it fit unless the frame is straightened. Straightening will also correct the castor of the front wheels and keep the car from pulling to one side.
Norm


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tommyleea
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Re: 23T exhaust

Post by tommyleea » Wed Mar 10, 2021 2:47 pm

Mark Gregush wrote:
Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:32 am
It I am installing a modern tractor type, I clamp the exhaust pipe to muffler inlet at the front and use a flex hanger at the rear.
That sounds like a plan..Thanks..


If the muffler won't bolt to the lower frame rail, your exhaust pipe between the manifold and the muffler might be bent at the wrong angle. Another possible cause would be if the frame sags at the crankcase ear, which is quite common especially on the right side. Best fix for that would be to straighten the frame. Then the doors and hood will fit correctly. Sometimes the body is shimmed up to compensate for a sag in the frame, but that will only correct the fit of the door and the hood. If that be the case, the pipe must be bent to make it fit unless the frame is straightened. Straightening will also correct the castor of the front wheels and keep the car from pulling to one side.
Norm
[/quote]

I am adjusting things now to make both the exhaust and fuel line in the best positions. Thanks Norman..


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Re: 23T exhaust

Post by Allan » Wed Mar 10, 2021 6:15 pm

The exhaust pipe needs 'adjusting'. Fitting spacers/shims/alternative mountings are all masking the real problem, one which is not uncommon with reproduction exhaust pipes. I would take the pipe off and make the 'adjustment'. All you need is a fork in a tree so you can slightly increase the bend.
The bigger the tree the better, as that will reduce the likelihood of crimping the pipe.

Allan from down under.

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