23T exhaust
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Topic author - Posts: 151
- Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2020 3:11 pm
- First Name: Tommy
- Last Name: Russell
- Location: Missouri
23T exhaust
Do you mount your muffler solid to the frame, or use some type of flexible hangar? Thanks
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- Posts: 1014
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 10:18 pm
- First Name: Mark
- Last Name: Osterman
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 runabout
- Location: Rochester, NY
- Contact:
Re: 23T exhaust
On my 23 runabout I bolt the muffler solid to the frame and the end of the exhaust pipe simply rests inside the inlet pipe with no clamp. I prefer the cast iron end version muffler.
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- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: 23T exhaust
Early cars with cast iron ended mufflers had a slip joint at the front of the muffler. The muffler itself was bolted to the frame firmly at each end.
Millions of subsequent T's came with the one piece pipe and muffler assembly firmly bolted to the frame at the back only. Presumably there was enough flex in the steel end bracket to allow some expansion of the pipe length. Others will come up with ways to improve the situation which may or may not be necessary.
Allan from down under.
Millions of subsequent T's came with the one piece pipe and muffler assembly firmly bolted to the frame at the back only. Presumably there was enough flex in the steel end bracket to allow some expansion of the pipe length. Others will come up with ways to improve the situation which may or may not be necessary.
Allan from down under.
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Topic author - Posts: 151
- Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2020 3:11 pm
- First Name: Tommy
- Last Name: Russell
- Location: Missouri
Re: 23T exhaust
Thanks for the inputs. I will have to do some adjusting to get the muffler close enough to the frame to mount solid. Might need some spacers.
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- First Name: Mark
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
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Re: 23T exhaust
It I am installing a modern tractor type, I clamp the exhaust pipe to muffler inlet at the front and use a flex hanger at the rear.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup
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- First Name: Norman
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Re: 23T exhaust
If the muffler won't bolt to the lower frame rail, your exhaust pipe between the manifold and the muffler might be bent at the wrong angle. Another possible cause would be if the frame sags at the crankcase ear, which is quite common especially on the right side. Best fix for that would be to straighten the frame. Then the doors and hood will fit correctly. Sometimes the body is shimmed up to compensate for a sag in the frame, but that will only correct the fit of the door and the hood. If that be the case, the pipe must be bent to make it fit unless the frame is straightened. Straightening will also correct the castor of the front wheels and keep the car from pulling to one side.
Norm
Norm
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Topic author - Posts: 151
- Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2020 3:11 pm
- First Name: Tommy
- Last Name: Russell
- Location: Missouri
Re: 23T exhaust
That sounds like a plan..Thanks..Mark Gregush wrote: ↑Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:32 amIt I am installing a modern tractor type, I clamp the exhaust pipe to muffler inlet at the front and use a flex hanger at the rear.
If the muffler won't bolt to the lower frame rail, your exhaust pipe between the manifold and the muffler might be bent at the wrong angle. Another possible cause would be if the frame sags at the crankcase ear, which is quite common especially on the right side. Best fix for that would be to straighten the frame. Then the doors and hood will fit correctly. Sometimes the body is shimmed up to compensate for a sag in the frame, but that will only correct the fit of the door and the hood. If that be the case, the pipe must be bent to make it fit unless the frame is straightened. Straightening will also correct the castor of the front wheels and keep the car from pulling to one side.
Norm
[/quote]
I am adjusting things now to make both the exhaust and fuel line in the best positions. Thanks Norman..
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- Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: 23T exhaust
The exhaust pipe needs 'adjusting'. Fitting spacers/shims/alternative mountings are all masking the real problem, one which is not uncommon with reproduction exhaust pipes. I would take the pipe off and make the 'adjustment'. All you need is a fork in a tree so you can slightly increase the bend.
The bigger the tree the better, as that will reduce the likelihood of crimping the pipe.
Allan from down under.
The bigger the tree the better, as that will reduce the likelihood of crimping the pipe.
Allan from down under.