I have had the springs blast cleaned to bare metal and have applied a Rust-Oleum primer as shown in the attached photos. I plan to paint each leaf with a Rust-Oleum satin. I will then brush a graphite slip paint to the bottom of each leaf, except the bottom leaf.
Any comments?
Here is What I Plan to Do with My 1927 Coupe's Springs
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- Posts: 6523
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
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Re: Here is What I Plan to Do with My 1927 Coupe's Springs
The very best reply you got in the very beginning, on a different thread, was to use a graphite-based paint (slip paint, ez-slide, etc) on BARE leaf. I am pretty sure the product also says to apply it to the bare metal.
You've now primed the leaves and are going to use the product in a manner not suggested by the manufacturer. My guess is that it will work to your satisfaction, because, after all, what do you have to gauge "success" or "failure" against? I know for a fact that when applied as directed by the manufacturer, it works very well and is very durable. As far as Rustoleum primer, I've never been impressed with it, and in reality, can be dented or damaged with a fingernail for weeks after application, even in a very arid climate. After several weeks of curing, it seems fine for what it is, but it is not and never will be as good as a modern epoxy-type automotive primer.
Personally, I would have taken Dan's advice (which follows the ez-slide mfg. advice, and probably Slip Paint, too). The one thing I've never seen mentioned on the forum is that you should follow the cure of the graphite paint with a good burnishing prior to assembly. I found that a flat wooden stick (paint stirrer or 1x2, etc) does the job very nicely and leaves a very slick and shiny surface on the metal.
You've now primed the leaves and are going to use the product in a manner not suggested by the manufacturer. My guess is that it will work to your satisfaction, because, after all, what do you have to gauge "success" or "failure" against? I know for a fact that when applied as directed by the manufacturer, it works very well and is very durable. As far as Rustoleum primer, I've never been impressed with it, and in reality, can be dented or damaged with a fingernail for weeks after application, even in a very arid climate. After several weeks of curing, it seems fine for what it is, but it is not and never will be as good as a modern epoxy-type automotive primer.
Personally, I would have taken Dan's advice (which follows the ez-slide mfg. advice, and probably Slip Paint, too). The one thing I've never seen mentioned on the forum is that you should follow the cure of the graphite paint with a good burnishing prior to assembly. I found that a flat wooden stick (paint stirrer or 1x2, etc) does the job very nicely and leaves a very slick and shiny surface on the metal.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- First Name: john
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Re: Here is What I Plan to Do with My 1927 Coupe's Springs
Never liked a light primer under black paint. It will speckle with sand & gravel chips. Were it mine, I would have primered with flat black & coated rubbing surfaces with McKay spray graphite, then, after assembly, a semi gloss black. I think i already gave that idea.
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- First Name: James
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
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Re: Here is What I Plan to Do with My 1927 Coupe's Springs
Bruce was given all of the advice and suggestions he needed to make his decision, including the procedure he chose. That is the purpose of the forum. To give the inquirer all of the information he needs to weigh and arrive at the choice he deems the best in his opinion. The last thing Bruce needs is to be criticized, thereby giving him cause to second guess his decision. While I suggested the same bare metal approach that Scott just reiterated, I see nothing wrong with the procedure Bruce has chosen for his springs. He obviously wants to do a good job and is asking plenty of questions in order to achieve a successful restoration which I have no doubt he will, with our help and support. Jim Patrick