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Topic author
NY John T
- Posts: 436
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:45 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Killelea
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring, 1927 Tudor, 1925 Touring
- Location: Northport NY
- Board Member Since: 2020
Post
by NY John T » Sat Jul 03, 2021 10:18 am
Hi all,
I'm trying to understand how the priming and adjusting rod works. It adjusts the air fuel mixture on the Holley, right? And attached to this rod is a clip for the wire to the choke to adjust the choke, right? When one turns the rod from the dashboard, aren't you adjusting both at the same time? On my 27 Toudor the clip has a screw (not original) that should hold it from moving, but mine does not. What is the way this system works? When one turns the rod from the dash, do both air fuel mixture and choke valve open? It this the way it normally works? I'm confused.
Thanks for any suggestions. I've attached a picture.
John
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DanTreace
- Posts: 3813
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘12 open express,'23 cutoff, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- Board Member Since: 2000
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Contact:
Post
by DanTreace » Sat Jul 03, 2021 10:37 am
John
The 'sleeve' is that, just a sleeve. That allows the rod to turn within the sleeve, and the rod only adjusts the carb needle, by turning the needle closed or open.
The choke is independent off the needle adjustment. This 'combo' works this way. Pull the rod out of the dash, and the sleeve with the wire to the carb choke butterfly comes up, due the the placement of a pin, screw or cotter in the rod. The lower end of the sleeve is hauled up by that rigid cotter tugging it up as the rod comes out of the dash.
Relax the rod, and the spring on the carb butterfly pulls the sleeve and rod together, back to normal carb opening.
Dual actions.
- IMG_3504 (573x580).jpg (112.88 KiB) Viewed 1593 times
Full choke, rod pulled out of dash, pulls up the sleeve, closes choke. NOTE: the rod has a square shaft lower end, that fits the square connector, allow the rod to twist and turn the needle valve, the rod isn't round there, as it could not twist the needle valve. And a universal joint is there to make the angle to the dash work the mechanics.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Topic author
NY John T
- Posts: 436
- Joined: Wed Nov 25, 2020 12:45 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Killelea
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring, 1927 Tudor, 1925 Touring
- Location: Northport NY
- Board Member Since: 2020
Post
by NY John T » Sat Jul 03, 2021 11:07 am
Amazing! What a concept. I never figured that out. Thank you so much Dan.
John
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TXGOAT2
- Posts: 7391
- Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:08 pm
- First Name: Pat
- Last Name: McNallen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926-7 roadster
- Location: Graham, Texas
- Board Member Since: 2021
Post
by TXGOAT2 » Sat Jul 03, 2021 4:33 pm
Rotate the dash knob (gently) to adjust fuel mixture. Pull the knob away from the dash to choke the engine for starting. The knob should return to its normal position automaticaly when pull is released.
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Original Smith
- Posts: 3699
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Post
by Original Smith » Sun Jul 04, 2021 10:43 am
Notice how the wire is bent just before it connects to the carburetor. I did mine the same way from a NOS original I have.
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speedytinc
- Posts: 4726
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- Board Member Since: 2020
Post
by speedytinc » Sun Jul 04, 2021 12:30 pm
Original Smith wrote: ↑Sun Jul 04, 2021 10:43 am
Notice how the wire is bent just before it connects to the carburetor. I did mine the same way from a NOS original I have.
The set up in question has the "wrong" carb. the throttle & choke levers are the long, early type.(20-23) Not really important, but do require a dog leg bent in the choke rod to clear the second front choke rod.
The factory? drawing shows an earlier(23-24-25?) short, but, straight choke arm also requiring a dog leg bend to clear the second choke rod.
The typical late carb has a dog leg built into one of the choke arms already to clear the second choke wire so the dog leg in the choke wire isnt necessary. Is that a post 25 change? Did they still use a dog leg choke rod on those later units? dont know. Maybe someone can answer that question.
