Over oiling the engine.

[speedytinc]

I believe extra oil or an assured source of extra oil to the front of the motor is important. My first T had a mag post oiler. It didnt move but a trickle. Results vary wildly depending on your oil level. I keep mine centered between the 2 petcocks per spec with a dip stick. Way back, I built my own high volume oiler, similar & mounted the same as the Texas T High Volume oil kit. I use the Texas casting on my own cars & install & recommend them to others. (From here on with a warning.) This is NOT a product bashing! Repeat. This is not a product bashing.
I have noticed extra oil burning/smoke from those T's that have them. I have been meaning to address this problem on my most recent build.
Problem: @ high vacuum, the motor sucks up extra oil. This is a hi compression motor. On acceleration it smokes. Had a few Karens mention it. (my response)
There is more noticeable oil consumption. Not a noticeable cloud as I drive. Cant see behind myself though.
I may have made the condition worse, but the issue exists on the non modified units also. I modified mine for max flow.
MORE IS BETTER. right?
The original sheet metal pickup opening is only about 3/8 x 1". I made a bigger one- 5/8 x 2" & did a bunch of opening & smoothing to the ramp & feed port. The 3/8 copper line could be improved. I used a 1/2" gas appliance flex line(bigger fittings) for volume, flex, & an added oil cooler effect. I believe the larger pick up with the slung oil pressure creates the equivalent of a reservoir 2" above the hogs head in function. Sustained oil supply for the steepest hills.
The solution would seem to be metering the flow down @ the pan, but, how, how much & what about an unknown/unseeable obstruction in the meter? Another poster tried 3/6" & ended up with 1/8". Changing the line & adding a clear tube would allow for easy monitoring of unobstructed flow.

2 am, my dim witted mind kicked me awake with the answer!
Replace the 90 degree line fitting with a 90 lever gas valve. Note handle position for meter size. An occasional valve full open & run @ idle may bring back the over oil smoking condition, confirming an unobstructed oil flow if the full open hole is large enough. If not, an annual undoing the line for a visual orifice inspection or a line change to some clear tubing. I do have an effective transmission screen, but, it might not catch everything first.
Comments welcomed.

[Norman Kling]

I use magneto plug oilers on all my T's. To check, remove the front bolt from the inspection plate under the oiler and see if oil runs out, or loosen the oil line where it attaches at the front of the engine and start the engine. Oil should come out if it is working. Usually if there is a problem it is because something in the magneto plug is blocking the oil hole.
I fill my crankcase to the top petcock and then before each time I drive, I open the lower one to see if oil drains out. If it doesn't, I run a small wire in to unblock it. If it still doesn't run out, I fill to the top petcock. If I am about to go on a long drive, I will fill to the top petcock, just in case I might run low along the tour, but usually I don't need to add between changes, because the engine has been rebuilt and the leaks have been stopped.
Norm

[Joe Bell]

John, You may be on to something, I have the same set up but i have about 30 thousand miles on my T and it is starting to smoke coming down hills and idling for a while, I have run the 1/2 tube and thinking 3/8 would of been plenty, but we do have hills around here to deal with. I have seen some through the years on the side of the block, just behind the timing cover, side of pan and about any other area in the front you can think of, some of them I question why and what where they thinking of location?

[Mark Gregush]

My 21 had a hi-volume oiler and really not that many miles, I too noticed a some smoke at idle or moving at low speeds like in a parade. I was running the 3/8 hose from fitting to fitting. No inside scoop on the hogs head and front fitting on side of pan at the bend in front of No 1 rod. The screen on the vent was clear. I kinda got the feeling that there was just too much oil being pumped to the front, but never did anything about it. I did post on this a few years back.

[speedytinc]

My 21 had a hi-volume oiler and really not that many miles, I too noticed a some smoke at idle or moving at low speeds like in a parade. I was running the 3/8 hose from fitting to fitting. No inside scoop on the hogs head and front fitting on side of pan at the bend in front of No 1 rod. The screen on the vent was clear. I kinda got the feeling that there was just too much oil being pumped to the front, but never did anything about it. I did post on this a few years back.

When I first started running this new motor, it smoked severely. Like none before. Surprised it never fowl plugs. I was very concerned about the rings seating. They did & constant visible smoke reduced to the hi vacuum times. I have learned keeping the oil level centered or a bit lower helps. The dip stick has been handy in helping regulate the output. With the extra continuous oil consumption & an acceptable solution, Its now time to fix the problem. Ill report back when the results are clear.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I guess you could technically say I over-oil my engines. I always make sure that oil flows from the top petcock. I never even check the lower one. If when adding oil I have a 1/2 quart left as oil begins to run out of the top, I simply look the other way and dump the rest in After a long idle time, it will begin to smoke a bit. Nothing too serious, no obvious excessive oil consumption, no fouled plugs, (no harm, no foul!). I also have accessory oil lines, internal & external, but no high volume ones.

[speedytinc]

I guess you could technically say I over-oil my engines. I always make sure that oil flows from the top petcock. I never even check the lower one. If when adding oil I have a 1/2 quart left as oil begins to run out of the top, I simply look the other way and dump the rest in After a long idle time, it will begin to smoke a bit. Nothing too serious, no obvious excessive oil consumption, no fouled plugs, (no harm, no foul!). I also have accessory oil lines, internal & external, but no high volume ones.

Your motor's oil level will seek its happy place thru burning or leaking. By not pushing a lot of extra oil to the front, you wouldnt necessarily get excessive oil consumption/smoke. How well does your T mark its spot?
I am betting you get a WHOLE lot more life out of your transmission & bands being so WELL lubed. Thats a big upside.
I do wonder & inquire about your 4th main fit(must be real good) concerning, U joint grease leaks & thinning & If your rear axle needs to be bled off occasionally and your successful axle bearing sealing method. You may have every thing setup right or experience a bit of unnecessary annoyances with your high oil level. No judgement. Just what I normally see.

[TXGOAT2]

I believe Ford recommended keeping the oil level about halfway between the upper and lower cocks "for best results", and NEVER below the lower cock.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I guess you could technically say I over-oil my engines. I always make sure that oil flows from the top petcock. I never even check the lower one. If when adding oil I have a 1/2 quart left as oil begins to run out of the top, I simply look the other way and dump the rest in After a long idle time, it will begin to smoke a bit. Nothing too serious, no obvious excessive oil consumption, no fouled plugs, (no harm, no foul!). I also have accessory oil lines, internal & external, but no high volume ones.

Your motor's oil level will seek its happy place thru burning or leaking. By not pushing a lot of extra oil to the front, you wouldnt necessarily get excessive oil consumption/smoke. How well does your T mark its spot?
I am betting you get a WHOLE lot more life out of your transmission & bands being so WELL lubed. Thats a big upside.
I do wonder & inquire about your 4th main fit(must be real good) concerning, U joint grease leaks & thinning & If your rear axle needs to be bled off occasionally and your successful axle bearing sealing method. You may have every thing setup right or experience a bit of unnecessary annoyances with your high oil level. No judgement. Just what I normally see.

I don't really experience any of the downsides you mention. As for the 4th main, it hasn't been looked at since about 1975, when the engine was installed in the Touring. And yes, it does get driven. Dad usually bushed them with bronze, so I'm assuming that's what is in there. The bronze bushing in the 4th main of my Runabout had .0015 clearance after about 25K miles, so I'm guessing the Touring's 4th main is still pretty good as well.

[speedytinc]

That interesting & informative. I also make my own bronze bushing 4th mains, but I give them .002"-.0025" Have had tighter ones seize up.
Wonder if your high oil level helps that bushing from getting to hot & seizing. Sounds like you got it figured out right. Your experience is uncommon to the vast majority of T's I deal with. Thanks for the added info.

[speedytinc]

Update.
This mourning I made a trip to a real hardware store.(McMaster like) & found a couple 90 degree flair gas valves. 1, a good replacement for the Texas T front pan 3/8 flair ell. A second with a 1/2" flair ell for my "improved" set up on the 14. The 14 pan inlet is into the dipper cover in front of &1 dip. I did not butcher an original pan with a fitting hole. Oil bubbles up to fill the 3 dippers.
I believe this metering valve will be perfect for the requirements. The valve inlet hole is about 3/8" I will meter it down to 1/8-3/16". I can open wide & run looking for over oiling smoke to confirm a clear line or to clear a clog & reset the meter back to its optimal smaller setting without removing a line.