I have to jack up the rear to start it

[andy2794]

I recently purchased a 1916 Model T Touring, Here is my problem, question, I have to jack up the rear to start it or it will move when I crank it. I am told the hand brake is to be in the center position to be in neutral. It cranks much easier when the hand brake is completely forward. If I let it run for a while then I can let the jack down. Please advise.

[CudaMan]

When you store it parked, keep the hand brake lever fully forward, this will squeeze the oil out from between the clutch plates so that they don't drag as much on the next start. Pull the hand brake fully back to set the parking brake right before you start it.

I also have a good chock in front of one of the front wheels as an extra safety measure when I start my 1924.

If you are using heavy oil and your garage is unheated, you could try a lighter oil. I run 5W-30 in my 1924 year round with no issues.

[MichaelPawelek]

Be sure the linkage and cam bolt under the left pedal are adjusted properly for the best possible neutral. Switching to a different oil and jacking up a rear wheel are common sometimes in colder weather but the adjustments are critical. Also depends on whether you have the original clutch discs or one of the aftermarket set ups….

[Russ T Fender]

Make sure the low speed band is not too tight. I start all my cars with one wheel jacked up when cold as I have a bad back and that makes it much easier. Leave the hand brake lever in the neutral position when starting cold but, as mentioned above, leave the lever all the way forward when the car is parked! I run straight 30Wt oil year round so in the winter there is a tendency for the
car to creep forward before it warms up but once warmed up there is no creeping forward. Be sure to chock at least one front wheel when hand cranking, just in case.

[Alan Long]

I agree with the above comments and some Cars are have this issue really bad and others not so much.
Additional to the above I have just been down this road with a local T and wanted to confirm if the issue was
the Low Band dragging or the High Clutch. I backed the band right off and confirmed the issue was still present.
Turned out it was the Clutch but not just the plates sticking. The Brake Drum Lugs were all chewed up preventing the outer
Steel plates from sliding smoothly to disengage. If your issue doesn’t get better when the Engine Oil is Hot it may well be
more than adjustments.
Just my experiences
Happy New Year Guys
Alan in Western Australia

[TXGOAT2]

With the linkages properly adjusted, the car should be in neutral and the parking brakes set when the hand lever is pulled all the way back firmly. That's the safest way to start it, assuming the brakes are in good shape and all linkages are properly adjusted. A 10W30 oil or even a 5W20 synthetic will aid cold starting. A good 10W30 synthetic with about 10% MARVEL MYSTERY OIL added can also aid cold weather starting. Model Ts do not like thick oil, or dirty oil, and thick oil can make starting nearly impossible in cold weather and it can do serious damage to the engine if it does start. The Model T engine lubrication system will not function well after a cold start with thick or dirty oil in it. Thick oil will not repair an engine with loose bearings or worn out rings, either. A Model T engine in good condition can be run hard all day long in summer with 0W20 synthetic oil in it.

[NHUSA]

I alway Jack up a wheel when starting a Model T when it is cold.
It just makes life easier.
I put the brake handle forward (in gear) when storing and part way forward (in neutral) when starting.
Once a bit warm I pull the handle back to stop the spinning wheel before lowering the Jack.

If the motor is warm I leave the brake back and just start it.

As some have suggested - cold thick oil is your enemy - I use 10-30 or 5-20.

[Kurt in NJ]

My 17 at first cranked like stirring molasses, my thoughts were how am I going to hand crank this,the old oil I drained out was almost gear oil, I put in some used 5w30(360 miles in a Porsche- ),I took the transmission cover off and poured some on the bands, and back into the clutches ,poured some in the cylinders and let it set. Now I am confident I will be able to crank start, though I was thinking of 0W20
After I got the thin oil into the clutch the car stopped trying to chase me hand cranking