Take a Look at My Switch and Dash Light

[BLB27]

I would appreciate comments on these two items. Is the dash light reusable? Is there a way to check the ammeter? How does the back off the switch look? See any problems?

[mtntee20]

Hello Bruce,

I'll give this a shot. The back of your switch looks good. It is a "pin back" and is more desirable than the "bend tab back" as yours is easier to take apart, clean, or repair. Your ammeter looks to have a burned wire between the ammeter and switch. I can't tell if it's a big problem or not but it is a problem and needs to be replaced. Someone needs to figure out why that wire is burned.

An easy way to test your ammeter is to hook up one wire from your ammeter to the battery, then take a battery charger and hook it up to charge the battery through the ammeter. With the charger positive to the battery, and negative to/through the ammeter. This will test one side of the ammeter, then reverse the positive and negative to test the other side of the ammeter.

As for the dash light, IF you can get it apart, the wire should be soldered or crimped to the contact plate inside the socket. If soldered, unsolder the original and solder on a new wire. If crimped, cut off the original as close to the crimp as possible, and solder on a new wire. If the rest of the light is in good condition, it should work as new. Cleaning and removing any corrosion inside the socket is a must. The bulb will need to make good contact with the housing and the contact plate.

Good Luck,
Terry

[RajoRacer]

FYI - that is a reproduction switch plate as it has no Ford script under the light lever and I believe they're all keyed to a #55.

[BLB27]

Additional photos. The key is # 73, but I see that the switch is stamped 55.

Terry, I am not sure that the wire on the ammeter is burned. It might be.

Look at the photo of the back of the dash light. Could I just tape the bare wire as close to the back as possible?

[TXGOAT2]

The wire on the dash light will have to be replaced.

[mtntee20]

Hi Bruce,

I believe that wire will be a serious hazard and could ground out causing whatever you might put on it to melt and maybe catch fire. I agree with Pat, the wire needs to be replaced.

I have had one of these types of lights apart. That doesn't mean it will be the same as yours but this might give you some ideas. The bulb cover usually just pulls off since it may be a friction fit. The "on/off" lever on mine was threaded in. Be careful as it is spring-loaded. Once you have the on/off lever out, all of it should come out with the wire sliding through the hole in the bottom. Replace the wire, clean, and reassemble. You should be back in business.

Your switch looks to be in very good condition as best I can tell from the photos.

Any change in color on any wire insulation indicates a heat problem. It appears there is a dark mark on the back of the ammeter. The mark may or may not indicate a problem with the ammeter. Testing or having it tested, will tell you if your ammeter is good or not. When you work on/with any wiring on your T, keep a sharp lookout for breaks or abrasions in the insulation. I would suggest you install a fuse in one of the battery cables as a safety. There are threads about where and how on this forum.

Good Luck,
Terry

[DanTreace]

As Terry posted , easy to take apart. If the spring is rusted use a hardware store replacement. If the insulator disc is bad, source new from any single contact lamp socket. Be sure to insulate that hot wire, the lamp housing is ground.

[Tadpole]

While you have the switch apart, you may check to be sure the contact springs inside provide enough tension to keep them firm against the contacts while driving. Mine had relaxed over time and a good bump in the road would separate them and kill the motor. After pulling my springs up some the key is snug when switching between mag and battery. (My switch is the claw style, this may not be as big an issue with the pin type switch)

[J1MGOLDEN]

The good news - the ammeter is an original.

The bad news - those wires are always hot, and that voltage does not turn off with the ignition switch, like it does on a modern car.

The ammeter insulators are sometimes just cardboard and if it rots away or the nut loosens up, the terminal screw drops down, then you have a dead short to ground, and a fire!

[TRDxB2]

I agree that its an original switch - don't throw it away it can be refurbished. The flat bezel is where the value is. Most often a ammeter that has a straight needle pointing close to center and will wiggle a bit when shaken is a good one. But need to check the insulators on the posts.The nuts on the posts need to be removed carefully to you don't brake the post off the inside. The insulators are just fiber washers. Repro's are about $10 plus shipping, if available. There are clips sticking out to keep the ammeter from falling out the front. To remove you need to work one clip at a time through the front of the switch..
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I'm not 100% sure that the switch is a repro - 2 of the 3 say it is (#55 over shinny lock & no Ford Script, the third is if its Chrome(repro) or Nickle.
The switch parts look very good. The fact that you have a different number key than the lock indicates might mean that the lock was modified (there are wafers not pins inside the lock matching the risers on the key). However, if that was not done and you key works then the lock may be broken. To test that lock the switch and remove the key, now with just the tip of the key in the lock will it turn - if so the lock is no longer a lock.
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The lock can be replaced but the style of internal parts indicate you have the type that requires the metal cup to be removed and then riveted back when done. Its not very hard to do but one can easily damage the rivet holes.
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Polish it !

[Original Smith]

The switch is NOT a reproduction! The same companies that made those switches for Ford also sold them aftermarket.

[RajoRacer]

That's an interesting observation Larry - I recall Ben Martin stating something regarding the #55 key in the "aftermarket" or repro switches.