Roll Pin For Driveshaft?

[CazeaultsModelTs]

I’m throwing together a touring car with what I have laying around, would I have any issues using a roll pin in the driveshaft for the U-Joint?

[Dan McEachern]

Yes- don't use a roll pin, same for the pin in the generator gear. Put a solid pin in and pein the end over- Roll pins are hard and can shatter.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Albert,
The issue with using anything but a solid pin is the pin not staying centered if it starts to come out and its a hardened pin it will cut the drive shaft tube in two. I have seen a solid pin do this and I had to through the tube away. Are you talking about a role pin or a split pin? As I under stand a role pin is multiple wraps of steel and is not real hard. A split pin or spring pin is piece of hardened or spring steel turned into a round. that is slightly larger than the hole it is intended to go in. If a split pin breaks it will no longer stay in place and becomes a cutting tool. If you can get a stock pin ( they are $.50 each) I would do so. I put them in the lathe and center drill them all the way till there is a good taper then when I install them I can center punch them and swell the end so they will stay in place. If I need to remove them they are already have a center to drill to remove the flare. If you have a role pin that is not to hard you can swell the ends so it will stay in place. I understand trying to work with what you have to save time & money but sometime it dosn't work out in the long run. Plan for the worst & hope for the best.
Craig.

[Original Smith]

Go with what Dan says! There used to be a company that made them with a head on one side. I think that was a pretty good idea.

[CazeaultsModelTs]

Hi Albert,
The issue with using anything but a solid pin is the pin not staying centered if it starts to come out and its a hardened pin it will cut the drive shaft tube in two. I have seen a solid pin do this and I had to through the tube away. Are you talking about a role pin or a split pin? As I under stand a role pin is multiple wraps of steel and is not real hard. A split pin or spring pin is piece of hardened or spring steel turned into a round. that is slightly larger than the hole it is intended to go in. If a split pin breaks it will no longer stay in place and becomes a cutting tool. If you can get a stock pin ( they are $.50 each) I would do so. I put them in the lathe and center drill them all the way till there is a good taper then when I install them I can center punch them and swell the end so they will stay in place. If I need to remove them they are already have a center to drill to remove the flare. If you have a role pin that is not to hard you can swell the ends so it will stay in place. I understand trying to work with what you have to save time & money but sometime it dosn't work out in the long run. Plan for the worst & hope for the best.
Craig.

I would be talking about a roll pin not a split pin

[CazeaultsModelTs]

The guy I got the original car that this motor trans and rear end came out of butchered everything, a lot of real nice parts put together as sloppy as possible. The u joint was hammered on 90 degrees off center with of course no pin or grease

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Hi Albert,
The issue with using anything but a solid pin is the pin not staying centered if it starts to come out and its a hardened pin it will cut the drive shaft tube in two. I have seen a solid pin do this and I had to through the tube away. Are you talking about a role pin or a split pin? As I under stand a role pin is multiple wraps of steel and is not real hard. A split pin or spring pin is piece of hardened or spring steel turned into a round. that is slightly larger than the hole it is intended to go in. If a split pin breaks it will no longer stay in place and becomes a cutting tool. If you can get a stock pin ( they are $.50 each) I would do so. I put them in the lathe and center drill them all the way till there is a good taper then when I install them I can center punch them and swell the end so they will stay in place. If I need to remove them they are already have a center to drill to remove the flare. If you have a role pin that is not to hard you can swell the ends so it will stay in place. I understand trying to work with what you have to save time & money but sometime it dosn't work out in the long run. Plan for the worst & hope for the best.
Craig.

I would be talking about a roll pin not a split pin

Still no.

[DanTreace]

Have disassembled a few drive shafts where the original soild rivet pins fell out in two or three pieces. That of course after untold decades of use.

A hollow roll pin there wouldn’t begin to last the constant reversing torque forces of all the braking and power applied.

[TRDxB2]

Made a peen tool (bucking bar) from an old axle for brake cams, u-joint .. those awkward places to get to when assembled

[Craig Leach]

Dan that probably was a junk shaft & joint to start with. In order to maintain my hobby I have to utilize some parts that with a little care can be used with 100% reliability. With that in mind I have found T parts with split pins & grade three bolts in hand brake levers & pivots, clutch yokes & peddle shafts. U-joints are about the only place I use straight pins ( rivets ) for the most part I use tapered pins in a tapered reamed hole. stronger, more precise and easier to remove and no one will know. The pin in a U/joint should have no torsional force applied to it.
Craig.