MAGNETO CONTACT POINT

[usndds]

Hello and thank you for your help. I have a 1925 Coupe that I purchased in 1974, and completed the restoration 8 years later. No problems with the magneto until recently, when it shut down when I switched from Bat to Mag. My ignition switch is very worn. The original key was worn so thin when I got the car, that I could bend it. I was lucky enough to find what appeared to be a new key in about 2 pounds of grease and dirt that covered the starter, when I began the restoration. Today, I removed the Mag contact on top of the hogshead. A photo taken through the opening showed some yellow teflon tape that must have escaped from the oil drain plug. I used a hemostat to retrieve it, and it runs on mag again. The contact point on the coil ring appears to be pretty rough (photo No. 2). Should I be concerned that this will be a problem, or as long as there is contact being made it is OK?
I would like an opinion about replacing the switch, as when the key is in the current one it is very loose, and the switch to Mag is touchy. Anyone experienced with using the replacement switch that I see advertised in Snyder's catalog?

[jiminbartow]

It shouldn’t be a problem, but if you are worried you can grab it with a long tweezers and pull it out. Being yellow, it is possible that it is a piece of Kevlar, which if it got under the band lining, could be a problem. Best to try and get it out. Jim Patrick

[usndds]

Jim, Thanks for the prompt reply. I was able to retrieve the piece of Teflon tape. Mag now works. I was concerned about the irregular wear of the contact point, and the looseness of the ignition. Looking for comments about the available replacement switch Thanks, Bob

[speedytinc]

Jim, Thanks for the prompt reply. I was able to retrieve the piece of Teflon tape. Mag now works. I was concerned about the irregular wear of the contact point, and the looseness of the ignition. Looking for comments about the available replacement switch Thanks, Bob

Try to fix the contacts of your original swith. Usually a good cleaning & more finger tension will do it. Repop switches are junk.

[MichaelPawelek]

You can have the ignition switch repaired by Ben Martin. Call him as he doesn't do e-mail.
770-938-3376

[jiminbartow]

I recently successfully rebuilt the switch for my 1926 Coupe: www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=27719. The thing you have to be most careful of is breaking off the 4 tabs holding it together. When you bend them open, don’t bend them at the place where they attach to the housing. Bend the tabs up at the point where they bend down over the pressed fiber contact disc, leaving the tabs straight and upright where they attach to the round steel housing. Use an old razor knife blade to partially pry it he tabs up until you can grab it with needle nose pliers and bend the tabs upright. Loose and sloppy switches where the contacts can vibrate apart and lose heir contact can be firmed up by bending the contacts out enough to exert pressure between the copper convex contacts and concave contacts in the pressed contact disc. You can lubricate with a touch of Vaseline and reassemble it. Jim Patrick

[TRDxB2]

I have repaired several ignition switches. A "loose key" and a "bit touchy to mag" are slightly vague and represent two different problems. A loose key: The face of the cylinder should have a number on it and that should match the one on the key. Its possible that the lock (cylinder made of pot metal) is cracked or worn. Worn would correspond to the thin key if it was the one always used and numerous turns. It could be cracked because of being "touchy to mag" were some additional force was applied to keep it in position.
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To understand the issue better pictures of the front and back would help be cause there were several manufactures and we can't assume which one you have. The two most common ones will have two rivets at the 3 & 9 o'clock position on the front face and the back disk may be either a clip type or pin type. One other question is how does the handle for the lighting work. tight or loose?
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There had been some issues mention about the reproduction switches mentioned in the past. That doesn't mean the current ones have the same issues.
Depending on switch you have: The fiber disk ion the back can be replaced easily (pin or clip type) and your are most likely have a common one. Some switch designs require the rivets to be removed in order to replace the lock. This can be identified by the way the handle is secured. The one that does has a flange tucked under the switch plate to keep it in place, the other type has tabs that are bent over on the bottom of the steel cup holding the switch parts. Removal of either needs a bit of skill. Drilling out the rivets may cause them to spin making the hold larger (tool required to put new ones back in), the tab ones need to be pried open and picked closed when done...

[mbowen]

Use a copper crush washer on the oil drain plug. Teflon tape almost never stays put in that application.

[Scott_Conger]

I agree with Miles Bowen re: crush washer

that said, since I have discovered these: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produ ... oduct=3245

I use them exclusively. They never seem to wear out or lose their effectivity and are all but perfect seals. I use them on the drain plug, transmission cover, and bottom inspection cover.

they are WONDERFUL

wish I'd discovered them 40 years ago...