no neutral

[MCobb]

I bought a 1915/16 roadster last winter and am still learning to drive it. The engine 1s from 1922 with electric start. It has a Ruckstell that I have kept in underdrive so far. The car is VERY hard to push in neutral, it takes two men to push it on level ground. Am I wrong in thinking the car should be easy to push with the handbrake halfway on? The rear brakes are not dragging. I jacked up a rear wheel and hand-cranked the engine (handbrake halfway down), the rear wheel turns at low gear speed, so the low band (not the clutch) is dragging. The car seems to drive OK, surprisingly it does not creep much with the engine running and the handbrake halfway on. But I fear I'm burning up the low band.
I removed the floorboards and transmission cover. The bands are fabric (cotton or Kevlar?). I loosened the low band 1/2 turn and the car is now slightly easier to push in neutral, but still very hard. Now the pedal goes to within 1/2 inch of the floorboard (it was 1-1/2 inches away). I get a little "chatter" going into high gear, but otherwise it seems fine. Is the trouble in the adjustment of the linkage between the low pedal and the handbrake cam?

[John kuehn]

Even if a T has a good free neutral it’s not real easy to push. If your car has been running and driving a while when you come to a stop on level ground it shouldn’t have any creep when it’s hot.
It might creep when it’s cold a little and if car your does pull the the hand brake all the way and then try to start it. You can try using a lighter weight oil in it. Maybe your oil is a heavier grade.

When my cars haven’t been run in a good while I place a 2x4 across the front tires and then start it since the it’s a little easier to start with the handbrake in straight up position.

Be aware that when you step out of your car with the engine running and you have the handbrake in straight position it can jump out of neutral and take off. It shouldn’t do that but it has happened if the handbrake pawl is worn!

[RajoRacer]

If you're "in" Ruckstell, it will be hard to push - shift it into direct & try it again.

[speedytinc]

A stock clutch can be & usually acts the way you describe. It helps to leave the parking brake lever down when put away. This minimizes the disks oil locking.

If you have to ask if the linkage needs adjusting, it needs adjusting/checking. Get your T1 service manual out & check it. First step in any kind of problem in this area.

Kevlar bands are yellow or pinkish. Cotton is white. Scandia is brown.
Get your low band properly adjusted. I gather your setting point now is a wild guess.

Back off on the low adjustment. Run your motor @ low speed.Tighten the adjuster untill you just start to hear the tripple gears change sounds of nothing to a grumbling noise. Back off the adjustment 1/2 turn. Your low is now perfectly & optimally adjusted. This is most important/critical with kevlar. Never adjust a little bit more.

Look @ the pedal travel. How far forward(lost movement) before the cam engages?(pedal starts moving inwards).
If there is excessive lost motion before the cam engages, the internal cam may be excessively worn.
If there is excessive pedal travel down before a solid lockup, the Band is badly out of round or there is a high spot loop in the lining. The pedal 1/2" from the floor is ok if you have a solid lockup @ this point & the pedal goes no further. If this is where things set with kevlar, there is no other option in adjusting it out. Bending the pedal back is an option.
If working with kevlar, the band must be perfectly round with no high spots. The Hogs head must be removed to install.
Lesser linings are forgiving & can be installed thru the inspection cover.

The chatter is your clutch slipping. That can be adjusted via the 3 fingers. Deal with this last. Henry's design is for a controlled slippage going from low to high. Thats a stock clutch. If running an "improved/updated" clutch, there must be no slippage.

Your T should be geared so that your use of rux(underdrive) is @ a minimum. Ruckstells dont lube well & wear. Use it to a minimum.

[MichaelPawelek]

Be sure the adjustable Bolt on the mechanism under the hand brake is adjusted properly and is separating the clutch plates properly. The end of the bolt over time wears from friction on the ramp and becomes shorter and may need adjusting. Many store their T’s with the brake handle forward to “squish” the oil from between the clutch plates for easier starting. Even when adjusted properly I have never owned a Model T that was real easy to hand push when the oil was cold.

[John kuehn]

And if you have a Touring don’t put your hands in the middle of the back section and try to push it even in a free neutral! I guarantee you you WONT be glad that you did!!

They don’t push that easy!!

[J1MGOLDEN]

If the Low Band is over tightened, you can get a "Lost Neutral" configuration where this is no place between a full brake and all the way forward that your engine will not be in either Low or High.

If the Front Brake Rod connection is not properly adjusted, you can be putting the rear brakes on again when you push the lever forward.

[MCobb]

I found a procedure in Fahenstock's book basically calling for 1/16" free play in the link between the pedal and the high gear lever. I'll try that, and put the rear axle into "Ford" direct drive instead of Ruckstell.
Thanks to all who responded

Neutral adjustment Model T.pdf

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