Front Wheel bearings

[FundyTides]

I was at a swap meet yesterday and picked up 1/2 dozen NOS (Timken) outer wheel bearings and cups. Unfortunately, they are all for one side. I only opened 2 for a quick inspection and they have obviously not been stored in a climate controlled environment as there is minor rust on a few of the rollers. What is the best way to remove the rust without doing any damage to the rollers? Thanks in advance for any ideas?

[Steve Jelf]

Evaporust will remove it and do no damage.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I would just use a wire wheel, (not a very aggressive one though). The rollers are extremely hard. A wire wheel won't hurt them. I have never used Evaporust. I'd wonder if it might etch them??

[speedytinc]

I would just use a wire wheel, (not a very aggressive one though). The rollers are extremely hard. A wire wheel won't hurt them. I have never used Evaporust. I'd wonder if it might etch them??

This is how I have done it.
Once cleaned you can access if the rust is light surface or if the rollers are pitted.
A little pitting wont take away from their function, but kills their resale value.

[Dan McEachern]

Wire wheel and a little light oil. Wash in solvent after and reoil.

[John kuehn]

I’ve saved good used wheel bearing over time and have a string of them on a wire in a can. When I need one I get one and wire brush it on the grinder, and oil it up then put it to use.

[Scott_Conger]

The wire wheel process is pretty much universally accepted. However, don't discount what Steve Jelf said...Evaporust and similar derusting agents work through Chelation and there is absolutely no acid, or etching of the substrate. It is amazing stuff...my preference has been the Rustoleum product as it seems to cause less flash-rust on cleaned parts than Evaporust does. This, of course, would not be an issue with a bearing which was going to be immediately oiled, but can sometimes be a problem on sheet metal in humid climates (speaking from experience when in FL).

These products are absolutely amazing and if you've never played with them, particularly on small or delicate parts, you're doing yourself a disservice.

[Steve Jelf]

I should have mentioned that before you use a chemical stripper it's best to remove all traces of oil. I use lacquer thinner.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

The wire wheel process is pretty much universally accepted. However, don't discount what Steve Jelf said...Evaporust and similar derusting agents work through Chelation and there is absolutely no acid, or etching of the substrate. It is amazing stuff...my preference has been the Rustoleum product as it seems to cause less flash-rust on cleaned parts than Evaporust does. This, of course, would not be an issue with a bearing which was going to be immediately oiled, but can sometimes be a problem on sheet metal in humid climates (speaking from experience when in FL).

These products are absolutely amazing and if you've never played with them, particularly on small or delicate parts, you're doing yourself a disservice.

Interesting. With that explained, I like the idea that the Evaporust will get to the inner race, where a wire wheel can't go.

[Scott_Conger]

Jerry

I mentioned Rustoleum product, but I just looked at my jar for "small stuff" and see that I marked it "Metal Rescue", so now I cannot be sure about my "Rustoleum" comment. In any event, these things work remarkably well and seem to not do anything to surface finish (if anything, they are nice and shiny when done). With Cast Iron, there is a black smut left on the surface which swishes off, so there may be some microscopic leeching of graphite out of the surface or there is a microscopic loss of iron...in any event, after the "swish" things are super clean and I've never detected pitting on either steel or Cast Iron). I'd of course, experiment with a part that didn't matter, to gauge your happiness with the results. I for one am impressed and am not one that often deviates from tried/true processes or products (FWIW).

[Allan]

I just had to scrounge up an outer front wheel bearing to replace one out of stock at Langs. I had a new one, still in the box. It was a good thing I found it, as the cardboard box had attracted some damp, and there was just a touch of rust on the outside end of the thread. The new bearings come wrapped in rust preventative paper/plastic but they still require dry storage, rather than a running board tool box.
As I find them, I use Steve's lacquer thinners trick to cut through any old grease. They are wire wheel buffed to remove residue and dipped again. After drying them off I grease them as though they were to be installed, and keep them in clear plastic jars in the shelves. I have two grades of used ones. Excellent ones and good users! I just recently gave a set to a horse jinker owner that I would never use in a car, but he thought he was Christmas.

Allan from down under.

[FundyTides]

"horse jinker owner" Translation please . Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I will unwrap them all and see if they all have minimal rust and go from there. Seems hard to find Evapo-Rust around here. I might have to wait until my next rip to the US.

[Allan]

Lots of two wheel horse carts here were converted to car wheels and tyres to replace larger wooden spoked buggy wheels with solid steel/rubber tyres. Often a car front axle was used too, thus lowering the cart, and considerably modifying the view of the reinsman! Call it a jinker, sulky, whatever, I like them, especially when I find a pair of Hayes wire wheels on them. They also mean worn out T tyres can find a second life on such a slow moving vehicle.

The Hayes wire wheel find was a result of a toilet stop for my wife when on a T tour. That sulky was just over the back fence of a nearby house. I was able to trade a pair of more correct looking wooden spoked wheels for them. I Have never quibbled about a toilet stop since.

Allan from down under.