Installing the Front Spring

[BLB27]

I have installed the front spring on my 1927 coupe as shown in the attached photos.

The second photo shows the 1/8 " rubber pad on the spring. The third photo shows the bolt head in the hole in cross member. It does not completely penetrant the hole, but I assume there is sufficient penetration . The fourth and fifth are of the bottom connection.

After installation, I realized the recessed "square" nut will not allow me to retighten the bolt if needed after putting some miles on the coupe. Should I replace the nut with one that will allow tightening with a socket? I suppose a square nut was provide because that was the original.

The fifth shows that the holes for the cotter keys are above the nut.

[A Whiteman]

I would change the nut, a period castle nut would also be, well, 'period correct'

[pron022020]

Get it tight now, stake it, and don't worry about it. There is so much tension that the spring is essentially a giant lockwasher.
BTW- you could tighten it afterward with square sockets.

[Allan]

You just need an 8 point socket.

Allan from down under.

[mtntee20]

A person might install a washer under each castle nut to ensure the cotter pins engage properly.

Your rebuild looks good.

Good Luck

[TXGOAT2]

I would use washers under the castle nuts. Common washers may not fit flat. Use washers that will lay flat on the surface the nut seats on. I would not use grade 8 washers there.

[John.Zibell]

Many of the supplies provide a center bolt where the head is not high enough. I use the ones from T springs which are nice and tall.

[RajoRacer]

If you used an original style spring pad, the bolt head would engage the frame hole more. The spring bolt should already have been tightened prior to placement in the frame and the front engine/spring mount is a great place for lock washers.

[John Codman]

You just need an 8 point socket.

Allan from down under.

A 12-point socket will work as well.

[BLB27]

Thanks for the comments. My responses:

Adrian, Aren't the nuts castle nuts?

Tyler, I did not know there are sockets for square nuts. I will look for them at local hardware stores. The reason I want be able to retighten is that T-Springs literature states "Extreme care must be taken NOT to paint the contact surfaces where the leaves lay on top of each other. The reason for this is that any build up of paint between the leaf springs will eventually pulverize over time and the leaves and center bolt can end up loose and potential failure may occur."

I painted each individual leaf and lubricated them with Slip-Plate, so I suppose I should have the ability to retighten the center bolt and the connection bolts.

John, I tried a 12 point socket, and it slipped.

[Mark Gregush]

The center bolt is there to keep the spring leaves in alignment as much as anything. The mounting clamp keeps things tight. Once the spring is assembled, the nut staked, you shouldn't need to do anything more with it. There should not be enough movement at the point where the bolt goes through to worry. It would be hard to re-stake it later if it did get loose. If you are worried, I would use a regular hex nut, not a slotted or castle nut. But be sure to stake or peen the end of the bolt, that is what keep the nut from backing off, same as when you install hub bolts and nuts.

[Allan]

8 point sockets are made for use on square nuts. Over the years I have built up a set of 1/2" drive ones of various brands. The prized one is the Snap-on one which fits the square heads on the main bearing bolts. They do come in handy when building wooden bodies/trays using the correct old time hardware.

When I was searching for a couple to complete my "set", there were some new ones available on line, but i only needed two different sizes.

Allan from down under.

[BLB27]

I assume many Model T spring leafs have been entirely painted. Have there been documented cases where this has resulted in loose bolts and leafs ? If so, has this resulted in spring failures?

[pron022020]

I assume many Model T spring leafs have been entirely painted. Have there been documented cases where this has resulted in loose bolts and leafs ? If so, has this resulted in spring failures?

I have yet to hear of one on any T's or A's. A lot of it is common sense - A thin coat of epoxy and then slip plate wont hurt. But if you go to town with the paint thickness then yeah it might be an issue.

[jiminbartow]

I suppose if you painted a 1/64” thick coat with primer and finish on both sides of each leaf, it would result in a 1/32” combined thickness between each leaf resulting in an overall combined thickness of 7/32” (1/32” short of 1/4”), I can conceive that, if overtime, the paint failed or wore down between all the leafs, it could result in loose leafs, but that will take a very long time and can be remedied by occassionally tightening the center spring bolt. Jim Patrick

[John Codman]

Thanks for the comments. My responses:

Adrian, Aren't the nuts castle nuts?

Tyler, I did not know there are sockets for square nuts. I will look for them at local hardware stores. The reason I want be able to retighten is that T-Springs literature states "Extreme care must be taken NOT to paint the contact surfaces where the leaves lay on top of each other. The reason for this is that any build up of paint between the leaf springs will eventually pulverize over time and the leaves and center bolt can end up loose and potential failure may occur."

I painted each individual leaf and lubricated them with Slip-Plate, so I suppose I should have the ability to retighten the center bolt and the connection bolts.

John, I tried a 12 point socket, and it slipped.

Then either the socket or the nut is worn. I have never used anything but a 12-point socket on a square nut.