unknown tool, possble valve carbon remover/cutter ?

[Heck914]

I was given this old tool by a co-worker. Dad and I looked it over, and were thinking maybe it was to decarbon a valve by hand. By its construction, i would say 20's-30's It has a hand crank, an adjustable cutter, and some weird spring thing that i have no idea about. No company markings. Any of you guys something like this ?

[TrentB]

I think this is a valve refacer for cast iron head valves.

Respectfully Submitted,

Trent Boggess

[2nighthawks]

Trent nailed it! That is exactly what the device is,,,,,I have one that is much simpler but works very well to reface automotive poppet type valves. Mine has a carbide cutter that does a very good job of refacing even "modern" valves. Use of these devices is very slow and tedious work, but can and does do a very good job if used carefully,.....harold

[Rich Eagle]

I have one that works like that too. It works well and I have done dozens of old valves on it. I'm not sure if it would work as well on harder valves.
Rich

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I've seen many of those, but that by far, is the nicest one yet. It's set-up like a mini lathe, with a cross feed cutter. Most just had a straight cutting face, pre-set at 45 degrees that cut the entire seat face at once.

[J1MGOLDEN]

It was made by the Sioux Company.

The handle goes on the end of the valve to turn it a complete circle, while the small round tool is slowly cranked and turned in across the surface that closes the valve on the block.

The angle can be changed for different type valves but is usually about 45 degrees to the valve head.

The valve surface is cut with the contact area going down, as the handle turns the valve clockwise.

[J1MGOLDEN]

The tool can be used for another purpose, as I have frequently used mine for at least 30 years and it still works fine.

New valves often have to be shortened slightly, sometimes only a few thousands, if they are installed with stock lifters.

The threaded rod at the center of the valve head has 32 threads per inch.

One complete turn of that knurled handle will move the valve about .03 inch.

So, first you have to measure the lifter to valve end space.

Then insert the valve in the device and turn the knob on the end until i makes sparks showing contact with the spinning grindstone.

Then a slow complete turn of that knob will remove .03 inches of the valve stem and leave the stem completely flat.

The tool has to be set at the right height and in line with the grindstone to have the valve center even with the grinder shaft center.

[J1MGOLDEN]

Two more items were left out.

The valve head has to be turned completely around after the valve stem is set against the grindstone.

Those two shiny straps cannot be so tight the valve cannot be turned by hand.

[Heck914]

Excellent information! thank you, Not sure if I'll ever use it but you never know.

[TSMock]

The other piece shown in the last photo is not part of the tool. It would belong to an old clock that strikes the hour and in some clocks also the half hour. It would be mounted in the clock case so that the case acts as a sound board and the hammer on the clock works would hit the flat part of the spring. The hammer usually has a "soft face".

[Duey_C]

That little beauty would be fun to play with. And an Albertson/Sioux. Glad to be able to see this Mark!
I'm of the opinion with this, we would turn the valve anti-clockwise instead to help keep the cutting edge keen.
We shouldn't turn a drill or reamer in reverse against the edge... That may be splitting hairs tho.
Is the cutting "wheel" allowed to turn or held fast? Can't use it upside-down or it may not work, or would it?
Aww shoot, a stem grinder too. Awfully neat.
Perhaps I should've kept my fingers still.

[J1MGOLDEN]

Tom, I'm a 50 + year member of the NAWCC and repair Model Ts for six months and old clocks for six months.

Sometimes the parts get mixed up.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Mark,
I have two of that style valve cutter, slow & easy is the rule. ( none of mine are that nice ) On of mine is for small engines.
James,
Can that set up be turned 90* to use the side of the stone?
Craig.

[J1MGOLDEN]

Craig, you are often cautioned not to grind on the side of those stones.

The sideways pressure can easily break the stone apart and the flying pieces often cause a serious injury to the operator.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Craig, you are often cautioned not to grind on the side of those stones.

The sideways pressure can easily break the stone apart and the flying pieces often cause a serious injury to the operator.

I don't believe the slight pressure needed to grind the valve stem would be a problem. However, the side of a wheel is usually not dressed as well as the face of the wheel and may have a bit of runout.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Guys,
Yes we are cautioned using the side of kind of grinding wheel because they are not designed for that type of load. So don't apply to
much pressure (which would create more heat than wanted anyway ) Grinding on the circumference of a wheel will produce a concave
or convex surface depending on being above or below the center line of the wheel neither of which will wear well. Using a coarse wheel
will not give a good wearing surface either. For those of us that do most all of our own work improvising can end up costing more than
we save. A unsquared valve stem can create more work in the long run. I try to find a friend or shop that has the valve grinding machine
to do the job correctly. I like to do the best I can to get zero clearance then have a automotive machine shop grind them for proper
clearance.
Craig.

[J1MGOLDEN]

The actual contact area across the grindstone is flat.

The fins stone is always on that side for some reason.

That is why you have to turn the valve by hand as you will have a totally flat surface on the valve.

[TrentB]

The old Sioux 645 series of valve grinders had attachments on the right hand side of the grinder for valve stems and push rods. The stones for the right side were much thicker than the valve facing stone on the left side.

These grinders also had a provision for a diamond to face the right hand stone to make its surface perpendicular to the rotating axis of the stone. This addressed the uneven surface point that Jerry Van raised earlier in this thread.

Respectfully Submitted,

Trent Boggess