Locations for Jacking on a Model T

[BLB27]

I will soon be putting the body back on the frame of my 1927 Coupe. I will be putting casters under the wheels to help in positioning the frame under the body.

Where is the best locations to place the jacks to get wheels onto the casters?

I think it is going to be difficult to get the frame positioned to insert the body bolts. Any suggestions?

[BLB27]

Photos were taken before the engine was installed.

[Been Here Before]

Ah.....this is a dumb question to answer your question. Why place casters under the wheels when you have a rolling chassis/frame?

[RajoRacer]

Waaay more maneuverable on skates !

[Allan]

I have had 5 mounting parties over the years. All you need is four able friends to lift the body and walk it over the frame. No jacks, no dollies. The crew can move adjust the body position as you insert the bolts through the frame brackets. Two members have been present for each event. I got in real strife when I slid the body of my shooting brake from the bench I built it on along two bearers and dropped it on the frame without their help. They were miffed at missing out on the obligatory beer or two after the event.

Your coupe body is about as light and easily managed as any model T.

Allan from down under.

[George House]

Jack in the middle of the front axle to position casters under both front wheels but jack on both axle housings to individually place your casters under each rear wheels. . But I’m with Allan. More fun with friends lifting...

[Rich Eagle]

They tell me the jacks are best placed as close to the wheels as possible. Some think there is danger of bending the rear axles.
I've never had a problem I know of by not but....
Rich

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

They tell me the jacks are best placed as close to the wheels as possible. Some think there is danger of bending the rear axles.
I've never had a problem I know of by not but....
Rich

Rich,

I've never had a problem either. For jacking up a bare chassis with no body, you could place the jack just about anywhere. Not enough weight involved to hurt a thing.

[John kuehn]

I lowered my 24 Coupe body by myself. I put the body up on saw horses then rolled and positioned the chassis under it. I didn’t think about using the wheel dollies until after! But rolling the chassis under the body worked OK.

[Mark Gregush]

On the early style before 1915, no not good idea to jack from center at rearend. I have never had any issues with center jacking the rearend on 15 up style.
Only thing I would suggest is putting a pad between the jack and axle, front or rear.

[Norman Kling]

When I had my body off, I made two sets of stands out of 2x4's . They had three leg stands and a cut out to fit one 2x4 across. It just sat there without being fastened in. They were high enough and spaced far enough apart that the chassis could be rolled under with the body on top. In fact I could even put the chassis under with the engine in place by turning the body around opposite the picture and push the chassis in from the front. If you put one rear wheel on loosely without the key it will push easily then when you are ready to drive, you put in the key and torque the hub.
I could paint the body in this position and even crawl under and paint the under side of the body this way. When you are ready to lower to the chassis, you merely lift it up enough to remove the cross 2x4 and set the body down on the chassis.
Norm

[speedytinc]

On the early style before 1915, no not good idea to jack from center at rearend. I have never had any issues with center jacking the rearend on 15 up style.
Only thing I would suggest is putting a pad between the jack and axle, front or rear.

Not lifting the center of a rear end on a bodied car applies to all years.
" Do you feel luckey? well do ya ...."

[Steve Jelf]

Both front and rear, I place the jack as near the wheel as it will go without interfering with jack stands or dollies. Maybe I'm being too cautious. So what?

[Mark Gregush]

On the early style before 1915, no not good idea to jack from center at rearend. I have never had any issues with center jacking the rearend on 15 up style.
Only thing I would suggest is putting a pad between the jack and axle, front or rear.

Not lifting the center of a rear end on a bodied car applies to all years.
" Do you feel luckey? well do ya ...."

Yes I do feel lucky!

[KeithG]

Sorry, I posted to the wrong thread.

[5 WoodenWheels]

Warning: This is NOT intended to be helpful.

FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY

When I ask a question like the one posed in this thread, this is what I hear, approximately—both in online forums and amongst Model T owners I talk to.

“Jack the car up anywhere. I lift mine from the oil drain plug. Nicely balanced.”

“Don’t lift in the center of the axle. Unless the car was built in March and on a Tuesday. Then you have to consult the booklet: “Tuesday cars in March.” It’s 38 pages and only costs $85.00 but you get a free sticker. Refer to paragraph two on page thirty-seven, but you’ll need to read the previous thirty-six pages to understand that one paragraph.

“Use an overhead hoist with four independently-controlled motors at all four corners of the frame. Lift the frame at a rate of no more than a half-inch per hour. Going faster risks breaking spring shackles and snapping spokes. It could also damage the front end alignment and not many shops are willing to adjust toe-in on Model Ts these days. I heard Mr. Tire will but they charge extra.”

“Don’t use the wheel dollies from Harbor Freight. Too slippery. My neighbor opened his garage door and the car shot out like it was roller skating on ice. Hit his cousin’s mailbox and startled his favorite heifer Beatrice. She’s since passed away. He has a dog now.”

“The best wheel dollies have a lot of rust and corrosion and barely move. They are much safer. No chance of the car getting away.”

“For lifting the car body, you will need to construct a jig from 4X4s, 3/4” carriage bolts, grade 120 alloy steel chain, and some architectural crown molding for decoration. Buy the book, “SO You Want to Lift your Model T?” Again, 38 pages and normally $175 but there is a sale and you can find it for $85 but you don’t get the free sticker at that price.

(Slow Saturday night here. I’ve actually gotten a lot of help and very useful information on this forum. I’ll stop now before I get into too much Trouble)

[speedytinc]

WOW. Somebody didnt get their nap today.

[TXGOAT2]

For lifting a car for service, Ford service material mentions using lifting irons. I've never seen a lifting iron or seen any drawings or descriptions of how to make them.

[RajoRacer]

Several tool companies made them - I believe there is a plan for building one in Murray Fahnstock's (sp.) book.

[Dan Haynes]

30 or 40 years ago, probably in The Vintage Ford, there was a series of photos of assembly at Ford branches. Featured were knocked down chassis and bodies and factory-authorized methods of moving them. The chassis had no wheels and were moved using a purpose-built hand truck/wheelbarrow thing with a saddle that cupped the flywheel housing around the drain plug. Two guys (huge ones) would lift the chassis from the back while the hand truck was steered under the crankcase by a third guy. Then the photos showed the one guy comfortably wheeling the chassis away.