Improve your car, go stock.
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Topic author - Posts: 214
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:17 pm
- First Name: Terry
- Last Name: Horlick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Roadster Pickup "Mountain Patrol vehicle" from Los Angeles City Fire Department and a 1912 Model T omnibus restoration project
- Location: Penn Valley, CA
- Board Member Since: 1999
Improve your car, go stock.
Over the years I have noticed a trend happening in my garage. 30 years ago my T's always seemed to get mild tweaks for better performance. I have been through a series of "upgrades", played with them, and eventually removed them.
I am referring to stuff like Stromberg carburetors, high compression heads, lined brakes, Kevlar bands, Ruckstell rear, Bonar brakes, Rocky Mtn. brakes, stock brakes, hot cams, driver cams, stock cams, extra dams, rod scoops, on and on.
I am seeing a gradual removal of most modifications, except a few. If it works and makes the car more reliable it stays, if not it eventually goes. That includes getting rid of electric over drive, Muncie mechanical over-under, etc. Yesterday I picked up a beautifully rebuilt Ruckstell from Erik Barrett set up for my Omnibus... last time with a Ruckstell was back in the 1990's on "Toady", my '13 mountain wagon. Ruckstell, ten tooth, large drum... not done playing yet, but am getting there.
What I am writing about is my switch on Rusty (1927 L.A.F.D. Mountain Patrol car commercial roadster pickup) from the Z head. Since the '90's all of my T's have had Z heads, aluminum pistons and conservative cams. Z because everyone seemed to recommend that Z provided a needed HP boost. Over the last 30 years I have had a never ending experience of blown head gaskets... always between cylinder 1 and 2. This always seemed to be from heads warping. I have had multiple block decking and head shaving experiences to make everything flat. Always properly adjusting head bolts with washers as needed and going with new head gaskets. With head gaskets now costing more than solid billet gold crush gaskets and requiring at least a year wait for replacements a change was needed.
Last month I got Rusty back together with the Z after decking it and having to hog out the chamber to clear piston strikes, I went with a used but good old gasket. Still had a small coolant leak so for the first time in 30 years I have pulled off my good old Z and grabbed a stock nondescript high head off the junk pile. .... Result? The first thing to notice is the lower compression... man is it ever easy to pull over by hand. Hmm, does this mean that the electric starter is now in play? No... the starter turns it farther than before, but no go on starting. Well, my usual starting procedure is to choke and pull it through 3, or 4, times. Hit the ignition and go to the hand crank. What I am noticing is more than half the time the car does a free start (instead of almost never). The next thing is an almost unnoticeable decrease in power, very smooth and quiet running... just more reliable and fun. I am guessing that the gaskets will last much longer with the high head and the resulting lower compression, very important with gaskets starting at $50 each (up a bit from $10 back in the '90's). Often there is a wait of 6-12 months to get a gasket so the old reliable high heads are looking pretty good. I am also considering the fact that there is more water in a high head, than any of the alternatives I know, this change back to stock seems to be a no brainer... appropriate to my vacant cranium!
So when the rain stops falling here (formerly sunny California), in a week or so, I will be pulling the engine from the Omnibus and checking everything...especially that nice looking high head it already has on it's 1925 engine!
Respectfully submitted, TH
I am referring to stuff like Stromberg carburetors, high compression heads, lined brakes, Kevlar bands, Ruckstell rear, Bonar brakes, Rocky Mtn. brakes, stock brakes, hot cams, driver cams, stock cams, extra dams, rod scoops, on and on.
I am seeing a gradual removal of most modifications, except a few. If it works and makes the car more reliable it stays, if not it eventually goes. That includes getting rid of electric over drive, Muncie mechanical over-under, etc. Yesterday I picked up a beautifully rebuilt Ruckstell from Erik Barrett set up for my Omnibus... last time with a Ruckstell was back in the 1990's on "Toady", my '13 mountain wagon. Ruckstell, ten tooth, large drum... not done playing yet, but am getting there.
What I am writing about is my switch on Rusty (1927 L.A.F.D. Mountain Patrol car commercial roadster pickup) from the Z head. Since the '90's all of my T's have had Z heads, aluminum pistons and conservative cams. Z because everyone seemed to recommend that Z provided a needed HP boost. Over the last 30 years I have had a never ending experience of blown head gaskets... always between cylinder 1 and 2. This always seemed to be from heads warping. I have had multiple block decking and head shaving experiences to make everything flat. Always properly adjusting head bolts with washers as needed and going with new head gaskets. With head gaskets now costing more than solid billet gold crush gaskets and requiring at least a year wait for replacements a change was needed.
Last month I got Rusty back together with the Z after decking it and having to hog out the chamber to clear piston strikes, I went with a used but good old gasket. Still had a small coolant leak so for the first time in 30 years I have pulled off my good old Z and grabbed a stock nondescript high head off the junk pile. .... Result? The first thing to notice is the lower compression... man is it ever easy to pull over by hand. Hmm, does this mean that the electric starter is now in play? No... the starter turns it farther than before, but no go on starting. Well, my usual starting procedure is to choke and pull it through 3, or 4, times. Hit the ignition and go to the hand crank. What I am noticing is more than half the time the car does a free start (instead of almost never). The next thing is an almost unnoticeable decrease in power, very smooth and quiet running... just more reliable and fun. I am guessing that the gaskets will last much longer with the high head and the resulting lower compression, very important with gaskets starting at $50 each (up a bit from $10 back in the '90's). Often there is a wait of 6-12 months to get a gasket so the old reliable high heads are looking pretty good. I am also considering the fact that there is more water in a high head, than any of the alternatives I know, this change back to stock seems to be a no brainer... appropriate to my vacant cranium!
So when the rain stops falling here (formerly sunny California), in a week or so, I will be pulling the engine from the Omnibus and checking everything...especially that nice looking high head it already has on it's 1925 engine!
Respectfully submitted, TH
Terry Horlick, Penn Valley, CA
1927 Mountain Patrol Vehicle from the Los Angeles City Fire Department (L.A.F.D.)
1912 Model T Ford English Station Omnibus
1927 Mountain Patrol Vehicle from the Los Angeles City Fire Department (L.A.F.D.)
1912 Model T Ford English Station Omnibus
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- Posts: 1125
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 3:36 pm
- First Name: Adrian
- Last Name: Whiteman
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 TT, 1923 Colonial Roadster, 1924 'Bullnose' Morris, 1925 'Bullnose' Morris, 1936 JD AR
- Location: South Island, New Zealand
Re: Improve your car, go stock.
'Two Thumbs Up"
Cheers
Adrian
Cheers
Adrian
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- Posts: 7391
- Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:08 pm
- First Name: Pat
- Last Name: McNallen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926-7 roadster
- Location: Graham, Texas
- Board Member Since: 2021
Re: Improve your car, go stock.
Compression with a Z head is still very low. Unless you are getting detonation, the change in compression and any modest power increase realized is unlikely to cause head gaskets to fail.
Under most normal operating conditions, there is no power increase anyway. I prefer a cast iron head on a cast iron engine not designed to run an aluminum head.
However, many people seem to get good results running aluminum heads on T engines, including engines with a suite of modifications resulting in substantial power increases.
Under most normal operating conditions, there is no power increase anyway. I prefer a cast iron head on a cast iron engine not designed to run an aluminum head.
However, many people seem to get good results running aluminum heads on T engines, including engines with a suite of modifications resulting in substantial power increases.
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- Posts: 140
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:11 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Straw
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 and lots of parts
- Location: Penn Valley, CA
Re: Improve your car, go stock.
Terry- I'll come over after church today and get that bad ole Z head out of your way! !;30 ok?
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- Posts: 3699
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 10:43 am
- First Name: Larry
- Last Name: Smith
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 13 Touring, 13 Roadster, 17 Coupelet, 25 Roadster P/U
- Location: Lomita, California
- MTFCA Life Member: YES
Re: Improve your car, go stock.
It is refreshing to see this kind of an article. Who knew more? Modern so called experts, or Henry Ford?
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- Posts: 799
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 11:04 pm
- First Name: Bob
- Last Name: Middleton
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 18 roadster 1810 brand X
- Location: Western nv
Re: Improve your car, go stock.
TH
most my 45Ts I've owned where pretty much stock
Coils clutch carb ECT.
ONLY mods are mostly long standing time proven safety upgrades
By the way I might have room for one of those Z heads
Nvbob
most my 45Ts I've owned where pretty much stock
Coils clutch carb ECT.
ONLY mods are mostly long standing time proven safety upgrades
By the way I might have room for one of those Z heads
Nvbob
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- Posts: 7391
- Joined: Sun Feb 14, 2021 10:08 pm
- First Name: Pat
- Last Name: McNallen
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926-7 roadster
- Location: Graham, Texas
- Board Member Since: 2021
Re: Improve your car, go stock.
Henry Ford had no bias against aluminum heads. Marmon built some fantastic cars, and they were aluminum ga-ga.
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- Posts: 1357
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:47 pm
- First Name: Les
- Last Name: Schubert
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 27 roadster 13 touring
- Location: Calgary
Re: Improve your car, go stock.
I really like a counter weighted crank and an air cleaner!!
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- Posts: 1447
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:42 pm
- First Name: Frank
- Last Name: van Ekeren
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 touring, 1916 pick-up, 1924 coupe, 1926 touring, 1927 touring
- Location: Rosedale Vic Australia
Re: Improve your car, go stock.
Mmmm! stock head! wait until you get to a steep hill. 
