Carbon cleaning and valve spring compressor question

[Boaski]

Last week I pulled the head off of my T to clean out the carbon deposits and take a look at the head gasket. It definitely needed cleaning! Once I cleaned the pistons I found .030" marks on the tops all 4. As I cleaned the top of the block I found a "3" stamped between the #3 and #4 cylinder valves. Could this be a corresponding mark on the block indicating that it had been bored .030" over?

Since I'm this far in I think I'll go ahead and pull the valves and check them over well. What is a good valve spring compressor to use on a T?

[RajoRacer]

Most likely an inspector or shift stamp.

[Dave Young]

I like this one the most. It leaves both hand free to fiddle with the keeper pins.[image]

[/image]

[Norman Kling]

Your valves look very good. I wouldn't pull them unless the seats and under side of the valve heads look burnt. Just check the clearances to be sure they seating all the way should be around 12tho thousandths between the tappet and valve stem with adjustable lifters.
You should pull the spark plugs before cleaning the head and then clean them up and check the gap. 25 thousandths is a good clearance for the plugs.
I don't know whether or not you did a compression test before you pulled the head, but that will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine.
Norm

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Yes, your block has been bored .030 oversize. The marks on the valves were likely made to keep track of what valve went where. Not really good practice to be banging on valves, but that's what some people do/did.

Your carbon deposits might look messy, but they're no big deal. With modern oils and fuels, carbon deposits are nothing to worry about... and nothing to waste a head gasket over.

[jiminbartow]

I use an original Ford script 2 part type lifter utilizing a lever action. A hook hangs from a manifold stud and a lever with a U on the end that fits under the spring. Jim Patrick

[Boaski]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I don't think you can see it in the pictures I posted but the valves also have a number stamped on them that can be seen if I hold the light at the right angle. That must not have been good enough as they added the center punch numbering system as well. I have records from the engine being rebuilt in 1963. I do not have any receipts from anything after that.

Your valves look very good. I wouldn't pull them unless the seats and under side of the valve heads look burnt. Just check the clearances to be sure they seating all the way should be around 12tho thousandths between the tappet and valve stem with adjustable lifters.
You should pull the spark plugs before cleaning the head and then clean them up and check the gap. 25 thousandths is a good clearance for the plugs.
I don't know whether or not you did a compression test before you pulled the head, but that will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine.
Norm

I can't see any evidence of the valves being burnt from the top. It is a shame that I didn't do a compression check before pulling the head. It does burn a little oil, but not enough to thinks it's time for a rebuild. I don't see anything disturbing in the cylinders. The only obvious cracks that I've found were by the front waterjacket and they were welded at some point in the past.

[Kerry]

A re-build back in the 60's could be possible of genuine Ford parts, using a little oil was normal as Ford never fitted oil rings, some after market suppliers did make an oil ring for the under wrist pin ring groove on cast pistons but they can wear faster as the bottom of the piston cops the full thrust.