Hard to push

[vping]

Until I get it running I need to push the T in and out of the garage for additional room. I noticed it's hard to push, like really hard. I jacked up 1 rear wheel to check brakes and I noticed the wheel moves easily. I can hear the driveshaft is engaged with the trans and of I move the tire, it sounds like gears turning. I know it's not in gear because when we dragged it out of the garage it was in for 25 years, I figured out how to put it in neutral.

Any advice from the forum that I can use to find out what's holding it up?

[RajoRacer]

If all is adjusted correctly, handbrake lever nearly vertical should be more or less neutral - wet clutch has no "real" neutral.

[jiminbartow]

Play with the emergency brake lever until you find the sweet spot where it will roll. If the emergency brake is fully engaged it will engage the rear brake pads and put the transmission in neutral. The sweet spot will put the transmission in neutral, but not engage the rear brake pads, so it can be pushed. Jim Patrick

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

If the car has sat for many years, the clutch will be "sticky" and will drag no matter how well your neutral is adjusted. If you're not going to work on the car yet for some time, consider buying some car moving dollies to at least put under the rear wheels.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-1 ... 67338.html

[vping]

Will the clutch start to loosen once I drive it?

I have dollies that I will start to use.

[John kuehn]

Once you get the engine started let it run for a while and then try to drive it. The warmer the engine is the oil will get thinner. If the clutch linkage is adjusted correctly and the transmission clutch spring is OK it should began to loosen things up. After you drive it let the engine idle some more to begin loosening things internally.

Question: have you changed the oil and put in some new oil such as 20 or 30 weight oil?
If you haven’t now is the time to do it.

[vping]

On my list. So far, I cleaned out the carb, and need to clean out gas tank / blow out the gas line.

Was doing some reading on which oil to use. Seems like a much debated topic.

[mtntee20]

Vince, BEFORE you try to roll the car, push the brake lever all the way forward so to engage the disc clutch in high gear. Let it set for several minutes. This will squeeze the oil OUT of the clutch discs so when you bring the brake lever back to neutral, the clutch discs move easier without the oil drag in them. This procedure will also help when starting the engine especially in colder weather when the oil is thicker due to the temperature.

There are some owners who leave the transmission in high whenever they park for an extended period for the same reason. I have found, putting the Warford transmission in neutral, starting the engine and letting it warm a few minutes, then shutting the engine off, putting the Warford back in gear, then restarting the engine, works very nicely. Yes, I have a Layne Warford that has a neutral. This procedure is, basically, the same as jacking one rear wheel off the ground. CHOCKS ARE ESSENTIAL.

Good Luck,

[Rata Road]

I had a similar issue with one of my T's.
Try placing the lever midway (which should be in neutral with hand brake off) and then turn the crank handle and see if the car moves toward you. This will confirm the cause of the friction.
If yes it does, I found a simple cure for this problem.

[TXGOAT2]

Gear noise heard when you move one rear wheel with the other one on the ground is probably the differential gears.

Check both rear wheels for parking brake drag.

If the clutch is dragging, one rear wheel off the ground may still turn easily due to the differential gears. With both rear wheels on the ground, the driveshaft will have to turn if the car moves and if the clutch is dragging for any reason, it will make pushing the car or cranking the engine difficult.

If the oil in the crankcase is old and of unknown quality, I would drain it out into a clean pan and let it drip overnight, then replace the drain plug and add 3 quarts of 5W20 oil and half a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. That may help a sticky clutch free up. Cranking the engine rapidly with the spark plugs out will help distribute the fresh oil. Starting it would be much better.

[Norman Kling]

The above information is helpful in keeping the neutral. parking with the lever forward and chock the wheels if it is parked in a slope. When you pull the lever into neutral without pulling back enough to engage the brake, try cranking the engine with no chock. If it rolls when you crank, your clutch is sticking. Also if you push the car and the engine turns, it is not in neutral. I find 10W30 works very well especially in cold weather. Sticking clutch disks inside the transmission can also cause a problem or the neutral bolt on the clutch lever at the side of the transmission is not engaged in the cam on the parking brake shaft can cause it to not go in neutral. If you have a Ruckstell or other auxiliary transmission which is in a lower range when you park, will also make the car harder to push in neutral.
Anyway, if you can find someone in your area who is more experienced with Model T's, maybe can help you.
Norm

[vping]

Problem solved. From high speed to neutral and to parking brake is about 2 clicks. 1 too many and the brake does not release. T rolls easily now

....and I changed the oil too.

....and cleaned the tank and line.

Just need to grab a battery this week

[Norman Kling]

Sounds like the low speed band might be too tight. It should be tight when the pedal is about 1 1/2 inch above floorboard. However if it slips when 1 1/2 inch, your low speed notch and cam could need to be replaced. See other posts on this subject.
Norm

[2nighthawks]

Norman-Not sure if this might help or not, but when I attempt to place the hand brake lever in "neutral", I don't worry about leaving the lever exactly vertical; I always leave the lever all the way forward during storage, and then when getting ready to position the lever in "neutral", I very slowly bring the lever up while watching the "high/low pedal", and move the lever ONLY while the pedal is moving forward, and make sure to stop moving the lever toward ONLY while the pedal is moving. As soon as the pedal stops moving, I stop moving the hand brake lever toward neutral, even if it is NOT quite up to the vertical position. I feel that this is the best you can do to make sure that besides the best possible "neutral", this is the best you can do to make sure the hand brake shoes are not dragging on the brake drums. FWIW,....harold

[2nighthawks]

....oops,....this was for Vincent, not Norman,.....sorry Norm,....harold.

[vping]

No worries. I figured it was for me.

[John kuehn]

Vincent
When you get your battery and hook it up do this BEFORE you start it.

Put your car in neutral. Then put your gas lever and spark lever all the way up. The engine won’t start with both levers all the way up.
BUT when you turn the engine over listen for each coil to see if it buzzing. When all the coils working the car will have a good chance to run OK when you adjust the spark and gas lever in the starting position.

In other words make sure the 4 coils are working before you really start it.
And of course others will have their opinions.

[vping]

Wish I could. Car is currently set up with a dizzy and I did want to hear the coils.

[John kuehn]

Sorry I missed that about having a distributor.I should have read it closer. Good luck starting the car. I have coils on my mind with T’s. More than a few T’s have a dizzy on them and are fine.