Ruckstell ? new to me

[colonelpowers]

I just brought home another T. This is getting to be a habit. Nice car with very few issues but it is my first time owning a car with a ruxtell. The previous owner couldn't tell me anything about it so I just wanted to ask what should I check on it before really driving the car. I think that it runs regular gear oil instead of 600 weight, doesn't it? What is the oil level supposed to be, same as a regular 22 differential?
Anything else to look at before hitting the road? I ordered the ruxtell book but it was backordered so thought I would check with the experts.

Thanks and God Bless

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I just brought home another T. This is getting to be a habit. Nice car with very few issues but it is my first time owning a car with a ruxtell. The previous owner couldn't tell me anything about it so I just wanted to ask what should I check on it before really driving the car. I think that it runs regular gear oil instead of 600 weight, doesn't it? What is the oil level supposed to be, same as a regular 22 differential?
Anything else to look at before hitting the road? I ordered the ruxtell book but it was backordered so thought I would check with the experts.

Thanks and God Bless

Joshua, there never really was a "600 weight" gear lube. It was '600W' which was often mistaken as 600 weight. I run 90-140 weight in all of my Ruckstells, -and have for years. I only fill the diff housing with enough lube that I can barely touch it when I insert my pinky down into the housing.

If you are down this way on a pretty day, we will get one of mine out and I'll let you drive it shifting the Ruckstell.

[JTT3]

You’ll get a lot of good suggestions most will be in the neighborhood of 80/140 synthetic. Here’s a link to a long thread including the advice to flush and add a bottom drain plug. Best John

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276574

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=6968

[A Whiteman]

Getting the book is the best first step. It is a mine of good advice and information.

Have a look here in the Vowell Art section of the Gallery for exploded diagrams of the Ruckstells: app.php/gallery/album/249 This will help familarise yourself with the bits and how they work, and will explain my comments below.

From a safety point of view you want to be sure the Ruckstell changes smoothly without any slop, so check each link in the shift levers and rods from one end to the other and the shiftlock mechanism internals. A 'sloppy' change is not good and must be repaired.

Next, depending on the shift lock (change mechanism - see the diagrams) there are parts that are prone to wear:

In earlier 'snub' changers the 'yoke' part P122 can have the square hole rounded (not that common) while the more likely wear is the tapered plunger end (part P117) which becomes rounded and does not hold properly in the P113 slider. This is a BIG deal. Also the spring P163 can lose strength and should be replaced. Chaffins can supply new ones.

On later 'long nose' ones the tapered end on the 'new' P122 'yoke' and/or the taper on the plunger P117B gets worn down. They need to have a good taper and the length needs to be checked, as they can get shortened by use (sorry I don't have measurements its a case of fit and check or just replace). Also the spring P163B also needs to be free and strong.
On the 'long nose' broken springs can mean the yoke is not firmly held in place and can move, only inspection will tell.
A cause of sloppy movement can be part P123 and/or the lever P98 getting rounded out on the square hole or by wear in the locking screw. Repairs needed depends on what you may find.

Should these parts be too worn the Ruckstell can get caught mid shift = no drive = no brakes either (this has happened to several of us here - can be hair raising!). Or (a common occurrence - more so than is healthy for drivers) the Ruckstell will simply pop out of gear into neutral under heavy load. Not good.

Some will say that Ruckstells don't have a neutral - that is true IF all the parts are in good working order and properly adjusted. If not, well lets just say that wear does allow the sliding gear (P146) to miss meshing with any gear = an unwelcome neutral.

If possible a change to a later long nose shift lock is a good idea, they have a better positive change throw.

It is a good idea if you suspect an issue or just want to check, to remove the shift lock from the axle and look it over. In a vice to hold it, the 'long nose' change should 'snap' and require a long handle to move it - not by hand alone. If by hand then you have a 'taper' problem! (this test won't work for a 'snub nose' as it doesn't have internal springs to hold it).

CLEAN - Perhaps a real issue if the car has been sitting for a while is that the plungers and springs get gummed up and don't move properly. A strip and clean of the shift lock may be all that is required!

ADJUST a contributing factor can be adjustment of the plunger in the 'long nose' shift lock. A simple adjustment to increase the spring pressure on the plunger is easy to do and may be all that is required.

There is nothing better than a strip down and check of all bearings and parts for wear.

If the strip, check and rebuild work sounds threatening then wait for the book. It will lead you through the process step by step and explains as its goes.

[Original Smith]

The first thing I would do is determine if your Ruckstell is correct for the year of your car. Check where the driveshaft roller bearing housing mates up to the rear end. That will tell you if it is correct for the year of your car. Don't forget there are big drums and small drums.

[colonelpowers]

Got everything else on the car serviced, greased,or oiled and just need to top of the Ruxtell in the morning before a test run. Regular old SAE 90-140,right? It seems like someone said that there are some brands/additives that can be damaging to the internal brass parts but I can't seem to find those comments. Just wanting to be sure that I do everything right since I haven't had a Ruxtell before.

God Bless

[A Whiteman]

Regular old SAE 90-140,right?

Correct.

It seems like someone said that there are some brands/additives that can be damaging to the internal brass parts

Also correct, it is best to get a 'Non-EP' oil (usually marked on the container) - that stands for 'non extreme pressure additives'. Those are the things that affect brass components in the diff or gearboxes. I don't think brand matters that much, as long as it is a good quality.
I am not sure how much brass is in a car Ruckstell, so it may not be an issue for you, but there is plenty in a TT truck one.

All the best and enjoy your run

cheers

[Norman Kling]

Something I didn't see posted above is the shifting of the Ruckstell. There is no synchronized shifting so you need to anticipate the speed of the engine after the shift in order to get a smooth shift. When shifting down from high to Ruckstell your engine will be going faster and revved up after the shift. So you pull down the gas and push lever back into the low position as you shift the engine will speed up so it makes a smooth shift. And when shifting to high, you will push the lever forward with the throttle closed so the engine will slow down as you shift. Then adjust the throttle to the speed you want the car to move.
Norm

[Mark Chaffin]

This is what we recommend.