how long should the threaded rivets be in the 1911 rear axle housing? Will 3/4 " work? I need to replace all of them inboard and outboard.
will these work?
1911 rear axle rivets
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Don ellis
Topic author - Posts: 380
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1911 rear axle rivets
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Ken Buhler
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Re: 1911 rear axle rivets
Don,
My understanding is that rivets should be straight shanked because the threads will dig into the bore and become loose.
Ken
My understanding is that rivets should be straight shanked because the threads will dig into the bore and become loose.
Ken
Work honestly
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Get the job done right
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Allan
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Re: 1911 rear axle rivets
Don, I have rebuilt a number of 11-14 rear axle housings using grade 5 bolts which have plain shank under the head enough to almost take up the thickness of the two housing components.
First I round off the heads of the bolts in a lathe to replicate the rvet heads. Then they are cut to the desired length. Next step is to cut a screwdriver slot in the threaded end so they can be held while the nuts are tensioned.
Two Loctite products are used in the assembly. Nut locker is used on the nuts. A non hardening red flange sealant is used on the two faces of the centre casting and the axle housing. This is red stuff in a tube, but I cannot access the number right now.
It is essential that the components are squeaky clean. Best thing is to have your machine shop hot tank them. If you want to save some stripping time and repainting the parts, a good spray down with lacquer thinners is a good second choice.
If you are not confident of the nuts staying in place, you can always spread the ends via the screwdriver slot.
The rear axle on my 1912 chocolate van was rebuilt this way in 1994, and after some 20000km is still oil tight.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
First I round off the heads of the bolts in a lathe to replicate the rvet heads. Then they are cut to the desired length. Next step is to cut a screwdriver slot in the threaded end so they can be held while the nuts are tensioned.
Two Loctite products are used in the assembly. Nut locker is used on the nuts. A non hardening red flange sealant is used on the two faces of the centre casting and the axle housing. This is red stuff in a tube, but I cannot access the number right now.
It is essential that the components are squeaky clean. Best thing is to have your machine shop hot tank them. If you want to save some stripping time and repainting the parts, a good spray down with lacquer thinners is a good second choice.
If you are not confident of the nuts staying in place, you can always spread the ends via the screwdriver slot.
The rear axle on my 1912 chocolate van was rebuilt this way in 1994, and after some 20000km is still oil tight.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
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RVA23T
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Re: 1911 rear axle rivets
Remove for clarity
Last edited by RVA23T on Wed Feb 28, 2024 10:18 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Allan
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Re: 1911 rear axle rivets
Here you go.
Allan from down under.
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jab35
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Re: 1911 rear axle rivets
Allan:
That's a quality and clever repair. Thanks for sharing, jb
That's a quality and clever repair. Thanks for sharing, jb