How to determine or make a Hyatt servicable

[TRDxB2]

I'm sure we all have saved some Hyatts, just in case. Also the new solid roller models seem less favorable.
There have been past discussions about it. So what's possible to repair & what needs to b within spec.
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https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/4 ... 1398982661
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/8 ... 1542497545
Sleeves
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/3 ... 1385275523
Solid roller Discussion
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/8 ... 1537480428
Specs for Rear Axle Bearing assembly Very detailed
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=23532
Drive shaft evaluation & rebuild rebuild
https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/4 ... 1396298000
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To start - here are the parts (courtesy of Steve). The end caps have cones in they to retain the rollers. Looks like rods can be made. Some say that just welding the rod ends (rollers in spec) & grinding the weld will work.

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[speedytinc]

Pretty much asked & answered.

I can add a bit.
I find that loose caged rollers wear cigar shaped because the roller cocks out of its intended parallel position to the axle.

Not a fan of prick punching to tighten. I have had much success tightening by re-peening most loose cages.
Those cages that dont take peening well, but have minimal roller wear, I have re-secured the cage pins by wire welding & of course grinding ends flat.
Usually the really loose caged bearings have more wear than I will accept.
I will save un-pitted & non flaking rollers if wear is .005" or less. Thats .010" possible slop. I will use with an over-sized sleeve.
New sleeves vary quite a bit in thickness between past & present sources. I select the amount of bearing wear so the bearing will push in by hand pressure, not by hammer.

[TRDxB2]

Pretty much asked & answered.

I can add a bit.
I find that loose caged rollers wear cigar shaped because the roller cocks out of its intended parallel position to the axle.

Not a fan of prick punching to tighten. I have had much success tightening by re-peening most loose cages.
Those cages that dont take peening well, but have minimal roller wear, I have re-secured the cage pins by wire welding & of course grinding ends flat.
Usually the really loose caged bearings have more wear than I will accept.
I will save un-pitted & non flaking rollers if wear is .005" or less. Thats .010" possible slop. I will use with an over-sized sleeve.
New sleeves vary quite a bit in thickness between past & present sources. I select the amount of bearing wear so the bearing will push in by hand pressure, not by hammer.

Just to confirm, a new roller spec is .500? Is that for both the axle & pinion rollers?

[speedytinc]

Pretty much asked & answered.

I can add a bit.
I find that loose caged rollers wear cigar shaped because the roller cocks out of its intended parallel position to the axle.

Not a fan of prick punching to tighten. I have had much success tightening by re-peening most loose cages.
Those cages that dont take peening well, but have minimal roller wear, I have re-secured the cage pins by wire welding & of course grinding ends flat.
Usually the really loose caged bearings have more wear than I will accept.
I will save un-pitted & non flaking rollers if wear is .005" or less. Thats .010" possible slop. I will use with an over-sized sleeve.
New sleeves vary quite a bit in thickness between past & present sources. I select the amount of bearing wear so the bearing will push in by hand pressure, not by hammer.

Just to confirm, a new roller spec is .500? Is that for both the axle & pinion rollers?

.500" for axle bearings. .562" for driveshaft.
There has been some discussion on minor variation allowance. (Ford mfg specs)
I do have a few NOS that do measure .500 & .562 respectively.
I have a few used axle bearings that still measure .500".