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Topic author
Dave_Kriegel
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Sun May 05, 2019 8:50 am
- First Name: David
- Last Name: Kriegel
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 1926
- Location: Indiana
- Board Member Since: 1999
Post
by Dave_Kriegel » Mon Jun 03, 2019 8:24 am
Well I have been working on a non starter 1917 for a month Zero compression, no spark Now with valve and ring job, new wiring, rebuilt coils still no start I have narrowed it down to a very weak visible spark when I lay the plugs on the block and rotate the cylinders into firing order . I have read on the forum years past that a weak spark visible on a plug OUTSIDE the block will result in no spark when the spark plug is chambered and under pressure. I am using modern F 11 plugs new, set at 032 I have strong coil noise New spark plug wires, The only thing I may think of since this is a non starter car is I used 12 gauge wire for both the 12 volt

battery ground and running up to the ignition switch Could this thin wire not carry enough amperage ?? Any ideas ?
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rickd
- Posts: 474
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:56 pm
- First Name: Rick
- Last Name: Duquette
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 Touring, 1914 Touring, 1925 Touring, 1927 PU, 1955 T Bird, 69 Shelby GT 350
- Location: Grand Forks, ND
- Board Member Since: 2015
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by rickd » Mon Jun 03, 2019 8:34 am
What kind of shape is your coil box and switch in? Maybe some carbon tracking or some other kind of resistance holding back a decent spark?
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Hal
- Posts: 200
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 12:08 pm
- First Name: Hal
- Last Name: Davis
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '22 TT Stake Bed, '18 Touring (Hers)
- Location: SE Georgia
- Board Member Since: 2005
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by Hal » Mon Jun 03, 2019 12:16 pm
Professionally rebuilt coils or .......?
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Scott_Conger
- Posts: 6523
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:18 am
- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919
- Location: not near anywhere, WY
- Board Member Since: 2005
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by Scott_Conger » Mon Jun 03, 2019 12:38 pm
Hal's question as well, plus, are your spark plug wires copper conductors soldered to their terminations, or are they modern carbon-filled wires?
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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It's Bill
- Posts: 279
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 6:41 pm
- First Name: Bill
- Last Name: Hoffer
- Location: Mars, PA
- Board Member Since: 2016
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by It's Bill » Tue Jun 04, 2019 7:37 am
I suspect the gap. My antiques do well with about a .022 gap. Might be worth a try. Hope this helps, and good luck! Cheers, Bill
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Charlie B in N.J.
- Posts: 751
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 7:40 am
- First Name: CHARLIE
- Last Name: BRANCA
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: "27 Tudor / "23 Touring
- Location: Brick N.J.
- Board Member Since: 2010
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by Charlie B in N.J. » Tue Jun 04, 2019 12:31 pm
Not sure about the wire size as it doesn't take much to fire the coils but, as mentioned earlier, "rebuilt coils" ? Done by who and were they properly set up on a HCCT or similar unit? If they weren't it's probably a big part of your spark problem. It simply MUST be done. No question. If they were done correctly run a larger size temporary wire to the coil box and check for a difference. Disconnect the coil box wire first though. A poor ground is another thing to check as in a clean timer. It's as bad as low voltage. I's also try a smaller plug gap. 0.30 for instance.
Forget everything you thought you knew.