Steering Shaft Bushings: 1 or 2?

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I know there's only supposed to be 1 bushing in the steering shaft support bracket. However, 2 will fit. Who has used 2 bushings? I believe I have in the past, but too long ago to remember. I can't think of a reason to not do it.

I ask because I'm replacing the bushing, (or bushings?), on my Touring right now. Apparently, .025/.030 is too much play

[Allan]

You might replace and ream a new one in the original position. With some wear on the shaft, that will give you the best fit. However you could then fit the second one and ream it to fit the unworn section on the shaft. That will give an even better fit.

Allan from down under.

[Humblej]

Earlier years use 2, later years use 1.

[Moxie26]

I agree with Humblej

[TXGOAT2]

I'd think 2 bushings would wear longer, all else being equal, and 2 bushings might give some slight damping effect at the steering shaft.
I's also think that 2 bushings, with grease supplied between them, would do a better job of retaining grease and of forcing old grease and dirt out of the assembly when new grease was added.

[Original Smith]

I disagree! The early cars use one long bushing. The late cars use two shorter bushings.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I disagree! The early cars use one long bushing. The late cars use two shorter bushings.

Larry,

The bushing I removed, and the bushing sold by Lang's, are both 1.25" long. There is room in the bracket for 2 of these. Do you consider the 1.25" bushing to be the long bushing, or the short bushing?

If it helps any, the car is a late 1925. The bushing I removed is the style with a 7/8" OD.

[speedytinc]

Be aware, the parts vendors sold these bushings made of sintered brass.
The bushing Langs shows appears to be sintered.
These bushings need to be solid brass/bronze as were originally.
Sintered brass doesn't hold up well to the pounding that bushing receives.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Be aware, the parts vendors sold these bushings made of sintered brass.
The bushing Langs shows appears to be sintered.
These bushings need to be solid brass/bronze as were originally.
Sintered brass doesn't hold up well to the pounding that bushing receives.

I have to admit, I've never been a fan of sintered bronze/oilite bushings. I find them sometimes very difficult to machine in order to adjust for a final fit.

[TXGOAT2]

Some makers warn against reaming sintered/Oilite bushings.

I'd think using two Oilite bushings rather than one would be a good idea. Having 2 bushings and twice the area would probably offset any weakness in the bushing itself.

[TRDxB2]

Well..... trying to answer the question using Parts Book information from various years...
The "steering post bracket with busing" in the 1915 references 3 different ones but only one busing part (picture looks like a long bushing)
Then in the 1917 only one "steering post bracket w bushing" is noted as well as just and bushing & is shown as two pieces
Later
the 1924 reflects the same as the 1917 & indicates verbally & in the diagram two bushings
AND now in the 1925 Parts Book three "steering post bracket w bushing" are shown and two bushings are stated by year range
Four different steering brackets are reference per 3539, 3539-B, R3539-C, 3539-D. 3539 looks like it uses 1 long bushing, while 3539-D uses 1 short one. 3539-C & B depends on ?

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Great information Frank! I believe I have the 1 pc. of 3435B Bushing along with the 3539-B bracket. That makes sense and is what I expected. Now it's just about do I want to stuff an extra bushing in there. Not sure there's a lot of benefit to it. It's had 1 bushing for the last 40+ years that I know of and only now needs replacement, (well, okay... it needed replacing years ago, but I put it off till now ). If I can stretch out the new one for another 40 years, I'll have to replace it when I'm 99. I hope I'll be up to it yet by then .

[TXGOAT2]

I'd put in 2. No downside to it.

[Allan]

Jerry, you may find a ridge on the shaft, below where it ran in the now worn bushing. It can be machined off, but that may compromise the length of the taper for the pitman arm. I would dress it down with a file just enough for the new bush to go on over it. Then,depending on the interference fit of the bush in the bracket, you may still have to ream it just a bit once fitted. That way you will have the best compromise fit. I'd still fit the second bush if the bracket is machined to accept it. No loss, all gain.

Allan from down under.

[DanTreace]

The bushing I removed, and the bushing sold by Lang's, are both 1.25" long. There is room in the bracket for 2 of these. Do you consider the 1.25" bushing to be the long bushing, or the short bushing?

If it helps any, the car is a late 1925. The bushing I removed is the style with a 7/8" OD.

Your ‘25 will use only one, with two crammed there the grease hole is compromised. The bushing can only be removed from below as a step is in the upper bracket.

This post gives more info:


viewtopic.php?t=31394

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

The bushing I removed, and the bushing sold by Lang's, are both 1.25" long. There is room in the bracket for 2 of these. Do you consider the 1.25" bushing to be the long bushing, or the short bushing?

If it helps any, the car is a late 1925. The bushing I removed is the style with a 7/8" OD.

Your ‘25 will use only one, with two crammed there the grease hole is compromised. The bushing can only be removed from below as a step is in the upper bracket.

This post gives more info:


viewtopic.php?t=31394

Thanks Dan, (and all others too).

Looking at the thread you posted the link to, I see there was some trouble removing the old bushing. For mine, I threaded in a pipe tap. With the tap still in place, I inserted a brass rod in the other end and easily drove the bushing out. I suppose a second bushing could be removed the same way.

As to compromising the grease hole, a second bushing would not block it off, but it would make it more difficult to get grease all the way to the bottom bushing, versus just pumping it out the top, past the felt "seal". I'll probably just go with 1 bushing. If my column shaft was more worn, I might have gone with 2, just to take advantage of the unworn upper portion of the shaft.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Jerry, you may find a ridge on the shaft, below where it ran in the now worn bushing. It can be machined off, but that may compromise the length of the taper for the pitman arm. I would dress it down with a file just enough for the new bush to go on over it. Then, depending on the interference fit of the bush in the bracket, you may still have to ream it just a bit once fitted. That way you will have the best compromise fit. I'd still fit the second bush if the bracket is machined to accept it. No loss, all gain.

Allan from down under.

Allan,

Thanks! My steering shaft does have a little wear, maybe .006", in the worn area only. If I can pass the bushing over the unworn tight spot, I believe I'll have a pretty decent fit. At least way better than the .030"+ clearance that I had.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Well, as it turns out, once I really cleaned up the bracket, I noticed that the middle section, where a 2nd bushing would go, is relieved. So if I were to push in a bushing there, it would fall into the void and be near impossible to remove!

The lesson here is: ONE BUSHING ONLY!