If you didn't like me undercoating fenders, you're really not gonna like this idea.

[signsup]

Cleaning up some demountable rims prior to installing tubes, flaps and tires and don't see a down side to spraying the underside of the rims with a under coating rattle can or bed liner rattle can to prevent or reduce not only corrosion to the rim, but to provide a little more slip to the tube and flap during assembly. I will probably mask off the bead lip so that the tire does not slip.
I might do one and see how I like the outcome.

[John kuehn]

This is nothing new about cleaning up the inside of demountable rims. Model T folks have been doing it for years when using good but rusty rims. Sometimes the rims can look good from the outside but when taking off the tires and tubes it’s another story especially when the tires have been on the rims for years and years. They can be heavily pitted so bad that they get to thin. Putting on some type of coating is OK but make sure you get the rust off the best you can.

[Luxford]

The rims were originally zinc plated because of the rust problem but years of use removes the zinc. The rims are probably the most needed part of a vehicle that should be coated to stop rust. When it rains or when your wheels get wet water will enter inside between the tire and rim and remain there especially if the vehicle is put away wet after a run. This means water can be present for a long time and the metal will go rusty.

No one is going to dismount a tire just to dry out the water, so a wheel may go for years while it still holds air before the tire comes off the rim.
Here is a photo of the amount of rust that was inside a wheel, ( this wheel was a brand new wheel) made in the 1980's which was put on a T driven for about 15 years before it had a flat. When dismounted the pile of rust particles and paint flakes came out, the rim was painted with primer and 2 coats of black enamel prior to the tire being put on. One reason a rust band or liner is a good idea, if the rust forms having a barrier between the rim and the tube helps keep the rust away from rubbing on the tube!!

[Steve Jelf]

If your rims are good enough you don't need flaps. Ford didn't use them and neither do I. Ford used new rims, and I use rims that are good enough to not need flaps. I make sure my rims are good before I have them galvanized (demountable) or send them to Stutzman (non-demountable).

[John.Zibell]

If your rims are good enough you don't need flaps. Ford didn't use them and neither do I. Ford used new rims, and I use rims that are good enough to not need flaps. I make sure my rims are good before I have them galvanized (demountable) or send them to Stutzman (non-demountable).

Steve, that may be true for clincher rims. On split rims, I sure want flaps to prevent any chafing at the joint.

[signsup]

So, speaking of flaps...I am familiar with and am using the thick harder rubber flaps over my tubes on these 21" demountable rims. I have used flaps for years on my WWII jeep two piece wheels to prevent pinching during assembly. I received two "original" flaps that feel like felt covered canvas and they barely fit inside the 4.00 tires on my T. I recently read something about clincher liners and wonder if these canvas straps are actually intended for that application. They are a long straight strap with two holes at either end to slip over the valve stem and keep in place.
Are these straps flaps or liners?

[Steve Jelf]

I recently read something about clincher liners and wonder if these canvas straps are actually intended for that application. They are a long straight strap with two holes at either end to slip over the valve stem and keep in place.
Are these straps flaps or liners?

They are liners. They don't have to be expensive. Allan cuts his out of used tubes.

Yes, my comments above refer to clinchers. I have no experience with split rims.