Seeping radiator

[MR.T.46962]

Greetings! My radiator has recently started seeping from the bottom. I hope I do not have to replace as it is a "seep" and not a leak, What do recommend as a repair vs. replacement? I have had many opinions on this, from my friends,who own Model T,s. Egg whites, modern additives, etc.Thanx,T.

[speedytinc]

If its a seam you can get to with the radiator off, solder it.
If its a hard to get to, internal tube(s) leak, a waterglass treatment will seal.

[George House]

Terry,.. Why wouldn’t a product like Bar’s Leaks or Alumiseal work? I guess it depends on your definition of ‘leaks’ and ‘seeps’. I probably wouldn’t use them on leaks but would try it on a seeping radiator.

[Rich P. Bingham]

John, kindly give us a bit more on the use of “waterglass” (sodium silicate, aka egg-keep). Quantity ? How to apply ?
Would be most appreciated. I, too, have a “seep” !
Thank you !

[speedytinc]

John, kindly give us a bit more on the use of “waterglass” (sodium silicate, aka egg-keep). Quantity ? How to apply ?
Would be most appreciated. I, too, have a “seep” !
Thank you !

I believe it is sodium silicate. Pint bottle sold @ auto parts stores. Waterglass was the name brand for the first time I used such a product. I believe there are other brands also that are sodium silicate based.
You flush the radiator. Put the stuff in with clean water. Run to circulate.
Drain completely. Let dry completely. Be careful not to get it on paint. It dries like a thin ceramic coating.
I have had success using it twice. Once for some weepy radiator tubes & once for a Rajo cylinder head combustion chamber leak.
Hope this helps.

[John Codman]

To me, anything other then a solder repair or a replacement radiator is a temporary repair. Just my two cents.

[ElGranadaT]

I agree, anything other than solder is a temporary repair, but in a pinch I have successfully used JB Weld on occasion and it holds well sometimes for years... If you are not comfortable soldering it yourself, a local radiator shop should take care of it... you might also think about getting it rodded out while there, if you're having overheating problems.

Best of luck

[speedytinc]

To me, anything other then a solder repair or a replacement radiator is a temporary repair. Just my two cents.

I tempered my post with weeping in a place I couldnt easily get to with soldering.
My temporary weep fix is going on 20+ years. Just sayin.

[speedytinc]

To me, anything other then a solder repair or a replacement radiator is a temporary repair. Just my two cents.

I would normally agree with that sentiment.
I tempered my post with weeping in a place I couldnt easily get to with soldering.
My temporary weep fix is going on 20+ years. Just sayin.

[Steve Jelf]

Repair or replace? It depends on what's wrong. A little weep in an accessible location should be an easy fix if it's the only problem. If the radiator no longer cools as it should, even without the leak, that presents three choices. 1 Gamble your money on another 100-yeqr-old radiator being good (Why isn't it on a car anymore?). 2 Buy new. 3. Recore. If I can find a capable shop, I go with #3 to save a bundle of dough.

[speedytinc]

Repair or replace? It depends on what's wrong. A little weep in an accessible location should be an easy fix if it's the only problem. If the radiator no longer cools as it should, even without the leak, that presents three choices. 1 Gamble your money on another 100-yeqr-old radiator being good (Why isn't it on a car anymore?). 2 Buy new. 3. Recore. If I can find a capable shop, I go with #3 to save a bundle of dough.

..Or #4......Fix it yourself.
Here's the story......
I was starting to have a few leaks on my first T's radiator.(older Brass works) Over a period of time I used various stop leaks & home remedies.
No more leak, but started to run hotter, getting quite hot during summer touring. I decided I would order a new one.
An old T guru (John Hale)suggested I fix it myself. Thats crazy?! Well wait, I have nothing to lose. Was going to replace it anyway. I did resolder a split tank on my 57 ford once.
So I removed the bottom tank & found 2/3's of the tubes clogged with various stop leak products & rust flakes.
I cut some strips of varying width & thickness anodized sheet stock to rod the clogged tubes. Rodded & washed out the impediments & soldered the lower tank back on. Tested & solder repaired a few tubes that sprung leaks in the process. Used waterglass for the deeper weeping tubes.
That was 35 or so years ago. That radiator is still in service & cooling well.
I learned, I do my best work with nothing to lose.

[Allan]

Rodding out a T radiator core needs to be done VERY gently. If you have to get agro with a blockage, chances are you will damage that particular tube and make a leak. Don't ask how i learned this, 5 or 6 times over. The real bummer is the top tank then needs to be dis-assembled so the damaged tube can be sealed at each end.

Allan from down under.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Can you locate the exact spot where the seepage is occurring? Tubes or tank?

[signsup]

I'm surprised the cooling system in a T provides enough pressure to force the rubbery Barsleak type products into a leak and hold it in place. But if others have used is successfuly, then it obviously does. So, I don't see a down side to trying that first. If it does not work, or if the weeping comes back down the road, then pull the radiator and take it to the next level of repair.
I hve a local radiator shop that works on all my T and WWII jeep radiators and know the correct pressures and recores or solder sup as need any leaks. You should be able to find an old school shop in your area.
Worse case scenario is that the products don't work, the repair shop doesn't work and you need a new radiator. That's exactly what your options are now, so not much risk for decent reward, IMO.

[TWrenn]

Greetings! My radiator has recently started seeping from the bottom. I hope I do not have to replace as it is a "seep" and not a leak, What do recommend as a repair vs. replacement? I have had many opinions on this, from my friends,who own Model T,s. Egg whites, modern additives, etc.Thanx,T.

Try this stuff after you've emptied the radiator and made SURE it's DRY. Also wipe the area super clean with lacquer thinner. Then apply 2 or 3 coats with plenty of cure time of course. This study is very thin and does set up taxky very fast. I've stopped top tank seeps with it witj great success. This is fantastic stuff for multiple uses.

[RVA23T]

K-seal worked on the coolant leak at the rear coolant passage on my engine due to an over used head gasket during the shortage scare. Since replaced the head gasket. Any vehicle I have worked on with K-seal in it has no globs of goo anywhere during dissambely (usually do to head gasket failure) nor when flushing radiator.
Used frequently on chrysler minivans to stop the common plastic tank to radiator gasket leaks.

[MR.T.46962]

Thanx for suggestions! T.