- IMG_0260.jpeg (38.12 KiB) Viewed 912 times
Rear cam bushing reamer?
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Dan Hatch
Topic author - Posts: 5009
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:31 pm
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Hatch
- Location: Alabama
Rear cam bushing reamer?
Anyone else got one of these? I am looking for a new reamer for it. Number 2 MT 3/4” Short reamer. May see about making some if there is a market. Email me at address in pictures. Thanks Dan
-
RGould1910
- Posts: 1128
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2019 8:16 am
- First Name: Richard
- Last Name: Gould
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 touring, 1912 roadster , 1927 roadster
- Location: Folsom, CA
Re: Rear cam bushing reamer?
Dan I have two of these tools. One has the right reamer, the other came without it . I purchased the right reamer fot it on eBay but it was too long. I was going to have it gound down to the right length but never got around to it.
Im thinking it shouldnt be hard to replicate what I did. Imho they are a valuable tool. Both mine index off the cam bearing holes in the block. Another manufacturer Stevens, I believe, indexes off the bored holes in the cam bearings.
Im thinking it shouldnt be hard to replicate what I did. Imho they are a valuable tool. Both mine index off the cam bearing holes in the block. Another manufacturer Stevens, I believe, indexes off the bored holes in the cam bearings.
-
BE_ZERO_BE
- Posts: 628
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:27 pm
- First Name: BOB
- Last Name: CASCISA
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 TOURING
- Location: POULSBO, WA
Re: Rear cam bushing reamer?
Dan,
I had one with a worn reamer.
I could not find a MT2 replacement reamer.
I bought a regular reamer (3/4" I think).
I used a standard MT2 dead center and faced off the point.
I drilled and machined an interference hole in the MT2 center and pressed in the reamer.
I don't remember if I had to turn down the shank on the reamer.
Works fine.
I had one with a worn reamer.
I could not find a MT2 replacement reamer.
I bought a regular reamer (3/4" I think).
I used a standard MT2 dead center and faced off the point.
I drilled and machined an interference hole in the MT2 center and pressed in the reamer.
I don't remember if I had to turn down the shank on the reamer.
Works fine.
Respectfully Submitted,
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
Be_Zero_Be
I drive a Model T ... Microseconds don't matter
For every Absolute Model T Fact there are at least three exceptions.
-
Jerry VanOoteghem
- Posts: 4082
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:06 pm
- First Name: Jerry
- Last Name: Van
- Location: S.E. Michigan
Re: Rear cam bushing reamer?
If I'm not mistaken, that would be an end cutting reamer. Any other reamer will simply follow the existing hole and not be of much use to line ream with. The end cutting nature of this reamer will help to cut its own path, correcting for any misalignment.
My thought would be to get a standard reamer, cut it to the length you need, then take it to a cutter grinding shop and have the end sharpened appropriately.
My thought would be to get a standard reamer, cut it to the length you need, then take it to a cutter grinding shop and have the end sharpened appropriately.
-
RajoRacer
- Posts: 5171
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:18 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Tomaso
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Touring, 1919 Centerdoor, 1924 TT C-Cab Express, 1925 Racer
- Location: Longbranch, WA
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: Rear cam bushing reamer?
My master machinist buddy made me one many years ago - great tool !
- Attachments
-
-
Allan
- Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Rear cam bushing reamer?
Those tools should work very well aligning the bushing hole perfectly. I wonder if align reaming the cast iron bush was originally done in the factory.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
-
Dan Hatch
Topic author - Posts: 5009
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 7:31 pm
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Hatch
- Location: Alabama
Re: Rear cam bushing reamer?
Allan: If you blow up my last picture and look at the number check the number.
It is a 27-Z number. Also there is a T 400 number. Don’t know if this a ford tool but it has a z number. Dan
It is a 27-Z number. Also there is a T 400 number. Don’t know if this a ford tool but it has a z number. Dan
-
Dan McEachern
- Posts: 1400
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:08 am
- First Name: DAN
- Last Name: MCEACHERN
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: too many. '14 touring, 2 depot hacks, 2 speedsters
- Location: ALAMEDA,CA,USA
Re: Rear cam bushing reamer?
Many of the original tools for this use a shell reamer head on a arbor that pilots on the front and center cam bores. MSC lists an "economy" 3/4" shell reamer for around $45.00. This way, no need to modify the shank on a chucking reamer and you can make the arbor larger diameter right up to the shell reamer to keep things much more rigid. A properly ground reamer cuts using the chamfered end of the flutes, not the OD of the reamer, so its important to make the arbor as stiff as possible.
-
Allan
- Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Rear cam bushing reamer?
I had noticed the numbers on your tool Dan, and the Z number means it likely is a Ford workshop tool. I just wondered if a new cast bush in a newly machined block would require aligned reaming. It seems counter-intuitve to add the operation to the engine build. It is not as if there is a great load on the bush, nor great speed in the rotating camshaft.
Rarely have I seen the need to replace the rear cam bearing. When I have done so it has been with a bronze replacement, which I sometimes have reamed with an adjustable reamer. I could fashion a bar with a hole drilled in the end to take the pilot on the reamer, but have not seen the need as yet. Perhaps I need to rethink this.
Allan from down under.
Rarely have I seen the need to replace the rear cam bearing. When I have done so it has been with a bronze replacement, which I sometimes have reamed with an adjustable reamer. I could fashion a bar with a hole drilled in the end to take the pilot on the reamer, but have not seen the need as yet. Perhaps I need to rethink this.
Allan from down under.