⅜ Rivet for 27 touring frame

[Brent Mize]

Hi,
I’m looking for a source for a ⅜”x1.75” solid steel rivet for my 27 touring top. This is for the rear most joint in the one man top and I need to replace the steam bent corners. The clinched dimension is 1.25” The wooden corner formers are riveted in place. My top has never been apart so this looks to be original. The rivets in the catalog are not right in size and too thin for the job. The rivet is ⅜ and needs to be 1.75” to work according to my calculations. If you have a source I’d be very appreciative. I can’t seem to find anything but 1 ½” long which may have to work. The photo shown has the head drilled off. These rivets are only used on the top corner formers on the rear bow. The other three bows do not need them.
Thanks for your help!
Brent

[TXGOAT2]

Could some be made from mild steel rod ?

[varmint]

It would be easier to cut one from a 3/8" x 2-1/2" stainless hex screw, grinding the head down, cutting off the threads.

[Allan]

Use an ordinary mild steel hex bolt with enough plain shank. Shape the head to suit and peen over when done. If there is any wear in the holes, step up to a 10mm bolt that is a little oversize in a 3/8" hole.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

[micshotrodgarage]

Hi Brent, I have tubs of steel rivets of varied sizes, I will look and see what might may work for your top iron. Mike

[John Codman]

Both Lang's and Snyder's list top bow rivets, but neither catalog lists the size.

[Greg_Lewis]

If the above ideas don't pan out, you might check with Hanson Rivet in the Los Angeles area:
https://www.hansonrivet.com/

[Wayne Sheldon]

Add me to the list of those making special size rivets from long shank bolts. Done it many times. How hard a steel bolt is best may depend upon what it is holding together and the stresses under use involved. Just some food for thought.
To shape the head? After cutting the shank to the desired length, chuck the shank in a hand held electric drill to spin it, and slowly dress it to shape on a bench grinder. Go slow because you will be surprised how much the hex head will bounce in spite of the drill and spinning. Of course, one could begin with some sort of a round head bolt, but most of those have some sort of hole or slot in the head, or carriage bolts that would require carefully cutting away the square part (which is risky due to potential cutting resulting in a fracture start right where you do not want one).

[Brent Mize]

Thanks all for your input.
I was able to buy a mild steel ⅜ bolt and turn down the head.
It worked great!