Front spring worn out?

[FundyTides]

I have a 1927 Touring with original springs. I replaced shackles and bushings several years ago but I have always had a problem accessing the lift-top oilers at the lower ends of the shackles. They are so close to the spring perch end of the shackle that I can't lift the top of the oilers enough to oil them. The problem is more severe on the front spring but also exists to some degree on the rear spring. Is this because my spring is sagged enough to cause this. Is there a measurement that I can take to determine the condition of the spring?

[speedytinc]

My roadster PU oilers, & my 23, Now that I think of it are tight getting oil into the cups. However with the openings toward the center of the spring, there is enough room to open just enough to get the end of the oil can in. Be sure the oilers were installed all the way in.
26-7 springs are near flat on purpose originally to lower the car.
I doubt you have the problem you think you have.

[FundyTides]

Thanks John. That would be good news since I only have to access the oilers about once a year. One of the oilers is missing so no problem getting oil into that one. However, it would be a challange to install a new oiler to replace a misisng one. Maybe I don't need to. Just stay off dirt roads

[TXGOAT2]

The shackles and other chassis parts need regular oiling no matter where you drive. It's best to oil them every couple of hundred miles and every time you wash the car or drive in rain. Using the oilers is best, but putting oil on each end of the bushings beats nothing. Dry, stiff springs make for a rough ride and needless wear and strain on the entire car.

[speedytinc]

You can lift the frame & get the front axle to drop, giving you access as the shackles rotate up.
You can assist the process with a big screwdriver or pry bar.
You can install the missing oilers.
A bit of oil on both sides of the spring bushing is good also as TXGOAT mentioned.

[George House]

It wouldn’t hurt to place a 2x4 on a floor jack and direct it under the oil drain nut to lift the front of the T and make the main spring oil hole more accessible. I’ve done this for years and nothing is hurt. It’s very quick and efficient too.

[DanTreace]

Lifting frame does help in placing new oil cups.

A trick I use when older springs have the space real tight......I trim the end of the oil cup so it sits a bit lower in the leaf hole.

Place the oil cups so that the doors face toward the center of the chassis.

Then drive in the shorty oiler with help of a flat blade screwdriver and punch to press in place.

Gives enough space to lift with oil can spout and oil away.

[FundyTides]

Thanks guys for all of the suggestions. Looks like I don't need to replace the spring, just use some of the methods described here and continue with my once a year servicing. Any of you going to Hershey? When is the MTFCA gathering at their site this year?

[TXGOAT2]

Unless you only drive it once a year, it needs serviced more often than that. Model Ts do not have oil or grease seals on many critical parts, and they will not retain lubricant when sitting idle.

[Kerry]

I don't think there is anything wrong with the spring, I haven't come across springs that have oilers in later Ts, USA and Canadian that I have owned. Parts books only list 4 oilers per car for the shackles 1917/27 which would be for each perch, I'm sure because there is a hole in the spring, many have tried to fit them and usually without success.

[TXGOAT2]

My '26-27 car has the oilers on the front spring. This car has one leaf deleted to further lower ride height. Access to the oilers is limited, but sufficient to use them if they are installed correctly, with the lid hinges outboard.