Bushing Installation Gone Wrong

[ryanf1023]

Hello all,

I received a few parts kits for my front end rebuild. My bushings for my spindle arms went in with ease, using a bench vise.

Unfortunately, my spring perch bushings were not the case.

As it stands, I have one bushing about two thirds in, and it's going to have to come out and be replaced. I'm gobsmacked at the difficulty compared to the spindle arms. I had trouble with driving it in straight, and after using an obscene amount of force, heat, and WD-40, I finally gave up. For good measure, I put my shackle in the half installed bushing to confirm it's useless.

Am I missing something with the spring perches? Did I just get my usual bout of beginner's luck on the spindle arms and learned here how it actually goes?

I initially tried the ready rod method, but there was absolutely no way I could get it started without immediately going cockeyed.

So, in addition to me needing to order a new set of shackle/spring perch bushings, how do forum users accomplish the job of spring perch bushing installation?

Thanks,

Ryan

[TRDxB2]

I use the Steve Jelf method for perches, springs, tie rod, etc . Bolt nuts & washers to size. works great

[Mark Gregush]

When you order the new bushings, get the brass ones. Better to wear the bushings out then the shackle's. Before you install the new ones, take a round file and clean any burrs etc out. Also add a small bevel around the edge going in first to help guide it in.

[Mark Gregush]

When you order the new bushings, get the brass ones. Better to wear the bushings out then the shackle's. Before you install the new ones, take a round file and clean any burrs etc out. Also add a small bevel around the edge going in first to help guide it in.

[Mike Silbert]

If the bushings do not want to line up and start then maybe you need to add a slight taper to the bushing or hole.
There can also be burrs or undersized holes (rust) sometimes.
If it does not start into the hole, it will dig in and almost never go in.
Mike

[Dan Hatch]

Stevens “Force out tool.” Here is picture

IMG_0179.jpeg (78.67 KiB) Viewed 451 times

[Allan]

Hardened split steel bushings were cheap junk in the T days, and nothing has changed. Use the bronze ones. They are actually round. They are easily reamed to fit the shackles too. Your oiler needs to be pressed in up to the shoulder on the oiler body. Then you should have enough clearance.

Allan from down under.

[John kuehn]

You probably had a bushing that was slightly to large. I had one that way and tapered the end of the bushing just a bit and it started evenly. Agree that I pressed it in with my vise.

[jab35]

Beating them in with a hammer, even with a 'driving tool' never worked for me. As Steve Jelf says, "It ain't rocket surgery", use his method, simple cheap, effective, and inexpensive. Check the OD of bushing and ID of the part, I like them the same or at most half a thousandth interference. Be sure the bore is free of burrs and rust, if needed, gently ream but don't enlarge the bore more then the OD of bushing. Use a 'high pressure' lube like wheelbearing grease NOT WD-40, very slightly taper the entering end of the bushing, and go slow initial alignment is essential. Good luck.

[Original Smith]

Why not try a large C clamp, and maybe some oil?

[Craig Leach]

Personally I have never used the brass bushing so I may not be of any help, I have not had a lot of trouble installing them. I use the
All-thread & washers method unless the parts are loose & can be placed in the press. If they don't want to start by hand or a little tap
I throw them in the lathe & take a little off one end to start them straight. Make sure the spring eye or perch is clean of rust & burs
Throwing the bushings in the freezer is never a bad idea (That is why you told the wife you needed a fridge in the garage wasn't it) I also
use that nasty Never-Seize stuff, that is one reason they make it. On both parts & the threads & washers on the All-Thread.
Craig.